Car won't start after warmed up |
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Car won't start after warmed up |
Hammy |
Jan 25 2007, 06:08 PM
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#1
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mr. Wonderful Group: Members Posts: 1,826 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Columbia, California Member No.: 2,978 Region Association: Northern California |
This is continued from the NARP board a while back. I'm still having the problem so I'm posting here
This is a carbed (dual Weber) 1.7 It happens like this: I drive the car around town, gets up to full temp, stop at a store to go in real quick, come back out a couple minutes later and turn her over... Crank, crank, crank, crank. Doesn't fire up This happens sometimes, and then sometimes it doesn't happen, just fires right up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Also, the car starts fine and easily when the engine is cold. I can't tell if it's fuel related. I don't know if it's getting too much fuel when trying to start? I usually turn the engine over, and step the pedal down half way and it fires up. When this no start problem happens, no matter what I do with the gas pedal it doesn't fire. Sometimes I can get it to fire by holding the pedal down all the way and cranking forever and it'll start and run at like 100rpm, really slow like a tractor. I usually try and lightly tap the pedal to get it going strong, sometimes that'll work and sometimes it'll die. Then I can't tell if it's not getting enough fuel when trying to start - Because If I turn the engine over and don't touch the gas at all, it won't start. I normally have to push the gas down half way for a normal start. Or is it ignition related? Could incorrect timing cause it to do this? Dying battery? Engine seems to turn over fine. I have 12.4 volts across the battery posts with the engine off. Or Vapor lock? My fuel pump is just below the hell hole. Also, I've checked for any pinched fuel hose/lines and can't find any. I wouldn't think it was that because once the engine gets started again, it runs perfectly fine. I'm just scared to turn it off. Any help MUCH appreciated. This is killing me. |
Twystd1 |
Jan 26 2007, 07:00 AM
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#2
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You don't want to know... really..... Group: Members Posts: 2,514 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 2,743 |
It is probably running warmer due to the J Tube not being plugged...
FIX IT..... NOW.......... (please) If the carb ain't closing all the way... You either have a linkage issue.. Or the butterfly (throttle blade) is sitting cocked in the carb base and not allowing the blade to close all the way. Or the throttle blade shaft is binding somewhere in it's bore. Either way... You need to find out whats up and fix it. I think "Engman" makes some block off plates for the J tube... Look him up in the vendor section and see if he has a remedy for that. Or simply fix your heater. NOTE: After driving your car for twenty minutes or so. Pull over and pop your engine lid. Touch the carb bodywith your pinky. If it is so hot you are burning your finger. It's too dam hot. Usually carbs are relatively warm... NOT HOT..!!!! They will get hotter if you wait a few minutes. (engine heat rising) And if you burn your finger on it.... Well........ Thats your fault. I didn't say you had to try this..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif) YOU will have to figure it out. Don't send me the doctor bill like Aaron did. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) NOTE 1: If you are really running it hard and pull over and check the carb body. It might even be cold to the touch. NOTE 2. If you let sit and idle for ten minutes and try to touch the carb base... you better have a bandaid ready. Capiche? Note 3: On an alcohol fuel race car. The carb will sometimes have ice on it when run hard........ no kidding. Let us know what transpires on this... Okydoke????? Hot carbs = BAD. OH... And check your timing. BUT FIRST....... If using points. Check your your dwell with a dwell meter or re-set your points with a feeler gauge. I use a dwell meter only on points. Much more accurate. (no feeler gauge for this guy if I can help it on used points) BECAUSE YOU CAN'T SET CARBS CORRECTLY WITHOUT THE VALVES, POINTS AND TIMING BEING DEAD ON WITH NO INTAKE LEAKS. Else your chasing your carb tuning forever......... Just wasting time. Have I beat this to death enough????? Cheers brother, C |
mudfoot76 |
Jan 26 2007, 07:43 AM
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#3
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Currently teenerless :-( Group: Members Posts: 946 Joined: 18-March 04 From: Carmel, IN Member No.: 1,814 Region Association: None |
If the carb ain't closing all the way... You either have a linkage issue.. Awhile back, I had a similar problem that turned out to be a linkage issue. Car would not idle, but ran OK as long as the throttle was more than 50% open. On one side, a tiny screw had come loose slightly and messed up all the alignments. |
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