914-6 GT fast road/track suspension settings |
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914-6 GT fast road/track suspension settings |
amallagh |
Aug 3 2007, 05:34 PM
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#21
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Member Group: Members Posts: 103 Joined: 4-September 06 From: Cheshire, England Member No.: 6,767 |
Hi,
I'm just about to have the suspension set up on my 914-6 GT project and wanted to see if anyone had any advice. I have never done this before (my first 914) and was looking for a fast road/track set up. I think the range of settings people seem to talk about on Toe and Caster is fairly small but camber settings vary wildly depending on what people want to do and type of tyres. I know the theory about track set up and measuring temperatures across the width of the tyre but this car will spend more time on the road than track (albeit I could be called a spirited road driver!), and tracktime ain't cheap ! Suspension components are :- FRONT - Sway-a-way 22mm hollow torsion bars Weltmeister 22mm sway bar Bilstein shocks Weltmeister camber plates Fuchs 7X15s with Goodyear Eagle GSD3 205/50s REAR - Weltmeister 140lb springs or 180lb springs available - need to decide which ones are best to use ? Weltmeister 16mm sway bar Koni adjustable shocks (yellow) Stable Energies rear strut tower camber brace. Weltmeister chassis and suspension arm stiffening kits Fuchs 8X15s with Goodyear Eagle GSD3 225/50s Tyres will be This is what I was planning to do based on some previous indications:- FRONT - Toe in(each wheel)- 10' Camber- 1 degree negative Caster- 6 degrees REAR - Toe in(each wheel)- 15' Camber- 1.5 degrees negative ############################################# I think these are the factory settings - FRONT - Toe in(combined) 20' +/-10' Camber- 0 degrees +/-20' Caster- 6 degrees +/-30' REAR - Toe in(each wheel) - 0 degrees +15' Camber- 30' +/-20' negative ############################################## I would welcome any advice or opinions. If anyone has any advice on initial settings for the rear Koni shocks then that would be a real bonus. All advice gratefully received and without prejudice. Andrew |
914forme |
Aug 7 2007, 11:52 AM
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#22
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Thats a first (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Nope Grant is right, my rule of thumb is document everything, and then go from there once you have the base line and know what it will do you can move an see where you need to go. Bu until then it is all guess work. BTW, suspension setup is like underwear we all have preferences. So what works for some other find unconfortable. A tire Pryo will tell you more about what you are running and how it is set, but DOT-r are diferent than street tires, and way different than race slicks. IF what you are doing is all street and one auto-x a year don't worry so much. If all you do is auto-x and then street to get there and home, Then worry about it some more. But until you drive it and see what works for you, you will never know. Smartest thing you can do is drive the car. The rest will come with real data that being on a set of jack-stands can not provide. BTW, a true good auto-x setup might not ( probally won't) be optimal for the street or the track. There is no silver bullet for this one. Also if you can get pictures of your car as it makes turns both left and right, video is even better. That will give you an idea what the car is doing, and more importantly what the suspension is doing. Last weekend I stiffened up the front and rear, and started carrying the front inner some corners and rear inner on others. So it now back to the orginal bar setup, which did not allow the tires to lift, and provided faster lap times. But with out pictures I would not have had proof that it was happening, I know what I felt, ( driven FWD cars ) so I know how to hang a rear tire in the air, pissing dog style. But pictures and times told the story. |
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