rust in the rocket panel area, any ideas how to handle this rust? Options

[McMark]

It's definitely fixable from a technical point of view, but from a financial point of view it's not fixable. You're going to find a whole separate world of problems on the passenger side of the car. You will be much much much much much much much much farther ahead if you ship a car from CA. It's not that complicated of a process (don't fear it) and there are plenty of members around here that know what they're doing and are willing to go and check out potential cars for you.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.
Buy a new chassis.

It may seems scary right now, but we're pointing you in the right direction. I promise.

[brant]

bender,

its not that its impossible...
but I very much agree with all of those who have advised you to get a different car. Here is how I will frame my arguement.

$$$$$

Plan A to fix your car: if you buy all of the patch panels, welding rod, paint, cutting discs, sawzall blades, and beer for your buddy.... you will have about 6 grand into that shell without a motor, or any mechanicals. Also, your buddy is going to get sick of this project after about 4 months (of evenings and weekends) and possibly quit or even disown you. So you run the risk of loosing a friendship. Not to mention loosing touch with reality, your spare time, your spare money, your girlfriend/spouse.

When you get done you will need to spend another 2-3 thousand on the motor, interior, mechanicals. And after investing all of that time and labour you will have a car worth $4,000

Do you see the math here?
6K + 4K does not equal = 4K

I kid you not.
I know people that started with better shells and have 10 or 20K into their shell with new paint.

Plan B is to buy something else. If you buy a 2K roller and put it together yourself you will still have learned a ton. You will still have the opportunity to have fun with your buddy on smaller projects and you may actually accomplish it in a year or less. When you get done you'll likely have 5-8K into a car that is worth $5,000 because repaired cars (like plan A) are not worth as much as no/low rust cars.

Plan C is probably the best one from a financial standpoint. Borrow, beg, or take out a loan. Buy a NICE car for $5,000 - 6,000. Drive it, wax it, tinker on it. Go to the race track and take drivers education from your local porsche club. When you ever decided to sell it you would be able to sell it for the same 6K or more due to inflation.

( you are not likely to sell it, because you will have so much fun driving it and you won't learn to hate it like you will with trying to fix your current car)

Its your car.
Its not impossible.
but I just hate to see people spend 200% on things.
Not to mention that you have about a 1 in 1000 chance of actually finishing it and getting to drive it.

and isn't driving it part of the point?

If you want to learn to weld so badly. Spend your money on a welding class. or maybe volunteer your time with your buddy on one of his welding projects and let him buy the beer!

brant

[TROJANMAN]

AA CRAP

those pics look like one of the AA jewels sitting in the lot that is overgrown with weeds due to the recent downpours. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[SirAndy]

QUOTE (bender @ Nov 9 2005, 09:08 PM)

what do u think guys?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/barf.gif)
longs are completely rusted away behind those rocker panels ....

run for the hills, that's what i think ...
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif) Andy

[sgomes]

I'll add one note of caution. That car is so badly rusted, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do NOT get underneath it when you jack it up to remove the engine. DO NOT place it on jackstands directly. USE a 2x6 running along each long from front to back. You are going to find that when you try to place anything like a jack or a jack stand under the longs it's going to crunch through.

Please be careful working on that car!

It really sounds like you don't want to give up on her. That's admirable. Just be safe when you are restoring her. There won't be too much left other than the VIN's when your done.

[bender]

guys thanks alot u far to kind realy (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/pray.gif)

a few questions:
1- if the longs rutten, the clumshell wont do the trik 4 it?
2- if ill buy cali car , let say around 1-3K ill get it with the regestration?
3- how long is the shipp from cali to newark , nj?? costs around 800$?

thanks a lot dear dear members

[McMark]

1. The clam shells work, it's the $ the doesn't add up. Clam shell cost a lot, installation costs a lot. I would expect $3000 per side for parts and labor, at least. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)
2. Most CA cars are registered. Ask about it when you buy, but expect them to have it.
3. I don't have any personal experience, but shipping should be pretty quick. Within a month, worst case. I think $800-$1000 is appropriate. I think they charge per mile.

[brant]

I haven't actually shipped a car yet.
but I tried to buy an SVT in boston and went so far as to get shipping quotes for that car.

my quote to colorado from Boston was 850-ish and about 4 days.

brant

[lapuwali]

Shipping on an open trailer for a car that can be driven on and off the trailer is roughly $1200-1500 from the SF Bay Area to New Jersey (shipped a TR6 from here to Warren, NJ last year). They'll usually charge an extra $100 if they have to winch the car on and off the trailer (as in a roller with no engine). Google for auto transport, and you'll get several places to call. I've used Kiwi's Karriers several times:

Kiwi

They're a broker with many contract drivers at the ready.

[bender]

QUOTE (McMark @ Nov 10 2005, 12:10 PM)

1. The clam shells work, it's the $ the doesn't add up. Clam shell cost a lot, installation costs a lot. I would expect $3000 per side for parts and labor, at least. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) 2. Most CA cars are registered. Ask about it when you buy, but expect them to have it. 3. I don't have any personal experience, but shipping should be pretty quick. Within a month, worst case. I think $800-$1000 is appropriate. I think they charge per mile.

the clamshell in autoatlanta is 350$ each side- its not that bad
about work and welding my friend will do me a great price so...
i gess 1500-2000 for the clamshell issue
my question is that- thew clamshell will give me the total answer to the rutten longs?
p.s
it needs to cut out the longs and 2 weld the clamshell??
thanks agian

[McMark]

No the clamshell is only about %65 of the issue. You're only looking at part of the picture.

[Bleyseng]

You still have to fix the rest of the rust in the trunks, inner longs, floor pans etc. That is where the money is to fix that car!

Total waste of time when you can still can get a roller out of cali for 1500-2000 shipped to your door. That will give you a solid chassis to transfer parts to and then be able to drive for years without worry. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dead horse.gif)

[Andyrew]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1131595631.jpg)

This chassis is gone.

It will split in half soon. That crack is the chassis already splitting.

Spend the money and get a good car (best option) that you can drive and modify to your liking. (and drive WHILE you modify, something that I have been fortunate to enjoy.)

Or like everyone is also saying, buy a chassi. Many good examples. Heck, check the classifieds!!!! Theres a blue flared shell thats been in the classfieds for ever.. and a driver for 2k... Project in oregon, looks nice. 1k


Factor in 1k for shipping...

Gl

[brant]

QUOTE (bender @ Nov 10 2005, 02:27 PM)

p.s it needs to cut out the longs and 2 weld the clamshell?? thanks agian

Yes...

if you do any repair to your current car you are wasting your time to not cut out the rotten metal.

If you just cover it up then you can expect the existing rust to rust out your new panels from the inside.

and within a few years your new paint will be bubling also.

Thats part of the trick and skill to restoring a unit body or 914. There is no frame, because the entire car is the frame. So when you cut out the longitudinals, you have to maintain all of the dimensions and measurements very precisely. Most pro shops would use a frame table to do that kind of work. If you mess up or warp the chassis, then you end up with a car that will not take an alignment or else a car where the doors don't shut, or someother problem.

Warping the chassis is a real danger in the door area.

(I still say that you buy a reasonable running car and begin to enjoy it. Even if its a 4K car that needs a paint job. maybe your buddy will cut you a deal on the paint job?)

does the blue car have a known good motor?
how is the interior?
(trying to discern what your up against)

brant

[rhcb914]

Hi Bender,


I don't know what your budget is for a car but I noticed this on Craigs list.

http://boston.craigslist.org/car/108051890.html

I don't know the details on the car but I'm sure one of us local guys could check it out if it's still available. You might even be able to drive it back to NJ.

-Rob

[brant]

Rob,
that car sounds sweet!

and bender,
the 1973 2.0 is considered the cream of the crop for all 4 cylinder 914's.

a lot of guys have driven cars out of cali.
this very club will offer to pitch in and check it out for you.
and the club can help you as a safety net during your drive back to NJ.

brant

[Rouser]

QUOTE (bender @ Nov 10 2005, 12:08 AM)

what do u think guys? i saw that in the firewall no rust, and from what i saw in the engine area nothing seriouse althou i need to take the engine out to really see something..

Man, my bowels loosened just looking at those pics; makes for a great laxative. I see all those leaves and think, "Outside car, couple dozen winters, seasonal rains, rust, rot, rot, rust, rot, rust ..." A cash register's bell would ring in my head as I scrolled through the images.

bender, FORGET this car. Free or not, your gonna wind up $inking $ome $eriou$ $$$ into it, and that's just at the rot we can see. Don't count on others doing all the welding & work for you, cuz they're gonna learn to hate this car after a while. It's old, and it's going to need a LOT of work.

If you had your heart set on a Porsche 914, save your pennys and get a runner; decent $4K - $6K examples are out there, you just have to be patient and search.

[bender]

guys im about to abond my 914 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif)

probebly around december ill seek after a nice cali car "rust free"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
probebly around 1-3K with engine
my engine is ok and driving, the interior is ok and the tranni also
i want to do the springs and shocks sporty
and also the rabys kit for the 170hp so my base sould and be good and rust free!!!!
ill take a few days\weeks to close my opinion
im still amazed from your kindnes and thw willing 2 help
thanks a lot presiouse members

[bender]

QUOTE (brant @ Nov 10 2005, 02:46 PM)

Rob, that car sounds sweet! and bender, the 1973 2.0 is considered the cream of the crop for all 4 cylinder 914's. a lot of guys have driven cars out of cali. this very club will offer to pitch in and check it out for you. and the club can help you as a safety net during your drive back to NJ. brant

how many hourses the 2.0 has?

[McMark]

The factory claimed 90. But, regardless of the numbers, the 2.0 is a blast to drive. Good stuff.