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> Need help getting my fuel tank out - thanks, nothing more money couldn't cure...
VaccaRabite
post Oct 18 2011, 07:24 AM
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No, ther is no benefit. In fact, there is a detriment. The cloth covered hose has rubber that gets eaten by ethanol.

You need to replace the hose with something that is rated for ethanol, or you need to decide to change the fuel hose every few years as it degrades prematurely.

Zach
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76-914
post Oct 18 2011, 07:54 AM
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That length is correct, Rob.With the left side down you just need to lift the right side of the tank enough to access that last hose clamp. As far as kinking the hose goes; no worries. Just look from below w/ an inspection mirror or inspection camera. If you change hose to (30R9 ?)as Zach suggested be VERY careful about kinking it as it is quite soft.
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 18 2011, 08:31 AM
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I wonder if kinking was the reason the PO used stainless sheath hose? That stuff is very expensive, and under the tank would not seem to be the right place for it. Most of the stainless sheath hose from Summit is rated for ethanol. I would not use worm clamps though, but braze on AN fittings.

You know, if I wanted to spend ~$150 in fuel hose and fittings that would never be seen.

Zach
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kconway
post Oct 18 2011, 08:59 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 18 2011, 07:31 AM) *

You know, if I wanted to spend ~$150 in fuel hose and fittings that would never be seen.

Zach



Cheap, start here: http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1709

Attached Image
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 18 2011, 09:28 AM
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You are evil.
Simply evil.

This will lead to a very slippery slope where every fitting is AN.

What do they do at the fuel pump?
Zach
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moparrob
post Oct 18 2011, 10:53 PM
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Thanks Kevin. You got me totally screwed up, though. My credit card is still smoldering.

It started with the CB gas tank bungs - had to have them. Followed by 10 feet of the proper 30R9 fuel hose, and the proper hose clamps (not the screw drive ones).

While I was at it I decided to finish plumbing the rest of my system in -6 AN fittings, to the fuel filter, to the pump and back to the pressure regulator. Then new fittings out to the carbs.

Of course, while I was at it I HAD to get a new in-line fuel pressure gauge.

So, $125 later I now have my fuel system completely configured from stem to stern.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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kconway
post Oct 18 2011, 10:56 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

It's all a slippery slope here isn't it?

Kev
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moparrob
post Oct 18 2011, 11:24 PM
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Yeah, although that doesn't count what I already spent on the Holley pump, regulator and Fram gas filter..

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/gnobl2.50webs.com-11663-1319001877.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.racereadyproducts.com-11663-1319001877.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.outdoorpros.com-11663-1319001878.3.jpg)
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kconway
post Oct 19 2011, 06:29 AM
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I know how that goes, I did a Racor 2 micron filter, PMO regulator (didn't need it but got it with my carbs and it has a gauge and plumbed for my return), and a cheapy Carter pump.
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stugray
post Oct 19 2011, 10:19 AM
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"It started with the CB gas tank bungs - had to have them. Followed by 10 feet of the proper 30R9 fuel hose, and the proper hose clamps (not the screw drive ones).

While I was at it I decided to finish plumbing the rest of my system in -6 AN fittings, to the fuel filter, to the pump and back to the pressure regulator. Then new fittings out to the carbs.

Of course, while I was at it I HAD to get a new in-line fuel pressure gauge.

So, $125 later I now have my fuel system completely configured from stem to stern."

Sounds like you got off easy!

My Holley fuel pump cost almost that much alone.
Jegs wants $21 a FOOT for the 30R9, but found it a NAPA for ONLY $7 / foot.

Luckily I only needed ~5 feet to get to the 3/8" steel line in the tunnel.
I have a fuel cell where the spare used to be.

You can also get the "screw drive" hose clamps from Jegs that do not cut the soft hose.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.jegs.com-10819-1319041170.1.jpg)

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Pro.../16050/10002/-1

Notice they did not cut the slots all the way through, so no sharp edges.

I searched about 10 local FLAPS and could NOT find a 3/8" fuel injection hose clamp that would go over the 30R9 WHEN IT HAD A HOSE BARB IN IT.

Stu
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moparrob
post Oct 21 2011, 11:04 PM
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QUOTE


I searched about 10 local FLAPS and could NOT find a 3/8" fuel injection hose clamp that would go over the 30R9 WHEN IT HAD A HOSE BARB IN IT.

Stu



These look like they will work. I'll see when the hose arrives.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i954.photobucket.com-11663-1319259847.1.jpg)
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Mikey914
post Oct 21 2011, 11:42 PM
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Food for thought. If you take off the inspection plate underneath you can install the tank and hoses pretty easily.
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EdwardBlume
post Oct 22 2011, 07:23 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 17 2011, 04:35 PM) *

QUOTE(moparrob @ Oct 16 2011, 10:33 PM) *
I ended up cutting the lines. What a PITA. I broke my Dremel in the process...


Whut? I used my Swiss Army Knife to cut the hoses! They should cut pretty easily, they're just rubber and fabric. I hope you didn't cut the metal fittings coming out the bottom of the tank!

--DD


Oh yeah, the leaking gas tank sprint.
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moparrob
post Oct 22 2011, 11:08 AM
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Fortunately that tank had been dry for 13 years.

I tried to get at those hoses from the bottom (see first pics) and it was impossible. Plus getting stabbed by the sharp edges of that braided hose was a PITA.

Problem is solved for the future now. Ill post pics later of the solution in a new thread.
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