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terrymason |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 346 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Virginia Beach Member No.: 5,174 ![]() |
The problem - The car will go very lean around 2500 rpm, as if the pump jets were too small.
History: New fuel pump (3.5 PSI to each carb) 55 idle jets 55 pump jets 140 main jets 175 air correctors These carbs are new to the car, and I'm trying to dial them in. The car is lean when I first start it (16 / 17 on my air / fuel gauge), but then levels out to a nice 14.7 idle when warmed up. While driving, I can give the car 20% or so of the pedal, and drive up to highway speeds nicely, but when I goose it, it will go very lean (18-22 on my gauge) followed by a series of backfires and loss of power. I started off with 35 pump jets, and have moved up to 55s, which appear to be the most popular around here. I've also adjusted the pump jet linkage, from the nut fully loosened, and moved it in as far as it would go before affecting the main throttle shaft (like 60 turns or something). What do you guys think, do I need 75 pump jets? |
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terrymason |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 346 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Virginia Beach Member No.: 5,174 ![]() |
OK, I have made some big headway on this. I pulled all the jets from the car, and blew them out with carb cleaner, along with the places they go. Replaced my 52 idle jets with 60s.
I think cranked the idle up to 2500, and used my unisyn gauge to check the flow. The passenger was a 5, while the driver was at 12. I adjusted the linkage so that they are both at 11 around 2500 rpm. I then addressed my mixture, making all screws 2.5 turns out. I then adjusted my pump jets. turning them about midway out. They were previously all the way tightened (I was trying to get a larger pump squirt) I finally closed all my air bypass screws. Now, the car idles around 10.5 a/f (probably from the 60 idle jets). It drives 100% better, but still goes lean when it starts to pull (2nd gear feels it most). It also seems that if I goose the gas it will go lean. |
type11969 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Collingswood, NJ Member No.: 1,410 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Did you ever check out the vent size?
You should not be adjusting the linkage to balance the carbs, the carbs have to be balanced with the linkage disconnected. Once balanced, the linkage gets reconnected, and you try to make sure both carbs open and close at the same time and at the same rate. Once at highway rpms, are you still running lean? Or only when accelerating? If it is the latter, it could be due to oversized vents but you may be able to correct for it with the pump shot. Verify your vent size, consider jumping up to 180 airs, and check your e-tubes. You also should try to measure your pump volume, you should gun for at least .2 ccs per two pumps. The smallest vents CB had as of a month ago were 32s, they will be better than 34s for you (if you actually are running 34s). -Chris OK, I have made some big headway on this. I pulled all the jets from the car, and blew them out with carb cleaner, along with the places they go. Replaced my 52 idle jets with 60s. I think cranked the idle up to 2500, and used my unisyn gauge to check the flow. The passenger was a 5, while the driver was at 12. I adjusted the linkage so that they are both at 11 around 2500 rpm. I then addressed my mixture, making all screws 2.5 turns out. I then adjusted my pump jets. turning them about midway out. They were previously all the way tightened (I was trying to get a larger pump squirt) I finally closed all my air bypass screws. Now, the car idles around 10.5 a/f (probably from the 60 idle jets). It drives 100% better, but still goes lean when it starts to pull (2nd gear feels it most). It also seems that if I goose the gas it will go lean. |
terrymason |
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 346 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Virginia Beach Member No.: 5,174 ![]() |
Did you ever check out the vent size? You should not be adjusting the linkage to balance the carbs, the carbs have to be balanced with the linkage disconnected. Once balanced, the linkage gets reconnected, and you try to make sure both carbs open and close at the same time and at the same rate. Once at highway rpms, are you still running lean? Or only when accelerating? If it is the latter, it could be due to oversized vents but you may be able to correct for it with the pump shot. Verify your vent size, consider jumping up to 180 airs, and check your e-tubes. You also should try to measure your pump volume, you should gun for at least .2 ccs per two pumps. The smallest vents CB had as of a month ago were 32s, they will be better than 34s for you (if you actually are running 34s). -Chris Haven't checked the vent size yet. I balanced the carbs with the linkage off, and everything was cool. They would idle and flow the same. I then hooked the linkage up, and it appears that the linkage to the passenger was longer, so that they were fine at idle (the speed screw kept it open), then when I revved the engine, the driver side would be opened further. Does that make sense? I think I just had some slop in the linkage. once at highway speeds I'm fine. I am probably rich at idle and rich on the highway, but whenever I press the pedal quickly I go very lean for about 3 - 4 seconds, along with hesitation. The engine then levels out and is fine. I've ordered some 185 and 200 airs, and have checked the emulsion tube. I have a 9164.1 tube, but the guy that sold them to me said "I drilled them out, so they are they same as the 9164.2". Does that sound right? |
type11969 |
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#5
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Collingswood, NJ Member No.: 1,410 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
You gotta try to adjust the linkage such that the linkage opens the butterflys at the same rate and opens/closes them at the same time. That way you know they are sync'ed throughout the rev range. Syncing them with the linkage on at 2500 rpm probably means that they are only synced at 2500 rpm.
The accel hesistation may also be due to the 009. Its a pretty crappy dist. It is more likely to be due to large vents and maybe a small pump shot (you are right about how to adjust it). Try to measure the volume, make sure both sides are balanced and close to .2ccs per two strokes. I'm pretty sure the dell manual recommends 180 airs for most applications, you could order the reamer kit and open up your 175s. I'm not entirely sure how the airs come into play in the whole scheme of things, but messing with it may clear up that transistion problem you have. You can't "drill out" a .1 to a .2. You have to plug certain holes. I went through this ordeal with some poorly modded .1s that were supposed to mimic .2s. There are two upper holes you have to plug in order to get the .1s to be close to .2s. The raised middle band of the .2s is slightly larger than the .1s, but at 20+ dollars a piece, I'm getting by with the plugged .1s. These pics should give you an idea about what has to be plugged. Hopefully whoever "drilled" them didn't actually drill them! ![]() Haven't checked the vent size yet. I balanced the carbs with the linkage off, and everything was cool. They would idle and flow the same. I then hooked the linkage up, and it appears that the linkage to the passenger was longer, so that they were fine at idle (the speed screw kept it open), then when I revved the engine, the driver side would be opened further. Does that make sense? I think I just had some slop in the linkage. once at highway speeds I'm fine. I am probably rich at idle and rich on the highway, but whenever I press the pedal quickly I go very lean for about 3 - 4 seconds, along with hesitation. The engine then levels out and is fine. I've ordered some 185 and 200 airs, and have checked the emulsion tube. I have a 9164.1 tube, but the guy that sold them to me said "I drilled them out, so they are they same as the 9164.2". Does that sound right? |
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