My V8 resurrection is taking MUCH longer than..., ...I planned but what else is new? Options

[neo914-6]

Brad and crew got my 20+ year old Jaide conversion resurrected a couple of years ago but I couldn't leave well enough alone. A fellow V8 converter sold me his built 400hp engine before Christmas and I thought I could get it installed by the April's WCC05 by merely replacing the clutch and rebuilding the old Carter carb. The KEP clutch turned into a fiasco so I decided to buy an all new Renegade kit (less the engine and tranny mounts) besides I already had their great radiator. Bill P gave me some v-belt parts since he was going serpentine and Renegade gave me a nice deal on the w/p for supporting them over the years. Well I come to find this is not a week-end bolt-in so here are my woes and triumphs…

V8 Gurus..., Edelbrock Manifold and Head miss-match
More V8 questions for the gurus..., It's been over 15 years..
Just like "Rides" hot host, designer, and, a team of 40 to work on my car...
Help V8 Gurus! Engine removal..., ...not clearing the axles? V8 topic: Anyone know what header baffles..., ...are used for?
V8 Topic: Help!, Harmonic Balancer not fitting...
Which is better: Renegade or KEP clutch, (or kevlar vs.organic)...
Renegade V8 TOPIC: Shifter?, How did you lengthen it?
GM harmonic balancer differences..., V8 topic
More V8 conversion questions..., ...the rebuild continues
Where to mount a Holley Elect Fuel pump?, in a V8 conversion...
mounting the HEI distributor
"simple" HEI wiring is not so simple to me
V8 topic: front mounted electric fuel pump wiring, ...where to tap 12V?
How do you replace the two shift coupler bushings?, ...just drive the shaft out, is there a pin on it?

[Crazyhippy]

QUOTE (Terryst1 @ Jan 1 2006, 05:55 PM)

Hi Felix: I was cruising the site and wanted to offer some suggestions based on my experience. 4 years ago, I met Scottie at PorscheFest and was BITTEN to do a 914 conversion car. It is done and has been running for about 2 years: 500HP 383, 930 trans, rollcage, big Willwood brakes, full suspension mods. It is a HOOT to out-drag Corvettes on the straights and terrorize them in the corners. I started with with idea of going to Scottie, but quickly learned that he was not a reliable source. I don't trust him and he knows it! Suggestions: -The first thing is to GET RID of Scotties cheap plastic 90s in the cooling system. They were NEVER designed to work in an automotive application and when I pulled them from a friends car, found that the threaded part had COLLAPSED from heat and tightening pressure. On my car I chased around until I found BRASS parts that will cost about $12 ea, but will last. -If you are getting help from Brad "all914.com", HE IS THE EXPERT and is absolutely honest! Follow his suggestions. -The RH engine cross-bar is JUNK and it is easy to see that they BEND with the car sitting dead in the driveway. I made my own out of 2" X 2" and made it a structural part of the car. Your engine mount looks good and should do the job for your application. -Go for the t-stat housing as already suggested that allows the neck to rotate to any angle. It has 2 parts a base plate and a neck free to rotate. If not Summit, they are cheap on e-bay. -With 400 HP, you may be OK on the cooling side. However, it you have troubles keeping the car cool, I would recommend going 1-1/4" with ALL cooling hoses. My bud is a graduate mechanical engineer and taught me that most efficient cooling occurs when the water flows at the HIGHEST RATE. This is science, don't listen to Scottie back-yard nonsense. Question: How goes Chris Julian's car? Has he fixed the huge oiling problem he had a while back when he was down south here for the annual 914 gathering. BTW: smoothing driving (especially shifting) as you did in you slalom video should keep that 901 trans living a good while. It seems that they will take a 400 HP engine (actually the issue is TORQUE) if driven carefully. Best of luck, Terry

HUH???

I appologise in advance for the impending highjack of your thread, but miss information, and blatant lies should not be given the oportunity to propigate (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)

- The "Plastic" fittings were designed by a Major Automotive Manufactur, they are made of the same material as the intake manifold (which has coolant runnning through it) on the Chevy LS1. The threads on yours stripped because they are pipe threads (tapered) and you are not smart enough to stop torquing on the fitting when it's tight. I have personally torqued a hose clamp onto the fittings while hot from boiling water, and witnessed no observable defflection.
Nothing wrong w/ using brass fittings, but be sure they aren't necked down inside, which will kill the flow. And dont over tighten them, or you will be bitching about the aluminum mounts not being strong enough (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

- All914.com does not exist. Brad is a fairly active member of this board. Great guy, no argument. He is THE guy to talk to for set-up, suspension stuff etc. Last i heard, he is not in the conversion buisness however. It's kinda like asking your dentist to take a look at your broken hand... Better than most, but he will refer you to an expert.

- Bull (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/stromberg.gif) The RH mount has over twice the torsional ridgity of the factory mount. If you want to make a heavier one... more power to you, but dont try to blow smoke over it.

- The RH mount works just fine w/ the RH Water pump inlet, the problems arise when people try to use their own motor mount bar. The rotating inlet is a good solution.

- There is a guarantee behind the "backyard nonsense" It is Guaranteed to work. According to your friend with no real world experiance, you should also remove the thermostat, as the water will be flowing faster, but it is well documented that Chevy small blocks overheat without a thermostat (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) The Chevy Motor must have never met your friend (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/chairfall.gif)

In conclusion, if you have a problem w/ Scott, that's fine, just dont try to make up defficancies with his product to cover up your own agenda (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

[plymouth37]

[/quote]
HUH???

I appologise in advance for the impending highjack of your thread, but miss information, and blatant lies should not be given the oportunity to propigate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

- The "Plastic" fittings were designed by a Major Automotive Manufactur, they are made of the same material as the intake manifold (which has coolant runnning through it) on the Chevy LS1. The threads on yours stripped because they are pipe threads (tapered) and you are not smart enough to stop torquing on the fitting when it's tight. I have personally torqued a hose clamp onto the fittings while hot from boiling water, and witnessed no observable defflection.
Nothing wrong w/ using brass fittings, but be sure they aren't necked down inside, which will kill the flow. And dont over tighten them, or you will be bitching about the aluminum mounts not being strong enough (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

- All914.com does not exist. Brad is a fairly active member of this board. Great guy, no argument. He is THE guy to talk to for set-up, suspension stuff etc. Last i heard, he is not in the conversion buisness however. It's kinda like asking your dentist to take a look at your broken hand... Better than most, but he will refer you to an expert.

- Bull (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) The RH mount has over twice the torsional ridgity of the factory mount. If you want to make a heavier one... more power to you, but dont try to blow smoke over it.

- The RH mount works just fine w/ the RH Water pump inlet, the problems arise when people try to use their own motor mount bar. The rotating inlet is a good solution.

- There is a guarantee behind the "backyard nonsense" It is Guaranteed to work. According to your friend with no real world experiance, you should also remove the thermostat, as the water will be flowing faster, but it is well documented that Chevy small blocks overheat without a thermostat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) The Chevy Motor must have never met your friend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif)

In conclusion, if you have a problem w/ Scott, that's fine, just dont try to make up defficancies with his product to cover up your own agenda (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
[/quote]
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I have installed dozens of these kits and never had any of the problems mentioned above. P.S. if you can't get that hose to make a corner why don't you just install an aluminum elbow to make the turn?

[neo914-6]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I have installed dozens of these kits and never had any of the problems mentioned above. P.S. if you can't get that hose to make a corner why don't you just install an aluminum elbow to make the turn?

Dana,

That was BJ's response to Terry who has a 500hp track 914, not your typical conversion or builder. I appreciate your experience but suspect most conversions are done maybe once or twice in a lifetime by people of various mechanical abilities. I replaced my old Jaide kit with RH because I believe (still) that it is currently the best on the market. I emailed and phoned Scott and Mike but there are limits to that form of communication. I still believe better visual documenation is needed...

The w/p hose was solved, I replaced the Jaide with a RH engine bar to use the RH outlet and elbow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The belt interference on top of the shifter coupling and barely clearing the top of the engine bar is still a problem. Some suggest it's the '70 chassis shift location at the firewall. I plan to extend the bar inside the tunned and use a stock bar from the firewall to the transaxle. Any suggestions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)