Air compressors - help?, an education Options

[VaccaRabite]

So I went to Home Depot today, armed with some scratch and the will to buy an air compressor and a DA air sander.

HD sells the husky line. So, I went to the tools, found a DA sander (Husky, needed 4cfm @ 90psi, and the box said it would work continously with 20+ gallon compressors).

Then I walked over to look at compressors. They had a Husky 24 gallon compressor that flowed 5.1 cfm @ 90 pis on sale ($225). Score! but then, on top of the motor, was a little chart with reccomended tools and non-reccomneded tools. All sanders and DA sanders were non-reccomneded.

I called over a HD floor guy, who called over another 2 guys, and we could not see a good reason for the prohibition. But, we decided that if the factory did not reccomend it, then it should not be used as such, and I walked over to the electric tool section and bought an electric DA sander. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I am going to need to buy a compressor by the spring. I'm clearly in the "hobbiest" catagory, and may not use the tool again for a long time aftyer I am done with my 914, but when it comes time to paint, it will probably be cheaper for me to buy one then rent one - given the slow nature that I work. I want to know why the sander was not reccomended, when the compressor could flow the air and had a big enough tank according to the tool. I have theories, but I thought somone here might be able to give better advice.

Thanks

Zach

[sww914]

I've had a Husky 220 7hp 60 gal in my garage for 5 years, I've used it for 4 complete paint jobs minus the painting (I rent a booth), countless fabrication projects, a bunch of small autobody & paint jobs, etc., etc., etc., and I've had no problems. It will just keep up with an HVLP gun, it will almost keep up with a big die grinder, a DA will work, but I need to stop and let it catch up every 5 minutes or so. It was $389.00 when I bought it. I couldn't live with anything less, but I don't really need much more. I used to have it plugged in to a dryer outlet with a 40' cord, but when I bought a house it had 220 in the garage, so all is well.
I've painted probably 50 panels here and I've never installed a water/oil trap. I keep meaning to, but it's working well so far, so why bother?
I do, however have a 30' run of pvc before the hose, angled so the water will run back into the compressor after the air cools, and that's what has prevented any water problems.
I'd do the same thing all over again.
Whatever you do, don't but an oil free compressor. Buy one with a seperate pump and motor, with a belt in between. I toasted 2 Sears oil free 6 hp 220 compressors, the ones with an integral motor and pump, while it was still under warranty. The rod went right through the piston both times, the cylinder was oval, and the plastic rings melted.
I sold the 3rd one as soon as I got it, and bought this.
Also, I run Mobil1 after about 20 hours, it doesn't coke up.

[Twystd1]

SWW914.

I live in a mecca of chemicals. There is enough silicone in the air in the commercial area of Costa Mesa to make a painter just cry from fish eye.

The ONLY way we have been able to lower the propensity for fish eye was to either add smoothy to our paint (I hate that but it makes the paint silicone compatible)

OR: clean any oil and water out of the air system before painting anything. That made a huge differance for our final coats. less blocking... less color sanding.

I live next to the beach. Humidity changes by the hour here. salt is in the air, silicone and all kinds of crazy stuff from chemical company's and from Porterfield racing brakes corp around the corner. Makes it difficult to get a really bitchin CONSISTENT final coat.

Thats is just how it works for me....... Like you.... i am just coming from my experience...

Cheers....!!!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Clayton