MSD/Pertronix Installation and, solving power loss & other problems Options

[bob174]

Ok, I have a '73 2.0 with the D-Jet intact. I have had a problem since I bought the car with a power loss after the car warms up (about 10 minutes after driving it in the morning). I have done numerous things to attempt to correct the problem--lots of diagnostics on the fuel injection & correction of problems. Last year the car started running very rough, like it was missing on one or two cylinders. Had to goose it to keep it from dying at idle. I replaced injectors and also installed the Pertronix and MSD ignition systems. While researching the Pertronix/MSD installation, I noted a couple things on the site. 1) there were varying wiring diagrams for this installation; and 2) there were questions as to how well the MSD tach adapter worked. I studied the various wiring diagrams (from the component vendors) and wired my system accordingly (with the MSD 8910 tach adapter), and the car started and ran like a champ on the first turn with the tach working great (I was a little concerned about the integration issues I might encounter when installing two systems-Pertronix and MSD-simultaneously). I have generated a wiring diagram that integrates the Pertronix, MSD and MSD tach adapter diagrams. I hope this helps someone not have to spend 2 hours staring at their component wires and the diagrams and various posts in order to get their system working. Man is it nice to see that timing mark sit there rock solid on the fan housing notch! As a side note, I used the tech article posted on Pelican's site for getting the part numbers for the MSD installation (6A MSD box, 8910 Tach Adapter, MSD's universal plug wires set, and MSD Blaster 2 Coil), and used the 1847V Pertronix Module.

Unfortunately my rough running problem was still there. With the things I had replaced/upgraded I now knew my problem was neither ignition related, or fuel delivery related. In hindsight, I did not troubleshoot the problem correctly. It was running as if it were only firing on two cylinders--and this rough running symptom came on slowly over a period of months). So finally (I'm slow but eventually get to the right technique) I started sequentially pulling the injector plugs off the injectors to see if there was a difference in how the car ran. Turns out there was no difference when I pulled the #1 and #4 injectors. Hmmm, seems like I recall the fuel injection trigger points in the distributor fired two cylinders at a time--yep, they fire 1 & 4 together and 2 & 3 together. I had tested all of the injection components per Brad Anders' site, including the injection trigger points. Besides, according to numerous articles, these things are hardly ever the cause of injection problems. I had previously removed the distributor, cleaned the trigger points and reinstalled, ohmed them out, etc. From an ohm meter stand point, both the points and the wire harness wires to them were good. Well heck, I figured what's left to do? So I bought a set. Not only did it fix the injector firing problem, it also corrected my power loss after the engine heated up. The car just absolutely runs great now--better than it has since I bought it--probably 25% more power. Thank you Geoff (Bleyseng) for fixing my MPS a couple years ago, and everyone else for all related posts that I have researched. Hope the wiring diagram and this post helps someone else.

Bob