Out with the old, in with the older, SS exchangers replacing '75 crapola |
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Out with the old, in with the older, SS exchangers replacing '75 crapola |
rjames |
Oct 27 2007, 02:34 PM
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#1
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,954 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Finally got the old exchangers off. What a gigantic PITA. I figured they'd fall right off after removing the exhaust stud bolts, but noooooooo. It took about 1 hour of coaxing per side (and a ton of cursing) before they let go.
Here's the old: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) |
rjames |
Oct 27 2007, 06:44 PM
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#2
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,954 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE Those HEs were a nice snag. They look like the last version with stainless flanges at the muffler. The earlier ones were all stainless except for those flanges.... Yup, did the magnet test, and it didn't stick to any part of those babys! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) And thanks for the link, explains it all perfectly! A couple of other questions: 1) Should I attempt to replace the exhaust studs, or just leave them alone? I am a little afraid to try and remove them for fear of breaking one off. I already have one that is stripped that I'll have to replace- a job I'm not looking forward to. 2) How much, if any, of the j-tubes/ductwork should I attach to the exchangers before installing? I was able to pull my old ones out with everything attached (thankfully because it was all rusted together), but it wasn't easy. 3) How tight should the exhaust stud nuts be- I thought I read somewhere that it should be tighted to 25lbs? Thanks! |
jk76.914 |
Oct 27 2007, 07:10 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States |
A couple of other questions: 1) Should I attempt to replace the exhaust studs, or just leave them alone? I am a little afraid to try and remove them for fear of breaking one off. I already have one that is stripped that I'll have to replace- a job I'm not looking forward to. 2) How much, if any, of the j-tubes/ductwork should I attach to the exchangers before installing? I was able to pull my old ones out with everything attached (thankfully because it was all rusted together), but it wasn't easy. 3) How tight should the exhaust stud nuts be- I thought I read somewhere that it should be tighted to 25lbs? Thanks! 1.) I would leave any that are intact alone. Just be sure they don't rock from side to side. There may be other advice on this, as I am just working from a sample of one- my '76 that I backdated with SSIs. The one you have to replace- you have options. Some are easier, but others may be better. When you say stripped, do you mean the stud stripped out of the head, or the thread stripped off at the nut? 2.) I didn't attach any of that stuff to mine yet. I hope it can all be attached after!!!!! I assume you have the early style ductwork? I don't think ANY of your late style will fit.... 3. Believe it or not, it's only 14 ft-lbs. That's VW's spec, and it is also the limit for 8mm threads in aluminum. Unless you have a 1.8. They had 8mm/9mm step studs (according to the parts book anyway). A 9mm thread in the aluminum would probably be OK to 16 ft-lbs. If you go to the high teens or higher, there's risk of pulling studs from the head after a few thermal cycles. I guess others have gone higher and it's worked, but the engineering says stick to 14. Also, save your nuts! My '76 had helinuts- a tall steel nut with helicoil threads inside. If that's what you have, they're reusable, and better than one piece nuts. The helicoil provides some flex to help accomodate for thermal expansion and contraction. They're more expensive, and you can bet VW wouldn't have gone with them if there wasn't an advantage. Jim |
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