decreasing 914 weight Options

[ModPR3]

tried running some searches on this but didnt find what i needed. how can i trim some weight off the 914. all i can come up with is:

fiberglass hood, trunk, 916 front and rear bumber and fender flares. how much do you think these changes will make and does anyone any other ideas for taking weight off.

[brant]

James,

your right I'm over reacting again.
buying light weight parts isn't rocket science.


I agree with the fixed window comments and lexan.
it scratches EASILY... I wouldn't put wipers on it. In fact your not supposed to wash it without a special plastic cleaner and special rags.. so it would be better used in fixed windows, like the rear window. but then that brings up a new problem in that it probably won't fit the seal and then you might have a water leak.. etc... etc..

I'd concentrate any weight savings on comfort items.
insulation tar
lighter components to replace heavier (steering wheel, aluminum crossmember, wheels, seats)

and to answer your question about being on track
most drivers ed clubs will let you on track without full safety gear. Most wheel to wheel race organizations will not.

SCCA autox will no doubt allow all of your fiberglass modifications, but will probably bump you into a modified class.

everyone says to read the rules first for exactly this reason. when I build my first 914 at age 15years, we had a neighbor who was a nationally known formula vee engine builder. He built my motor for cost. I thought I was so cool. only problem is that he put a cam into the motor for me.

a year couple of years later I started doing drivers education through PCA. found out that my "cam" bumped me into a high class. we had classes 1 through 16 and my cam bumped me into class 14 even though it really only gave me about 5-10hp max. My local club would have put my non cammed car into class 2 instead of 14.

So I started doing events and was absolutely blown away.

here I was in a full street car with full heat, defrost and all... going against cars with at least 100 more HP than me, and tires at least twice as wide, with chassis that weighed at least 500lbs less.

needless to say I was blown away.

it was ok for about 2 years because of the learning curve and just learning basic skills, but after about 2 years you want to start putting up a good showing and being competetive.

so I had to start over with a new motor and building to a particular set of rules.

my new car is the same thing.
I had to carefully pick my rules and build an entire car only to those rules...

I'm going over board.
you can always unbolt fiberglass.
I just recommend reading the rules to everyone, because once you have 4K into your body and paint, it won't be too fun to have to put on your old hoods in order to jump down a class.

I think Joe just learned this lesson in the last 12 months too.

the best financial advice I can give regarding cars and learning about track driving, is to keep the car in a "stock" class for at least 2 years. Focus all of your time and money on the safety equiptment and driving skill. Don't do anything that will bump you out of the class that car will fall into as it is. Your skills will grow AMAZINGLY as a beginner because your on the steep end of the bell curve. you'd be surprised how much difference the driver can make.

then after a couple of years experience you will know what you want to do with the car and what all of the rules do or don't allow.

at that point you can invest your money once (instead of twice) or even sell the car for NO loss and buy one that is already in a class you want.

focus on things that are legal. suspension things, and modifications that don't make the car unuseable.

brant