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jaybird840 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 163 Joined: 27-September 06 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 6,927 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Replacing the NONEXISTENT shifter bushings in my '75 teener and have read and re-read the Pelican article. I have removed the rear tapered screw but was unsuccessful in removing the shift head from the shifter bar in the rear. I wanted to check here before I moved to a bit more persuasion. If they put a cone screw there, I assume that means it separates.... Should just tap off the end of the shift rod with the cone screw removed, right?
--Jaybird ![]() |
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jaybird840 |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 163 Joined: 27-September 06 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 6,927 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Well, that wasn't so bad.... It actually slid right off with a few light strokes with a hammer. I can't believe it--I actually had NO bushings left anywhere. Firewall bushing.... gone. Ball cup bushing... gone. Coupler bushings? Came tumbling down when I removed the rubber boot. They're all refreshed now, tho.
One last question. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet, but I jumped in last night expecting to feel buttery-smooth shifting, and the shifter seems to be binding up pretty good. I'm certain I got the ball cup bushing seated properly (after not having seated it properly three times) and the coupler was smooth as silk. Any thoughts? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) --Jay |
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