The $5k Engine, It's real. Options

[McMark]

The 125 HP, $5000 Type IV is now available! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)

Jake has chosen me to help make this engine a reality. This engine is a tried and true combo that Jake has developed over the years and all head work and assembly is done by me. Jake has created a special package for us that is not available on his website. I get the full package from him, and then I have your heads rebuilt and bolt it all together. This setup will produce about 125 hp with carbs or tunable EFI and 110 hp with stock D-Jet or L-Jet*.

This engine is a 2056cc longblock with a special cam, full balance job and fully rebuilt heads will all new parts (seats, valves, guides, etc). This is not your run of the mill engine rebuild and this is not a "discount" engine. No corners are cut to reduce the price. Jake and I have worked out a deal that allows me to offer a QUALITY engine for only $5000. The balance job is Jake's "Improved Balance", the head parts are modified and tweaked for longevity, the lifters are proven to not go flat, and best of all the combo is proven to make power. Making power with the Type IV is all in the combo, as Jake has proven again and again. The engine comes to you already broken in and ready for you to bolt up your carbs or FI. You can use your stock heater boxes, although a header system will give you a 7% gain, and a Tangerine header system will get you a 15% boost.

There is a $750 refundable core charge for a 2.0 core engine, or the following pieces:
* Flywheel
* 2.0 crank
* 2.0 rods
* Cooling fan with NO broken fins
* 1.7 style rocker arms (13 mm adjuster nut)

In addition, you will need to supply:
* 1.8 or 2.0 heads that will be rebuilt.
Condition is irrelevant and un-rebuilt heads are preferred. If you have heads that have already been "rebuilt" those heads will either be rebuilt again by me or if you insist on not having them rebuilt there will be no warranty on the engine. Cracks are acceptable and will be repaired during the rebuild process.
* Case (any 914 case will work just fine)
* Taco Plate + O-Ring
* Oil Filter Console
* Oil Bypass Springs/Pistons
* Drain Plug
* Distributor Drive Gear + Special Washer
* Under Cylinder Engine Tin
* Oil Cooler
* Oil Cooler Thick Washers
* Fan Mount + Bolts
* Oil Baffle + Seals (OPTIONAL)
* Oil Pressure Switch OR Pressure Sender
* Oil Filler + Bail
* Head Nuts + Washers
* Through Bolts
* Oil Pickup
* Sump Cover
* Endplay Shims
* Distributor Clamp
* Valve Covers + Bails
* Rocker Shafts
* Rocker Shaft Mounts

These engines are a longblock only, no tin, no ignition, no exhaust and no installation. Everything on the engine is freshened/rebuilt, including the following:
* Rebuilt and balanced set of crank and rods
* Fully balanced rotating assembly that has been balance one step above what's normally available in his kits (extra value above buying a kit directly from Jake)
* New pistons, rings, cylinders
* Fully rebuilt heads with all new parts that are modified by Jake (new special seats, new special guides, new valves, new springs, new retainers, new keepers, any cracks repaired)
* New hardware kit to replace worn out nuts and bolts
* New cam and Jake's custom lifters that work
* Custom cut ChroMoly pushrods
* New clutch disk and pressure plate
* Case galley plugs tapped for threaded inserts

These engines come with a 6-month, 6k mile limited warranty. I will, of course, be standing behind my work, as always. Note that installing ignition and induction can be tricky and a poorly tuned engine can kill a perfectly good rebuild.

These engines will take roughly 3-4 months to build from order to delivery depending on shipping times and how quickly I can receive the kits from Jake.

These kits will not require an external oil cooler in most climates, but is very dependent on how well the engine is tuned. If you install one of my motors that runs hot, my first question will be the state of tune.

Installation is available for additional cost, PM me for details.




For those of you who don't have 2.0 engine core parts, I'm also offering a 1911cc longblock designed by Jake that makes 90 hp with carbs*. These engines go for $4500 which will save you $1250 off the 2056cc engine since you don't need the cores. This engine is comparable to a stock 2.0 and can use the stock 2.0 D-Jet.

If you have any questions about either of these engines, feel free to ask me. Don't both asking Jake about these engines because he'll send you right back to me. These engines are fully designed by Jake, but all responsibility lies with me.



*Horsepower numbers are quoted using a Mallory distributor, 2.0 heads and SSI 2.0 heater boxes.

[jetboy]

the engine offer from Mark is for people that do not want to build the motor or feel they cannot build it, even thou with enough instruction anyone should be able to build it yet they choose not to....nothing wrong with letting someone else deal with the assembly and procuring all the parts needed........

Thats almost directly my point. If Mark is decent enough builder to make the 2056, then (according to the aircooled site listing the 2317 build as EASY) it would seem like an $3000 on top of the purchase of a 2270 kit at about $4700 and the 2316 kit @ $4800(brings it to about 8000). The 2056 kit is about $3200 (labor added for complete build $1800), so, for about an additional $1500 in parts and an additional $3200 for complete build i would pay that.

I understand that Mark is doing a service for those of us who probably dont want to tackle an engine build and i certainly thank him for that. I was just curious if he would be willing to put together a larger package for those of us who would like 150+hp that one of the 2270 or 2317 kits would provide. And since the website said the kit goes together easily, then i didnt think think it was an issue until Jake said that only experienced ppl should put this kit together (this was after i asked if Mark had thought about it).

My other point was, if these larger kits are so difficult to just assemble (i can only assume the machine work is included with the kit) then if anything failed, would you need to be a master mechanic to repair? Specialty parts and price for maintaining would then even out between the supposedly more expensive /6.

I understand the price difference about a conversion, but, once its done you dont have to do it again. You can even start out with a 2.4 /6 (even in T trim is 140hp) and find one for about $2500-3000. Possible full rebuild (which would probably change to E, S, or even 2.5) might be around 8000. So, for around 9-11,000 bucks you have a reliable engine with power and that you can probably work on and not be considered a 3yr old with a handgrenade.

Ok, was a long post, i just wanted to know if Mark was able to look at a bigger kit for some who would like an option for more power without going /6 (and not having to pay 12,000+ whatever MIGHT be added later plus a estimated 10month wait.) That was all. If Jake says Mark cant put the 2317 together for about $3200, then i guess the /6 rebuild costs might be closer than one thinks.