2013 note...

Lesson 1- before attempting this at home, get the alignment checked on a frame machine. I built custom door/chassis reinforcement bars before going on the rotisserie. Assuming that the PO had repaired the longitudinals correctly.

After 12 years, the car finally landed on the jack stands. As the original Dorris were thoroughly rusted out, I had replacement doors. Bolted the replacement doors on, and the don't fit. Bolted original doors on and they do with funky gaps....

Put the reinforcement bars on and the fit like I had built them.. looked at how the front strut upper plates were located. One has never moved based on factory tar, the other one had been moved 1/4-3/8"

Damn, why didn't I catch that years ago...

Did test assemble, top, doors gaskets. Car is square but the longs appear to be bowed, fortunately evenly.

Put the reinforcement bars on and they fit like I had built them..

Based on the targa top fitment, it Looks like the car is bowed 1/8-3/16".

With the replacement doors, the front gap is good and even, the rear is 3/8" high at the body line (stack of 5 US Quarters).

Hung the original doors, drivers door is spot on, rusted at the bottom and evidence of a cut and re weld between the hinges. Damn-it, unbolted the doors, put them on the shelf in the basement and ignored them for 10+ years

About .040 in shims and the new doors are on and the gap varies by about 1/8"


More of that story, at the end of the post

Back to the original post...

Well, I have the car mostly stripped and up on a rotiserie.

When I got the car I saw the rust on the Sail panel, cowl, edges of the rear fenders and 2 small holes in the floor board.

Now that I have stripped it, It's much worse.

It's a '70 914-6 #269

What do you think?

CAUTION: SCROLLING DOWN MAY MAKE YOU SICK or DRINK HEAVILY

Under the gas tank

More under the fuel tank

What's left on the pass side to attach the floor pan to... view 1

I think its a 9146 and some good 4cyl sheet metal should be utilized for the repairs.

It appears your semi setup to take this on.. jump in.


B

What's left on the pass side to attach the floor pan to... view 2

What's left on the pass side to attach the floor pan to... view 3

What's left on the pass side to attach the floor pan to... view 4

What's left on the pass side to attach the floor pan to... view 5

Doesn't look that bad too me for a six. How are the longs?

Geoff

Inside front fender 1

Lower portion of front inner fender

Battery box area

More battery box

I think you 'really' have to love the 914's to tackle this project. But I have seen worse..

I have another 9146 tub down the street from me for 1000$ (complete roller) that is a tad better than this one. The floorpans are more solid.



B

Damn.. the one area that is solid.

This is a salt infested northern car... no doubt about it.

Sat in a field with snow after being driven for years in the ice and snow.


B

I've got most of the parts and some cutouts from donor 4's.

The kicker is the area between (and including) the master cylinder mount to the passenger foot well.

Everything I've looked at for donors is trashed there.

First time I've ever seen rust in the cowl area.


The longitudinals are basicly sold. Someone else did a good job of stiching in some repairs. There is some portions of the lower longitudinals that are crappy.

Not in this state.

Matter of fact.. I think I still have Jenny's left over from her wreck. It might still be good.

Just dont ask me to ship it this year. I cant get the parts out that I have already cut.


B

This year????

I'm in Michigan, This is probbably the last weekend to do much before it's time to put on the parka.....

I think I'll blast some more undercoating off and primer seal the car for the winter.


BTW: I made my own rotiserie

I agree with the salt.

It appears that the car was zbarted in the early 70's after it started to rust.

I'm convinced most of the floor pan rust was becuase the PO had the wrong size tires on, causing the undercoating to be rubbed off of the inner fenderwell.

Then being hidden by the foam block. The rust did its thing.

Some off the local 914 guys have known of this car for years.

One suggested that most of the problem was because the car sat in a unheated garage on concrete for years.

Needless to say, it's a complete Rust-or-ation.

More photos to come

Why not just retub it. you can find a good tub that is the same year. there just a few things that are diferent from a 4
John

Are you and George Hussey related ??

Ranks right up there with all the DZ302 Z28's that where never built from the factory.


B

On second thought, buy brads. You will save so much time and money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought a tub from la la land to redo my 916/6
It got hit hard in the front. It was just better to start with a better tub
John

I just see a lot of "crap" floating around when it comes to these cars. Anything I can do to stop it now and in the future.. I will.


I'm not a fan of swapping VIN's.. can you tell ??


B

Retubbing a car is ONLY OK if you tell people you did that.
I have seen to many asshole out there Lie cheat about there cars. When my car is done There will be a book of pictures to go with it.
John

But if I re tub it. It would not be original.

The major problem is in the front floor pan area to under the gas tank.

The sail panel on the pass side won't be that bad. Or at least much less of a nightmare than the front part.

Both trunks are in great shape!

The other option is to drop the 6 into my '71 4cyl and ignore the 6 carcass for a couple of years. The 71 already has the stiffening kit, M struts etc etc etc....

I've repaired all of those areas with new sheetmetal before (except for an entire floor), but a donor car would make it go quicker.
Definitely worth saving IMO.

Mike Galloway (Mike's 914's) may have some donor sheet metal or could do a top-notch job of the welding over the winter, and would charge you Canadian funds. Get a primed tub back in the spring! He's near Toronto 905-922-8987.

Dave

Um ..I guess the questions are: what is more importent, that it is "Original" ,
or that your wallet has not been pillaged and you can DRIVE your teener

I second that...
For someone in the northeast, who may want work done, Mike is a great guy.

With the Canadian dollar you will be paying around .60 cents on the US dollar.
But he would make a deal on the total (or part) job that you want done.

He hasn't updated his web page in ages but here it is.

http://members.tripod.com/mike4g/

Thanks for the input.

I'll have to check with Mike as Toronto is only a couple of hours from here (once you get thru the border).

As far as driving, I already have a teener and an eleven, so I'm not without the Porsche Driving Experience.

Love indian summer, Drove the 911 to work today.

I have some of the donor parts already. It's just the middle section that surprised me.

I noticed something different last night.

My 914-6 has two rubber grommets for the fuel lines to go thru. While my '71 4cyl has a rubber block.

Anyone know when the factory changed to the other style?

My parts catalog doesn't even list the two grommet style. The single grommet is listed for all models.

My /6 has two grommets, too. The only reason I noticed it is because I changed out the fuel lines. Never thought about it before you mentioned it.

-Rusty

Mine is basicly gone.

I'm thinking about making a box to use bulkhead fittings -6 for braided lines for a replacement.

Front trunk is good

Except under one headlight bucket

How close do you park your Porsches in your garage?

Dial up sucks! Rather use the T1 at work

No, I did not scratch either. Pulled mirror out for effect.

Normally part 2-3 inches apart

Living on a dirt road sucks.

Not to mention doing a restoration in the other part of the garage!

Nose needs minor attention

Better shot of the pass longitudinal

What's left of mounting the left floor panel to

Are you sick yet? Or ready to drink heavily?

I LOVE THESE CARS Thanks for reinforceing my project to save #269

Front fender is not too bad

Except the back part

Don't forget the lower part...

Front part of the drivers rocker

Pass vent area from inside....


MORE HORORS FROM THE PASS SIDE SOON

Drivers front trunk gasket area

Drivers side, under dash, behind windsheild.

Yes, I tried to spot weld it in....