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GrnEyedLdy |
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FEAR ME! ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10 Joined: 2-December 05 From: Hershey, PA Member No.: 5,223 ![]() |
Sorry, Noel was still logged on....and I can't delete this for some reason
Ok, how? I now understand what Ed was saying about cutting an access hole in the fire wall. What a PITA. I would pull the vacc advance, plug it and rev to 6K. When I would adjust the dizzy it would run worse or better then worse (over the spectrum; bad-good-bad), but it would not move the timing visually. I have a couple of questions: 1. Do I need to adjust the timing to the RS cams that I had installed? 2. What is that value? 3. Anyone want to come down and do it for me? |
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LvSteveH |
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#2
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I put the Poor in Porsche ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,080 Joined: 22-April 03 From: Las Vegas, Nevada Member No.: 600 ![]() |
You have to establish "top dead center" for cylinder #1 in order to measure 30 degrees before top dead center at "X" RPM (usually full advance by 4000). A timing light with adjustable advance is a huge help here. If the engine is out of the car, you can find TDC on 1, and then measure out 30 degrees and add the mark, but it's tough in the car, so the adjustable light is great if you have to work off a TDC mark.
If you can find the mark on the crank pulley, and line it up as best you can with the fan housing notch, then verify that #1 is at the top of it's stroke, and the rotor is indeed pointed to plug #1, you can put a dab of whiteout on the flywheel in the notch at the top rear of the engine. You can then use that mark to time it using the aforementioned adjustable light (set the dial to 30 degrees, rev the engine to 3000+ rpm, and adjust as needed until the mark lines up with the case parting line. |
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