Very good weber site, check this out Options

[MattR]

I found this weber site a while ago and just got finished reading it again. Its just really well written and has LOTS of good information. It is geared toward 912/356 motors, but the tuning information is universal.

Anyway, I would reccomend it to anyone with webers and anyone who wants to learn about those buckets with holes we call carbs (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

http://home.earthlink.net/~simeons/weber.htm

[rhodyguy]

first, this is the worst task in the world with the engine compartment lid on. i trimmed the ends of the hinges so instead of 2 holes there are 2 slots. you just loosen the 2 bracket bolts a bit, and the lid will slide right off. this makes putting it back on an easy one person task.

i've done it a few times and never quite explained it clearly (i think) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) . what i had found was, with the idle adjust screws both set commonly, and then screwing the threaded rods in, i would wind up fighting one or the other. folks with carbs really need to get tomlinson's weber book. cb performance has it as do most vw shops/parts houses. their initial seup proceedure is clearer and more comprehensive than the link provided in the thread(imho). first, one has to decide how they want to approach the air bypass screws. fully closed or turned 1/2 off the bottom(as per tomlinson). one rod would push the other carb open or vise vera. so, eliminate one of the bind points. with the hex bar return spring attached, i back the pass side idle ajust screw off it's stop. the drivers side is now controling the idle speed. start the car. place the Unisyn on the the front venturi on the dr side. the engine pulses may make the needle functuate quite a bit. turn the idle speed up enough to calm the needle down to a steady reading. note the reading on the Unisyn, and switch to the same venturi on the pass side carb. the reading will prob be lower or higher. then adjust the threaded rod to get the same reading you got the dr side. when you're doing this the idle may fall off and the needle will start dancing. again, just turn the idle back up. tighten the jam nuts on the pass side carb rod, and recheck both sides. stick with one rod. don't go back and forth. turn the idle back down to 900-950rpm using the drivers side, turn the pass side idle adjust screw back in until it just makes contact. just for drill check the flow on all 4 venturies. get it hot and tackle the idle/air mixture screws. i hope this makes sense. i'll prob have to post it, read it, and edit it a bit.

k