Fiberglass body parts, how far to go with my 6 conversion Options

[billd]

I'm moving the oil cooler on the front of my 914-6 conversion and started a dangerous train of thought that is likely to keep my car on jack stands for months longer and empty my wallet (even emptier than it already is).

Rather than cut a notch in my existing steel bumper and valance I thought, why not buy a fiberglass 916 bumper (or a 914GT bumper and valence). That would save a few pounds.

While I'm at it, I could also get some fiberglass flares, fiberglass front and rear deck lids, and a fiberglass rear bumper.

I hope you folks can help me decide how far to go by answering a few questions:

1. How much weight is saved by replacing the steel bumpers with fiberglass?

2. If I go for flares, do you recommend 7 front/9 rear or 9 front/11 rear?

3. How much more weight can be saved by going to fiberglass deck lids, etc?

4. I assume that I give up all of the protection of the steel bumpers if I go FG. Right?

For reference, I'm buildling a 3.2L short stroke engine for this car with twin-plug heads, 9.5:1 compression, and Megasquirt fuel injection. It should be over 250hp.

[grantsfo]

QUOTE (brant @ Apr 6 2006, 07:37 PM)

QUOTE (billd @ Apr 6 2006, 04:57 PM) 1.  How much weight is saved by replacing the steel bumpers with fiberglass? 3.  How much more weight can be saved by going to fiberglass deck lids, etc? I think you would find the weight savings somewhat disappointing.. and I don't know what your own personal $/lb ratio is... but this train of thought will cost significant dollars for limited lbs... I'm going to venture a guess -front bumper savings 11lbs -rear bumper another 11lbs -front hood 35lbs rear hood another 30lbs so I'm guessing a weight savings of approximately 87lbs. but then you will offset that with heavier running gear... now look at what that 87lbs is costing. front bumper 175 rear bumper 175 front hood 400 rear hood 400 so about $1150 remember fiberglass is a pain to fit and finish.. so if you want to include paint work you should add about 2500 to that figure. you have to figure out your own acceptable dollar/lb ratio. without the cost of running gear and without factoring its extra weight.. your at around $41.95/lb. thats a pretty high ratio may or may not be within your own personal comfort zone. it would have to be a race car and not a street car for me to swallow that. I'm all for light weight... but it doesn't make sense for a street car. on the other hand if you really are building a race car then ditch the stereo, heat, side windows, upholstery, head lights and go for it! brant

Every little bit helps and it can be done for half the price quoted.