More shift adjustment questions, I'm having sensory overload Options

[mdwman]

I've read posts on the topic, the PP tech article, and the Haynes procedure but I'm not sure I'm clear on adjusting my '73 side shift linkage.

To rotate the shift rod left or right it has to be out (disengaged) of the coupler at the shift lever, is that correct? Also, in the access hole between the seats please help me identify whats what. The shift rod is the thick bar against the drivers side. Then there are 2 thin metal tubes in the middle going through the fire wall, what are these. There is also a curved metal tube with nuts on it's middle section. Is this tube part of the shift linkage and are the nuts turned for adjustment?

I am able to access all gears but have a grind downshifting 3 to 2. I presume I am "nicking" reverse? The lockout plate looks good and the springs are Weltmeister replacements (they did not appear to be any more stout than the originals). What is the best adjustment procedure to remedy this?

Thanks for any help.

Mark

[Joe Ricard]

Grab the rod and push pull and twist. you should be able to detect all your shift gates.

I do as explained above establish 2-3 gate. tighten the shifter clamp. You should be able to easily go 2-3
Now go into 1-R gate this should be against spring pressure.
With your finger tips on the shifter go 1-2 the shifter should pop out of the 1 gate and center up in nuetral ready to go into 2nd with just your finger tip on the top of the shifter ball.
If this is not what you get then you need to adjust the rod in relation to the shifter, loosen the clamp on the shifter and rotate the rod one spline and try it again.
Once you get 1-2 shift working then go to 3-4 and this should be against less spring pressure but some. if you get 4th then 4-5 will be done as well.

Now go drive it. and be prepared to make a 1 spline adjustment either way.