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rjames |
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,974 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
They guy at the local auto body shop said that metal ready wasn't necessary (probably because he was out of the stuff) before using POR15 as long as I did a good job of grinding all of the rust out.
This doesn't sound correct as I'll never be able to grind and clean up ALL of the rust particles... However, I've seen the instructions for the Metal Ready stuff, and it sounds like a big mess. Is there another product that's less messier that will do the same thing (assuming I need it)? Rubbing alcohol? (at least that stuff will evaporate on it's own). Also, I've got areas where I won't be able to wash the metal ready stuff out of if I apply it (center tunnel comes to mind). I can't just spray Metal Ready in there because it's an acid and eventually will destroy the metal- I have to be able to wash the stuff out. So do I just try and coat with POR15 using some sort of 'rag-on-a-pole' method?? New pics of the longs, rust etc: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...&hl=metal+ready Since I have a couple of small areas to weld later, can I grind of the POR15 easily (or easily enough) when the time comes to weld those areas? (ie: holes due to rust) |
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Katmanken |
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You haven't seen me if anybody asks... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
I remove all loose rust, clean the surface well and then use ospho to initially treat the rust. Unprotected, the rust will start again.
Next you have to cover the unprotected metal with something. Everybody seems to like POR 15 but it didn't pass my test of 2 coats on a steel strip, dunk the sucker into salty water for 2 weeks. I wanted something better. With thatin mind, I opened my long, used a wire brush and a sand blaster to remove rust, applied ospho, and then sprayed a REELLLY thick bunch of layers of cold galvanize paint in there. The cold galvanize is 95% ground zinc (sacrificial anode) and 5% binder. Salt test showed it is porous soooooo...... Kenny sealed off it with a buncha layers of cavity wax (like cosmoline with rust inhibitors). A British car mag ran rust tests and the Dinotrol cavity waxes provided the absolute best rust protection bar none, sealed scrapes and bumps, and actually protected the metal on the other side and about an inch away from the coating... SO I got neutralized rust, sacrificial zinc and then this cavity wax... Bet I don't have to go in there again.... Ken |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th June 2024 - 01:13 PM |
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