Rust Inhibitors Options

[Zeke]

You guys are pretty tough, especially when I come up with an idea. But I have been pursuing information on a process of rust protection and arrest for inaccessable areas like the rockers, doors, lower rear portions of the front fenders and rear edge of rear deck lid. Things like that. Not to mention the whole 914!

I know there are fleet applications for the military and the likes of UPS. I have found a few candidates for the job. One is sold under the name Carwell Rust Cop.

Another is a cosmoline based product that hardens and seals. Has a fantastic life span as opposed to the Rust Cop which must be renewed periodically. (And that makes marketing sense beacuse Carwell is really in the application business so why would they feature a one time process when they can come back time and again?)

A third is a lanolin base that can be used safely around the interior and taillight housings where it might get on the paint. The cosmoline formula is tough to remove once on.

There is even another 'Vaseline,' or petolatum, based one for a lighter more temporary use in the shop.

Comments? Anyone have any additional info for this type of thing? Seems like with our older cars, we would need as much rust protection as we can get.


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[Katmanken]

Um,

Someplace I've got one of those Brit car magazines that had a big article on rust. They took metal plates, coated 1/2 of them with the rust inhibitor/treatment and scraped a scratch across the rust treatment. Then they put them on a carousel outdoors and sprayed them with salty water once a week FOR A YEAR. Then they wrote the article.

The best materials were those cosmoline like honey colored cavity waxes. As I recall, waxoyl didn't come out too bad but the best materials were several Dinotrol formulations. In the UK they sell them in spray bombs or at the rust treatment places.

Did a huge search about 3-4 years ago and could only find the stuff sold in Canada.

Iffin you find some, Kenny want! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

Group buy and i'm in! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Maybe our Canadian friends can export it for us? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Ken

[orthobiz]

Apparently Waxoyl no longer available especially in the post-911 (not the car) era because of flammability issues. Home recipe from a british Mini site:

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

I'm pretty positive John Paterek applied this to my old 76 914 back in the 80's including injecting into the longitudinals and behind the sail vinyl. Those areas have not rusted to this day. When he first applied it, a bit oozed out on hot summer days around the sail vinyl but then stopped.

I'm wondering if there's any role for anti-rust treatment if a car has original finish and is not rusted out? A way to avoid undercoating?

Paul

[rfuerst911sc]

Apparently Waxoyl no longer available especially in the post-911 (not the car) era because of flammability issues. Home recipe from a british Mini site:

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

I'm pretty positive John Paterek applied this to my old 76 914 back in the 80's including injecting into the longitudinals and behind the sail vinyl. Those areas have not rusted to this day. When he first applied it, a bit oozed out on hot summer days around the sail vinyl but then stopped.

I'm wondering if there's any role for anti-rust treatment if a car has original finish and is not rusted out? A way to avoid undercoating?

Paul

I have a newbie question. When useing this home brew Waxoyl concoction or used oil or whatever is there a concern the odor from these items will be smelled in the cabin? Don't the heater tubes run thru the longs? I'm assuming when spraying this stuff I assume your trying to spray more towards the top of the enclosed area so it can run to the bottom, by doing this the heater tube will be covered correct? I am in the process of redoing a 1975 chassis and I want to spray/inject something into hollow cavities to prevent rust. Besides the longs and the rear inner/outer fenders any other areas to spray this stuff?

[Bartlett 914]

I have a newbie question. When useing this home brew Waxoyl concoction or used oil or whatever is there a concern the odor from these items will be smelled in the cabin? Don't the heater tubes run thru the longs? I'm assuming when spraying this stuff I assume your trying to spray more towards the top of the enclosed area so it can run to the bottom, by doing this the heater tube will be covered correct? I am in the process of redoing a 1975 chassis and I want to spray/inject something into hollow cavities to prevent rust. Besides the longs and the rear inner/outer fenders any other areas to spray this stuff?

I think you are correct about the smell. I am in hopes that is is temporary. I have read somewhere that it does go away in time (how much time?). I was planning on spraying only the bottom of the inside of the long because I do not want the "Sound Absorber" to absorb this stuff. Getting the full long would be better but I don't know how I could do it without drilling a lot of holes.