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> rust removal, can't get the tight spots
nycchef
post Nov 30 2009, 09:16 PM
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got 90% of the rust off my front nsuspension using a grin dong wheel and wire brush. can't get those hard to reach spots like corners, seams and such. used a half a dozen dremel bits. anyone know a good method. i can't get to a bead blaster right now and would like to finish.
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McMark
post Dec 1 2009, 01:14 PM
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Go get a gallon of muriatic acid and a plastic container that'll hold an A-Arm. Drop the arm in a 50/50 water acid mix overnight. You'll need to paint them immediately after removal and rinse. The acid etch will make them flash rust within 30 minutes. Or have a bottle of POR-15 Metal Ready nearby to spray on them.
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r_towle
post Dec 1 2009, 02:36 PM
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If you have air...get a tool called a spot blaster.
Its perfect for all sorts of things.

Google is your friend.
Spot Blaster.

Rich
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Cevan
post Dec 1 2009, 02:54 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Dec 1 2009, 03:36 PM) *

If you have air...get a tool called a spot blaster.
Its perfect for all sorts of things.

Google is your friend.
Spot Blaster.

Rich


HF sells those for cheap.
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nycchef
post Dec 1 2009, 02:57 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Dec 1 2009, 12:36 PM) *

If you have air...get a tool called a spot blaster.
Its perfect for all sorts of things.

Google is your friend.
Spot Blaster.

Rich


both good ideas. thanks. anyone have any experience dupont nason paints? i called 3 powder coating places , no one is interested in a few small parts, want big bucks
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VaccaRabite
post Dec 1 2009, 05:14 PM
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I am interested to hear more about using your "grin dong" to remove rust. I know I don't use mine that way, but maybe I'm just not brave enough to experiment.

Zach
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rjames
post Dec 1 2009, 06:27 PM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 1 2009, 03:14 PM) *

I am interested to hear more about using your "grin dong" to remove rust. I know I don't use mine that way, but maybe I'm just not brave enough to experiment.

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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nycchef
post Dec 2 2009, 07:29 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 1 2009, 03:14 PM) *

I am interested to hear more about using your "grin dong" to remove rust. I know I don't use mine that way, but maybe I'm just not brave enough to experiment.

Zach

it's hard to explain. suffice to say keeping the grin on it is the hard part, if it starts to frown, it won't remove the rust.

well.. i think we've run that joke into the ground, don't want the admins to take offense and delete me. now can we get back to the f#@^ng paint
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Greg44
post Dec 2 2009, 07:38 AM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Dec 2 2009, 05:29 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 1 2009, 03:14 PM) *

I am interested to hear more about using your "grin dong" to remove rust. I know I don't use mine that way, but maybe I'm just not brave enough to experiment.

Zach

it's hard to explain. suffice to say keeping the grin on it is the hard part, if it starts to frown, it won't remove the rust.

well.. i think we've run that joke into the ground, don't want the admins to take offense and delete me. now can we get back to the f#@^ng paint

I use the Nason 2 part epoxy primer on the helicopters it is very tuff stuff
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nycchef
post Dec 2 2009, 07:43 AM
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QUOTE(Greg44 @ Dec 2 2009, 05:38 AM) *

QUOTE(nycchef @ Dec 2 2009, 05:29 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 1 2009, 03:14 PM) *

I am interested to hear more about using your "grin dong" to remove rust. I know I don't use mine that way, but maybe I'm just not brave enough to experiment.

Zach

it's hard to explain. suffice to say keeping the grin on it is the hard part, if it starts to frown, it won't remove the rust.

well.. i think we've run that joke into the ground, don't want the admins to take offense and delete me. now can we get back to the f#@^ng paint

I use the Nason 2 part epoxy primer on the helicopters it is very tuff stuff

finally a serious participant. have you used either the urethane or acrilic paints they make
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Greg44
post Dec 2 2009, 08:43 AM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Dec 2 2009, 05:43 AM) *

QUOTE(Greg44 @ Dec 2 2009, 05:38 AM) *

QUOTE(nycchef @ Dec 2 2009, 05:29 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 1 2009, 03:14 PM) *

I am interested to hear more about using your "grin dong" to remove rust. I know I don't use mine that way, but maybe I'm just not brave enough to experiment.

Zach

it's hard to explain. suffice to say keeping the grin on it is the hard part, if it starts to frown, it won't remove the rust.

well.. i think we've run that joke into the ground, don't want the admins to take offense and delete me. now can we get back to the f#@^ng paint

I use the Nason 2 part epoxy primer on the helicopters it is very tuff stuff

finally a serious participant. have you used either the urethane or acrilic paints they make

Don't mean to be too serious but no I use the dupont 5000 series on top of the epoxy
pretty forgiving and flows out real nice
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nycchef
post Dec 2 2009, 09:49 AM
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[I use the Nason 2 part epoxy primer on the helicopters it is very tuff stuff
[/quote]
finally a serious participant. have you used either the urethane or acrilic paints they make
[/quote]
Don't mean to be too serious but no I use the dupont 5000 series on top of the epoxy
pretty forgiving and flows out real nice
[/quote]
that's o.k ,914'ing is serious stuff, thanks i'l look into the 5000 paint
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Katmanken
post Dec 2 2009, 10:06 AM
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If yer going to acid dip, I'd buy a box of baking soda and make up a baking soda and water solution to dip the parts into after the acid dip. The baking soda has the ability to neutralize both strong acids AND base (caustic lye) materials to a neutral PH. Be sure to rinse the parts well in water after the baking soda solution. If they are not rinsed well, you might find some white baking soda on the parts.

Because the parts go under the car and are subject to paint chips from sand, rocks etc, , I'd coat them in undercoating to provide a resilient non- chipping "bounce layer" for the impacting particles to hit.
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warrenoliver
post Dec 2 2009, 10:08 AM
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How about a needle scaler? Never used one but I think it would be pretty darn handy.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Needle-Scaler-an...l&id=957262
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nycchef
post Dec 2 2009, 10:29 AM
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QUOTE(warrenoliver @ Dec 2 2009, 08:08 AM) *

How about a needle scaler? Never used one but I think it would be pretty darn handy.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Needle-Scaler-an...l&id=957262

needle scaler looks like fun. @ $150.00 i may hand sand
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Dr Evil
post Dec 2 2009, 12:04 PM
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Try harbor freight for a needle scaler. They are better than a grin dong by far. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I agree that a rubberized undercoating is a GREAT idea to protect the metal. Shit just bounces off.
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charliew
post Dec 2 2009, 01:16 PM
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You can put a clear coat over the rubber under coat and it will stay nice and black and be easier to clean over time. If you don't get all of the muratic acid off you will not like the results over time, especially if there are any seams. Thats why blasting is so much simplier to get good results.
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Dr Evil
post Dec 2 2009, 02:37 PM
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Regarding muriatic acid (found at your local pool store), which is HCl, I would recommend phosphoric acid instead. It is less of a PITA to work with and turns the rust in to a sturdy black oxide instead. HCl eats away at the good steel as well. H2PO4 does not do as bad. If you want to know where to get the phosphoric acid, it is the key ingredient in most all rust converters; Ospho (a favorite), Naval jelly, Rust-mort, etc. I used Ospho on the outside of the cutter I was on in the Coast Guard. It proved itself in that environment.
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nycchef
post Dec 3 2009, 07:26 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Dec 2 2009, 12:37 PM) *

Regarding muriatic acid (found at your local pool store), which is HCl, I would recommend phosphoric acid instead. It is less of a PITA to work with and turns the rust in to a sturdy black oxide instead. HCl eats away at the good steel as well. H2PO4 does not do as bad. If you want to know where to get the phosphoric acid, it is the key ingredient in most all rust converters; Ospho (a favorite), Naval jelly, Rust-mort, etc. I used Ospho on the outside of the cutter I was on in the Coast Guard. It proved itself in that environment.


thanks guys, i think i'm gonna stay away from the acids. put in the time and hand sand then use a rust converter, it's only on the inside mounts of the stabalizer bar, not visable really, just don't want to but it back with any rust if possible.
hey doc, you ever coming up to the big city? leo is supposed to bring the brood in to the restaurant soon, you and noel can crash here. no real car work , just food and drink
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IronHillRestorations
post Dec 3 2009, 07:56 AM
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Go to Home Depot and get "Must For Rust". It's a corrosion treating chemical that leaves a phosphate coating. Then paint it.
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