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> Quick Cut Wet Sander?, Anyone have any experience with it?
stephenaki
post Aug 12 2014, 03:29 PM
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Can I get this one dad??
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http://www.quickcutsanders.com/

I saw it today on a show, can't remember the name but it looked like it would be quite useful for those of us that take on body work. Anyone use this product and have experience with it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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7TPorsh
post Aug 12 2014, 03:45 PM
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I think wet sanding should be done by hand with a block wherever possible; but I am no expert.

Did my own car in my garage and get lots of compliments. Anytime you sand )before or after paint) you should use a block and other curved implements (pvc pipes).

There is no quick way to do it right.
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76-914
post Aug 12 2014, 06:06 PM
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HF has one that is <$25. All you need is a compressor, wet/dry disc and a bucket of soapy water. They work pretty damned well, also. BTW, get the good sanding products somewhere else. HF sand papers are crap!
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scotty b
post Aug 12 2014, 06:47 PM
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rust free you say ?
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 12 2014, 04:06 PM) *

HF has one that is <$25. All you need is a compressor, wet/dry disc and a bucket of soapy water. They work pretty damned well, also. BTW, get the good sanding products somewhere else. HF sand papers are crap!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That " kit " is a bunch of overpriced, un-needed stuff. I block most everything by hand then go back with a $40.00 Kobalt d/a with a soft pad on it and 2000 grit paper.
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rick 918-S
post Aug 12 2014, 07:43 PM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Aug 12 2014, 07:47 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 12 2014, 04:06 PM) *

HF has one that is <$25. All you need is a compressor, wet/dry disc and a bucket of soapy water. They work pretty damned well, also. BTW, get the good sanding products somewhere else. HF sand papers are crap!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That " kit " is a bunch of overpriced, un-needed stuff. I block most everything by hand then go back with a $40.00 Kobalt d/a with a soft pad on it and 2000 grit paper.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) after hand blocking I use a soft pad and a 30yr old MA with 3000 grit and a squirt bottle of soapy water.

3 levels of buffing (mostly 2)
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stephenaki
post Aug 14 2014, 05:09 AM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Aug 12 2014, 04:47 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 12 2014, 04:06 PM) *

HF has one that is <$25. All you need is a compressor, wet/dry disc and a bucket of soapy water. They work pretty damned well, also. BTW, get the good sanding products somewhere else. HF sand papers are crap!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That " kit " is a bunch of overpriced, un-needed stuff. I block most everything by hand then go back with a $40.00 Kobalt d/a with a soft pad on it and 2000 grit paper.

I was wondering when you were gonna chime in Scotty. I had never thought of using an orbital until I saw them do it, I always thought hand sanding was the way it was done. I can see where it would cut down time but I can also see where, if you're not careful, you could do damage!
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ThePaintedMan
post Aug 14 2014, 08:33 AM
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Funny, I taught myself but I do it like Scotty and Rick. I think the DA helps give you a final assurance that you got everything... And removes any random straight lines left from blocking. Good thread!
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boogie_man
post Aug 14 2014, 12:52 PM
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^^^^^^^The pros are right. Don't use that crap, we find it leaves them "hazy" when we tried it and still had to go over them by hand.
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scotty b
post Aug 14 2014, 01:35 PM
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rust free you say ?
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I've not had issues with it hazing, BUT the biggest problem is you get one small piece of dirt under that pad and it leaves HEAVY curly q's all over the panel. you have so much slop built up form the sanding you don't know it until you get the panel clean and dry. THEN you have to hand sand it to get those things out.
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