Oiling problems on sharp turns, Whats your oiling solution? Options

[JPB]

Talking to some track dudes some have said they gave up driving T4s due to loosing to much oil on the track and no matter how big the Acusump was, they still burned out bearings. What is your solution to this problem? THNX (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[HAM Inc]

The CB dry sump pump is compatible with pretty much any existing oil cooler, stock or otherwise, that has already been installed. It's not the ideal dry sump pump, but it works. It draws the oil out of the engine through the factory pickup and circulates it out to a holding tank. The pump then draws the oil back from the holding tank and passes it to the primary gears which then send the oil into the engine as a conventional pump would.

If you have full flowed your case already and have a remote OC plumbed up you wouldn't have to do anything different with it. As a matter of fact I now believe this is the best routing with this pump as cooling the oil after it has passed through the pump should lead to cooler oil. On our F-Prod car we routed the oil through a cooler and filter and then returned it to the tank. In this scenario the cooled oil passes back through the pump which is likely hotter than the oil. I wouyld add a filter between the tank and the out let line from the pump. It will keep the tank from collecting particles of wear.

A conventional upright holding tank would be a challenge to mount in a car with a funtioning passenger seat. Fortunately holding tanks are easy to build and could even be mounted in the rear trunk. A search of dry sump tanks on e-bay almost always reveals custom units for sale that might be easier to mount in a tighter space. Make sure you have some method of preventing the holding tank from draining into the engine when you shut it off. We use a manual ball valve. It works fine for us because our team is good about check list and it always gets opened before the engine is started. If you don't have some method of preventing drain back the engine will fill with oil and the pistons will pump it out your vents into your breather tank on the next start-up.

[hedfurst]

The CB dry sump pump is compatible with pretty much any existing oil cooler, stock or otherwise, that has already been installed. It's not the ideal dry sump pump, but it works. It draws the oil out of the engine through the factory pickup and circulates it out to a holding tank. The pump then draws the oil back from the holding tank and passes it to the primary gears which then send the oil into the engine as a conventional pump would.

If you have full flowed your case already and have a remote OC plumbed up you wouldn't have to do anything different with it. As a matter of fact I now believe this is the best routing with this pump as cooling the oil after it has passed through the pump should lead to cooler oil. On our F-Prod car we routed the oil through a cooler and filter and then returned it to the tank. In this scenario the cooled oil passes back through the pump which is likely hotter than the oil. I wouyld add a filter between the tank and the out let line from the pump. It will keep the tank from collecting particles of wear.

A conventional upright holding tank would be a challenge to mount in a car with a funtioning passenger seat. Fortunately holding tanks are easy to build and could even be mounted in the rear trunk. A search of dry sump tanks on e-bay almost always reveals custom units for sale that might be easier to mount in a tighter space. Make sure you have some method of preventing the holding tank from draining into the engine when you shut it off. We use a manual ball valve. It works fine for us because our team is good about check list and it always gets opened before the engine is started. If you don't have some method of preventing drain back the engine will fill with oil and the pistons will pump it out your vents into your breather tank on the next start-up.

Very good, any clearance problems with the cooling fan or are you using a DTM?