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> Front brake rotor offset, cross over years suck!!!
Jaiden
post Mar 20 2006, 05:43 PM
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Hey all. I got most of the front suspension back on but when I went to put the brake calipers on I noticed that they would not fit over the rotor AND lined up with caliper mounts. SO I removed my new rotors and compared them to the old and found that the rear offset from the rotor surface to the bearing seal surface is deepr on the original rotors.

I had to find this out after I already pressed in the ew bearing races (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

So how can this be? I have the old style strut tubes. When I talked with eric shea about getting my calipers we stated that I have "new" style calipers

So what did the factory do? Old strut tubes and new style brakes on a 72?

I guess I gotta order new rotor and pull out the races qand return the rotors.

Man I hate set backs
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 21 2006, 03:16 PM
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Forgot the pic... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)


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Jaiden
post Mar 21 2006, 07:53 PM
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I ordered the "old style" ball joint so if it is the wrong one then pelican screwed up.

I have the front end bolted together and I have had no problems yet.... but I haven't even had the wheels on yet.

I bet when a DAPPO not the PO swapped the motor for the 75 2.0 they swapped a bunch of parts!!!!

Now I'm really getting pissed. I Might have been lied too or maybe the PO was lied to about the true nature of the car.

Now what is the difference between a new and old A-arm.
There was a slight difference in the ball joint mount area of the A-arm that I got fom Mueller is there any issue with the A-arm? The ball joint bolted up no problem to the A-arm and the strut.
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Jaiden
post Mar 21 2006, 07:57 PM
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Eric how can you tell if it is a new a-arm from that pic?????

I don't see anything that would designate old vs. new.

Oh the A-arm from mueller had the ball joint aligner "cut out" of the flange where my originals had a tab welded to the flange.
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 21 2006, 08:40 PM
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I don't think there's any cause for alarm. I think this is a true cross-over car. The new a-arms do have that ball joint alignment tab set-up a little different (someone here can explain better than I). What I meant was the later a-arms tend to have the u-tabs welded on them regardless...

Now, on to the ball joint. If this is your ball joint, I'd say it's the new style with the notch for the 'pin' (there is a notch there right? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) ). I'd say someone sent you the wrong part if you ordered the old style... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)


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Jaiden
post Mar 21 2006, 10:13 PM
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On my strut housing the bolt goes through the housing and thread into the other side of the pinch joint. If there was not a notch then the bolt would not go through. When I put the strut housing onto the ball joint I had to make sure that I lined up the notch in the ball joint. On one it lined up easy on the other it took 2 tries but the bolt WOULD NOT go through unless the notch was there.

So are you saying that on the old style ball joints there is no notch????

Then how does the ball joint stay attached? just with the clamping force of the pinch joint? I wouldn't trust that at all. At least if the clamping bolt oosened the strut wouldn't just pop out on full suspension extension.

Does anyone have a pic of the old and new styles to compare?
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Jaiden
post Mar 21 2006, 10:35 PM
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Here's a pic that describes the interference that requires the notch:



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Eric_Shea
post Mar 21 2006, 10:41 PM
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I'm going to defer. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

I don't have any old style struts around here anymore. The ones I had, had a straight shaft on the ball joint and they pinched... but, I'm getting old. That may have been a very early style or it may have been a hemp induced flash back.

The new ones I have have the notch but the notch is a "V" shape and a V-Shaped pin goes in there where you have that bolt.

Maybe the Cap'n can weigh in here...
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Jaiden
post Mar 21 2006, 10:50 PM
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Eric,
Thanks for your insights. It's good to get these kind of comments that challenge your thinking so you don't get cocky and make mistakes. Hopefully I won't kill myself when I finally get it back on the road (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)

The notch in the ball joint is round not "V" shaped so I'm now fairly comfortable that the ball joint is correct. If it was a new style it would have a V notch.

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Dave-O
post Mar 22 2006, 12:45 PM
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The "old style" ball joints on my '70 have a round notch in the shaft just like the one shown in the picture above. The pinch bolt must be placed in the strut after the ball joint is inserted.

If this is the system you have I would suggest getting new bolts when you put it together because there will probably be pressure from the ball joint on the bolt and it will trash the threads. Just make sure it is the 10.9 hardness like the stock one.

Hope this helps,
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SLITS
post Mar 22 2006, 01:10 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-1143054529.jpg)
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 22 2006, 04:12 PM
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Humor me guys... did an early 911 ball joint have a straight shaft? Or am I just (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) ?
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davep
post Mar 22 2006, 06:34 PM
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The 914 uses the 911 ball joint if that helps.
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SLITS
post Mar 22 2006, 07:01 PM
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Wonderboy needs to define what "early" is. '65 - '69 used a completely different style.
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 22 2006, 08:17 PM
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It's "Boy Wonder" smartass (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif)

I had a 66 that was made in 65. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 31 2007, 11:58 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)

George... read through this.

See the picture in post #21? It shows the split strut with the later caliper. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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