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southernmost914 |
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KEY WEST/HAVANA Tunnel Authority ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 338 Joined: 16-October 07 From: Key West/ St. Augie, Fl USA Member No.: 8,234 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
What is the latest way to repair the door jam to quarter panel seam? I think I remeber it being a lead seam. Should I spot weld, seam weld,brass braize or melt some sinkers?
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r_towle |
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,594 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Dont use brass whatever you do. I was told by a guy (I did not listen) that the paint will never stick.
It did for 6 years, but eventually it became bubbly. I know there is brass on our cars, specifically around the tail lights, but I would never use it again. For the proper German way....spot weld and lead. For todays methods, faux spot welds with premium bondo. Faux spot welds can be done with a mig if you drill holes in the top panel and practice on the bench with scrap. Make the weld bigger and grind down with various tools of power.. The bondo...hmmm On the 356 the door gaps were made perfect using lead on the edge that is perpendicular to the fender. I have yet to do it, but I will soon be replacing a section the same as yours, but on a 356. I am told by many that bondo is fine for this. I have my doubts. It does not seem that in an area that gets alot of vibration and impact that it wont crack, but I hope I am wrong. If you have never done lead work, well...it sucks. Its a long long process that creates alot of heat on the panel, can warp, can also not stick if you dont tin it right...it just sucks. Rich |
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