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mightyohm |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,277 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Seattle, WA Member No.: 162 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
I want to invest in a nice set of crimpers for uninsulated crimp terminals. I want something better than the $9.99 radio shack style. Ratcheting would be nice if it makes a better crimp. Does anyone here have any suggestions? I don't want to spend over $100.
This is the kind I don't want: (IMG:http://www.sunshinesolar.co.uk/ccp51/media/images/product_detail/crimper200.jpg) Sorry I couldn't find a better pic. |
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lapuwali |
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Not another one! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743 ![]() ![]() |
Because soldered connections are more brittle than crimped connections, and are not as reliable in a high-vibration environment. Soldered connections work great in electronics, but on loose wiring that flops around, vibrates, gets tugged on, etc, soldering really sucks. Again, this is what the OEM stuff does, and it's clearly good for 30 years of abuse. I've seen soldered connections fail in a few months of use on a car. The number of combinations in a car harness really isn't that large. I have 18, 14, and 10g wire, with matching crimp-on connectors for each size. The ONLY wire you need outside of this is the one wire from the battery to the starter, which has to be 4 or 6g. The 10g is only used from the battery to the headlight area (all front lights) because of the long run. You could also use 2 14g wires instead and skip the 10g wire altogether. The 14 and 18 are used everywhere else, with most of the car is wired with 18g. The connectors also can accept and provide a good crimp on 2-3 sizes of wire, provided you have a good crimp tool. |
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