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> V8 Conversion Kits, Kits, parts which is the best
turbo914v8
post Apr 7 2004, 06:26 PM
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Brad,

Thanks for the information. I guess the obvious choice is the 930 cv's. I am going to start gathering the parts for the conversion to the 930 cv's. At least this way when I break what I have now, I will be ready with the 930 set up. For the moment it's not broken so I wont fix it. What are you running in your car? Engine, transaxle?. Any other modifications.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.
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chunger
post Apr 7 2004, 11:24 PM
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Hello,

Is there a difference between 930 CV's and 930 CV's? I see them advertised in magazines like Hot VW's for like $40-$60 and I see Porsche CV's for something like $90.

I'm sure these CV's all fit the same, I was wondering if there are other internal differences between the different lobro parts. . . or do they just have a different part number for the Porsche just for price gouging's sake. Or are they all the same and some people have different importers/pricing structure. . . just buy from the cheapest guy.(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)

-'Chung
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Brad Roberts
post Apr 8 2004, 12:28 AM
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Chung,

Call them and find out what the "kit" includes. Some kits include boots/grease/flanges. The cheaper kits come with a dry CV joint in a box. I wouldnt trust anything but lobro.

I have tested using the early 911 CV's that are the exact same size as a 930 but only have 4 bolts and two pins. I drill them out for the other two bolts and go on down the road. So far so good.


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Brad Roberts
post Apr 8 2004, 12:31 AM
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Paul,

I dont actually have a conversion car. Everything I start building ends up being sold before I get a chance to complete it (somebody normally wants it before I am done.)

The wife wants me to do a Z06 vette engine in her GT flared 914. I want to do it but we have to recover from a HUGE financial gamble that I took.


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chunger
post Apr 8 2004, 12:39 AM
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Do the 911 CV's hold together ok with the 2 pins and 4 bolts? My stub axles are 911 w/ the pin holes. I figure my application wouldn't be stressing them too badly.

Otherwise, is there any reason they couldn't be drilled and tapped for bolts?

-'Chung


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Brad Roberts
post Apr 8 2004, 12:46 AM
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The holes for the pins are too big to be tapped. They will work fine on the outboard side of the axle.

Those are SC flanges.. they dont exactly fit our wheel bearings (I know how to make them fit..) but the early flanges slide right in.


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chunger
post Apr 8 2004, 01:00 AM
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Uh oh,

Which part of the flanges do not fit right? I purchased them eons ago from Rich Johnson for my 914 w/ the rest of my suspension.

I wonder if he knew that or has already modified them. .. I'm clueless. I just buy stuff I think might fit <_<

-'Chung <_<
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andys
post Apr 8 2004, 09:53 AM
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Brad,

Are the 930 CV's the same size as the later ('89) Carrera (108mm I believe) ?

Thanks,

Andy
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turbo914v8
post Apr 8 2004, 10:26 AM
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Brad,

Your work must be really grand if you are selling every thing before its finished. Now if only I could get my wife into converting 914's. She would just rather get a new car that works and just be done with it.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.
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Chris914n6
post Apr 10 2004, 01:04 AM
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Hi Chung, glad you made it here.

I found a relatively new conversion company surfing Ebay, Desert Hybrids. Run by a Mechanical Engineer with a CNC out of Tucson AZ. Different component layout than RH, I haven't seen a RSH kit to compare. Seemed like a bright guy from the email. Uses the Kennedy parts that no one else will admit to. Billet water pump housing anyone?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Desert Hybrids

*haven't met the guy, can't vouch for him, just another Dave I know...

Chris

PS. bus axles, 930/bus CVs, 1/2" machined spacers. RH sells a built kit. Pelican carrys it. Good stuff for HP.


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jridder
post Apr 11 2004, 12:00 AM
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>Billet water pump housing anyone

Cool. Of course the one pictured is not a "billet", but a "weld-up". I'm no expert on centrifugal pumps, but the sharp angles on this one don't seem right.
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neo914-6
post Apr 11 2004, 02:00 AM
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Seems to me if you have a clean sheet, engineering degree/CAD, CNC, then you should be able to produce a higher tolerance pump than that. i.e. machined elbows with a lip or features to hold the hoses on securely. Maybe it's a prototype...

He must use his CNC's alot more on high production parts since you need to run these 24x7 to pay for their capital and operational costs.

QUOTE
Uses the Kennedy parts that no one else will admit to


Chris, actually KEP is what the ZF conversions use and there are a few like Bob C who runs their adapter (he drove his white 914 with Scott's car on Calaveras road) Note: half the cars at the last Bay Area conversion meet had non-Renegade parts. Scott and Mike still spent the day with the Renegade renegades.
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John2kx
post Apr 11 2004, 04:45 AM
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For comparison, this is the Renegade pump. I prefer the the inlet/out fittings since they swivel to allow proper hose orientation vs. being fixed. The conversion pumps are notorious for blowing hoses since there is no bypass provided to relieve pressure prior to thermostat opening. I agree that a ridge should be provided on all hose fittings.

The nuts tack welded to the desert housing make me a little nervous. They take the stress of the bolts securing impeller housing as well as pressure applied from drivebelt while in operation. The tension applied to secure belt when tight is transmitted to these nuts. Guess the nuts were easier to install vs. machining into housing but either a full weld should be applied or machine these threads into pump housing should provide added strength.

Attached is a Renegade pump. Excuse the RTV mess. Mo' is not always better : ) Got it right the second time around.

John


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John2kx
post Apr 11 2004, 04:48 AM
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hikgf


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John2kx
post Apr 11 2004, 05:01 AM
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The fixed inlet fitting on Dessert pump will more than likely create a severe kink with inlet hose as it attaches to pump. This is the tightest radius turn in the entire cooling system and a kink can be installed even with the RH pump if attention to detail is not followed during hose installation.

The inlet being offset to about 8 o'clock (as viewed from rear of car) also keeps hose tucked tight under chassis.

John
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BIGKAT_83
post Apr 11 2004, 06:45 AM
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Davids(Desert Hybrids) steel pump housing lines up nice when mounted on the engine.

Bob


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John2kx
post Apr 11 2004, 07:28 AM
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Bob,

The inlet fittings do appear to work when pump is installed on right hand side. With my serpentine belt/ac compressor/water pump/alternator setup, the water pump is installed on left side and would not put hoses in best location.

John
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John2kx
post Apr 11 2004, 08:09 AM
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Looking at the RH pump again and comparing to Desert, I stand corrected. The hose outlet fittings would work no matter which side of engine pump is mounted on..........just have to route hoses a little different than the method I chose.

John


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John2kx
post Apr 11 2004, 08:21 AM
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Renegade now offers this piece to aid in eliminating kink in rubber hose at water pump inlet. I am currently running a steel spring in my hose to eliminate kink and plan to install this piece next time system is drained.

What I'd really like to see is this extention be part of water pump inlet.........two less hose clamps, two less potential water leak points.

John


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BIGKAT_83
post Apr 11 2004, 08:54 AM
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I used a molded rubber hose with a 90 bend it it for mine. I went to North Carolina yesterday to a shop that sells Nascar teams take off parts. They had a box of aluminum water pipe bends the size of a pickup truck bed.

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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