Just Another Trip To Home Depot,, Until: Screeeech, Bang; shortened 914 Options

[Spoke]

On the way to Home Depot last night, 1/2 mile from my house,
waiting to turn left on Rt309 outside of Allentown,
I heard a loud screech behind me, looked in the rear view mirror
in time to see headlights disappear behind my car - then BANG.

The 1990 Mazda faired much better than the 914.

From what I can see without looking underneath the car
or opening the trunk (which won't open):

Trunk lid folded
Rear bumper crumpled
Pass Taillight gone
Rear Valence creased
Fender pushed into rear tire, car moves under its own power but not far
Engine seems to have a miss now
One cylinder is very loud (header or head damaged?)
Pass and Driver door gaps now different
- Pass door gap almost nothing at the top, seems larger at the bottom
- Driver door gap even top to bottom but seems larger now

[dmenche914]

Ouch, them photos look bad. I agree with some of the things said, but being called boarderline criminal, and illegal in my advice, well all I can say is back it up with facts. Also if someone suggests someone delete their post, then goes tell that poster that it has been copied as a quote so you can't delete, well what can you do? it makes no sense to me. Then there are the folks that defend this type of crap with one word posts like "moron", or comments like "you ruined the post". Guess there are all kinds out there.


At anyrate Old Car Price Guide, is found at many magazine shops. The last issue I have is from August 2000 (Guess that is when my 914 got rear ended much like yours) It is published six times a year by Krause Publications Inc. Iola, WI The circulation phone number is (was) 715 445-3775 I just never subscribed, just bought single copies.

For Aug 2000 the 914 is listed as: (I'll give the 1973 2.0 l example, they have a listing for each year and engine combo)

condition #1 = $18,000, #2 = $12,600, #3 = $7,200, #4 = $3,600, #5 = $2,150, and condition #6 = $700

It also details what the condition #'ers mean, #6 being a parts car,and #1 being an excellent 95 point show car. it goes into more detail.

I have used this with great sucsess in battling bad adjusters/insurance companies that want to minimize the payout.

Just don't let on that the parts are valuable to you, that way you will get the lowest price to buy back the car after it is totalled.

So obtain a current issue of Old Car Price Guide, and Xerox the page with your year and engine configuration Also add any upgrade(s) you have (and price to have them installed at local labour rate) Also have second and third sources that back up your claims, excellence has been mentioned, it is good, and find some want ads too. The more ammo you have the better you will be off

You are owed money to help you in the search for a new 914 as with older cars, the search can be time consuming, not like a two year old honda civic which can be found at about any used car lot, without rust and the wear and tear that can be on a 30+ year old car. Also consider sales tax, say they value the car at $6000 and pay you $6000, you find a good 914 for $6000, but consider you have to pay sales tax in some states to register the car, sales tax in calinazifornia is about 8% so you'll need near $500 more (total $6500) to replace the car, not $6000. Be sure to include that also.

Document the time you spend documenting the value of the car, they owe you for your time also.

You lost the car, and your time, itemize the cost of any price guides you buy, and milage you drive to go buy them, add it all up. It gives you a better negotiating edge.

besure any pains are checked out by a doctor, pain can manifest itself one or two days later, and then last many years.

Good luck, may you come out fully compensated for this crash.