#269 Rust - Is it too far gone? |
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#269 Rust - Is it too far gone? |
mr914 |
Oct 10 2003, 02:08 PM
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#21
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914 Hillbilly Group: Members Posts: 576 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Lincoln NE Member No.: 131 Region Association: None |
2013 note...
Lesson 1- before attempting this at home, get the alignment checked on a frame machine. I built custom door/chassis reinforcement bars before going on the rotisserie. Assuming that the PO had repaired the longitudinals correctly. After 12 years, the car finally landed on the jack stands. As the original Dorris were thoroughly rusted out, I had replacement doors. Bolted the replacement doors on, and the don't fit. Bolted original doors on and they do with funky gaps.... Put the reinforcement bars on and the fit like I had built them.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) looked at how the front strut upper plates were located. One has never moved based on factory tar, the other one had been moved 1/4-3/8" Damn, why didn't I catch that years ago... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Did test assemble, top, doors gaskets. Car is square but the longs appear to be bowed, fortunately evenly. Put the reinforcement bars on and they fit like I had built them.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Based on the targa top fitment, it Looks like the car is bowed 1/8-3/16". With the replacement doors, the front gap is good and even, the rear is 3/8" high at the body line (stack of 5 US Quarters). Hung the original doors, drivers door is spot on, rusted at the bottom and evidence of a cut and re weld between the hinges. Damn-it, unbolted the doors, put them on the shelf in the basement and ignored them for 10+ years About .040 in shims and the new doors are on and the gap varies by about 1/8" More of that story, at the end of the post Back to the original post... Well, I have the car mostly stripped and up on a rotiserie. When I got the car I saw the rust on the Sail panel, cowl, edges of the rear fenders and 2 small holes in the floor board. Now that I have stripped it, It's much worse. It's a '70 914-6 #269 What do you think? CAUTION: SCROLLING DOWN MAY MAKE YOU SICK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) or DRINK HEAVILY (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Attached image(s) |
mr914 |
Oct 16 2003, 10:28 AM
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#22
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914 Hillbilly Group: Members Posts: 576 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Lincoln NE Member No.: 131 Region Association: None |
Money? Ha. I'm just like the rest of you. Never enough. This is the $300 per month budget plan.
Time? Ha. What time. I'm lucky to put 20 hours a month into it. I have been accumulating equipment and tools for 25 years. I have made some custom cuts from some donor cars heading to the scrap yard. It just keeps turning into more and more work..... The plan? What plan? 1) make templates out of acetate sheets to cut out repair metal 2) figure out how to bend the proper radius for the longitudinals. 2a) Bend and fab replacement metal. 3) repair longitudinal (front portions) first 4) repair smaller areas as time allows. 5) Ignore during DEC-FEB. Consider moving to different house with BIGGER Garage. 6) Fab Passenger Area in front of floor pan 7) Fab box for fuel lines - I'm planning (at least at this time) to use bulkhead fittings and steel braid lines. 8) Find custom cut for Master Cylinder area 9) Repair Driver side in front of Floor pan 10) Install Floor Pans. 11-999) Repair rest of car. I'm thinking this is a 3 year project. More photos of the horror soon. |
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