Jack points |
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Jack points |
bosurf |
Jun 16 2006, 11:00 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 13-June 06 From: Emmett, Idaho Member No.: 6,219 |
Hey Guys i finally got under my project, and discovered i am missing driver sides rear jack point, it looks like it ripped out, what's weird is that it isn't rusty underneath. Is it easy to weld in??? In the meantime where can I introduce a jackstand on that side that won't crunch vitals?? I am going to get sucked into this real easy I can tell already cause these cars are the *&%$!! No WCC for me this year but next year is In my sights. What goes on there?? Everyone go on drives and swap meet/Car show type gig? Help Me I AM INFLICTED!! ARE YOU!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
DAVE |
GWN7 |
Jun 17 2006, 05:21 AM
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#2
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King of Road Trips Group: Members Posts: 6,280 Joined: 31-December 02 From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Member No.: 56 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Using the engine or trans to jack on can cause stress cracks in the trans ears. Better to use the engine mounting bar.
There was another thread that mentioned that the donuts might not have been intended as lifting points, but as a production position point as the cars made their way thu the factory and after looking at how thin the metal is at that point on the car I'm taking apart right now I tend to believe that. Personaly I use the engine bar and trailing arm for the back and A arm pick up points for the front. Your longs are the strongest part of the car. If you run a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 the lenght of the long and lift on that you will distribute the weight evenly for that side of the car. It will also make sure that the car (& gaps) stays even when welding on it. |
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