Taking stock, of what I'm dealing with Options

[stephenaki]

If it was me, I would not wrestle with trying to install cooling flaps with the engine in. I think you have to remove the engine tin which requires removing the intake manifold which requires removing the carb...., "while you're in there", install the FI.

If I had an FI I would but all I gots is Delortos! I want a second opinion!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

OK, silly question...maybe...can you get to the thermostat and flap assemblies WITHOUT dropping the motor and pulling the impeller housing? I want to make sure that this is not the oil leak problem as well but would rather not have to drop the motor again.

Yes and no. You don't have to fully drop the motor. You do have to pull the cooling fan. But you have to think about how you are going to do it. You have to remove the cooling fan and dog house, which requires at least a partial drop. I did it over the summer on my car, so I know it can be done.

First - remove all the tin screws you can get to with the engine in place that attach the side tin to the front tin and the dog house. This task is easier when the car is on the ground. Some screws are under the car, so you will have to wait to get to them.

Put the car as high up as you can get the rear to go. Put a good floor jack under the motor. Remove the front tin at this point. Unbolt the engine bar from the car but not the trans mounts, and slowly lower the engine until you can get to the cooling fan. Pull it. There are now 4 bolts holding on the doghouse, remove them and pull it.

replace your cooling flaps, replace the dog house (have fun with this one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) ) and put all the other stuff you pulled back on the car. Once the engine is secured back in the car, it will be easy to install the bellows. One of the bolts is a through bolt, so if the car is full of oil you will want to be quick about it. Fish the control wire up through the hole in the tin, lower the car and attach everything up top.

Zach

[stephenaki]

OK, silly question...maybe...can you get to the thermostat and flap assemblies WITHOUT dropping the motor and pulling the impeller housing? I want to make sure that this is not the oil leak problem as well but would rather not have to drop the motor again.

Yes and no. You don't have to fully drop the motor. You do have to pull the cooling fan. But you have to think about how you are going to do it. You have to remove the cooling fan and dog house, which requires at least a partial drop. I did it over the summer on my car, so I know it can be done.

First - remove all the tin screws you can get to with the engine in place that attach the side tin to the front tin and the dog house. This task is easier when the car is on the ground. Some screws are under the car, so you will have to wait to get to them.

Put the car as high up as you can get the rear to go. Put a good floor jack under the motor. Remove the front tin at this point. Unbolt the engine bar from the car but not the trans mounts, and slowly lower the engine until you can get to the cooling fan. Pull it. There are now 4 bolts holding on the doghouse, remove them and pull it.

replace your cooling flaps, replace the dog house (have fun with this one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) ) and put all the other stuff you pulled back on the car. Once the engine is secured back in the car, it will be easy to install the bellows. One of the bolts is a through bolt, so if the car is full of oil you will want to be quick about it. Fish the control wire up through the hole in the tin, lower the car and attach everything up top.

Zach

Dude, your'e not making this sound easy! Might be easier to just drop the motor again given my limited space to work in!

[Gint]

especially with the single carb, it takes forever to warm up.

You said a mouthful right there. Even if your cooling system was fully installed and functioning properly you'll continue to have an issue with that single carb and running in cooler weather.

And I'd drop the motor to install cooling flaps etc... Lots easier.

[flipb]

Time to start saving up.

I think I'll get all the major engine work done at once. Still undecided whether to go with dual HPMX or FI, although I'm leaning toward carbs.... But while the engine is pulled, my first "while you're in there" will be to replace the cooling flaps. Are those parts available? (including thermostat)

I also need a clutch adjustment and valve adjustment.

I will probably farm the work out to either ASG in Annandale or Taylor Chapman. I don't have enough time to do it right and I don't want engine parts and a big yellow paperweight sitting around my carport for months.

Unless, of course, somebody from 914w wants to take my car and get some practice with it in exchange for some sort of timeshare driving arrangement. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I buy parts...

[VaccaRabite]

Dude, your'e not making this sound easy! Might be easier to just drop the motor again given my limited space to work in!

Its only worth it if you don't want to have to remove your induction for some reason. in my case it was due to being lazy, and tired of pulling the motor again and again over the summer to fix little problems.

The only hard part was getting the doghouse back on. The flaps like to catch on just about everything.

Zach

[SirAndy]

Double check the the old thermostat and thermostat wheel mounting. One of the two is mounted with a "through" bolt. Meaning, if the PO removed all your flaps related stuff and didn't plug those mounting holes, you'll have a big, permanent oil leak.

Which would explain your oily mess ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

OK, silly question...maybe...can you get to the thermostat and flap assemblies WITHOUT dropping the motor and pulling the impeller housing? I want to make sure that this is not the oil leak problem as well but would rather not have to drop the motor again.

You can check both without dropping the motor.

The thermostat and the wire wheel are both mounted on the lower drivers side of the engine, you can get to both from underneath.

One of the two is mounted with a bolt that goes through the case. If they were removed by the PO and not sealed, you'll have a nice oil leak ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[flipb]

Question #2:
Do the bushings look right? Are they original? Does it look pulled-out just because of the gear the car was in at the time (first), or is it getting ready to fall out?
(IMG:http://lh4.ggpht.com/_adaRwINBOu4/Stu_okx-GTI/AAAAAAAAAos/rkWaa-Eee5s/s800/IMGP0048.JPG)

Sorry, need a little help. PP lists PCG-424-501-01-OEM as "rear shift protection cap". Is that what I need to cover the linkage here?

(They also list 914-424-239-02-OEM as "Transmission Boot, On Rear Shift Protector Cap", but it's NLA.)

[flipb]

Also, just FWIW... at the Potomac PCA Tech insp yesterday at ASG, it was discovered that both my CV boots lack retaining rings. So the CV grease has been flung all over the bottom of the car... that, plus an oil leak accounts for the mess under the car.

[flipb]

Question #2:
Do the bushings look right? Are they original? Does it look pulled-out just because of the gear the car was in at the time (first), or is it getting ready to fall out?
(IMG:http://lh4.ggpht.com/_adaRwINBOu4/Stu_okx-GTI/AAAAAAAAAos/rkWaa-Eee5s/s800/IMGP0048.JPG)

Sorry, need a little help. PP lists PCG-424-501-01-OEM as "rear shift protection cap". Is that what I need to cover the linkage here?

(They also list 914-424-239-02-OEM as "Transmission Boot, On Rear Shift Protector Cap", but it's NLA.)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) Sorry guys, just want to make sure that I get the right part for the shift bushing cover. Little help?

Is this what I need?
(IMG:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/new_images1/914_shifter_cover.JPG)

[type47]

Yes, the pictured cover fits over the linkage. Don't know how close to concours ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) you want to make the car but you could hold the cover on by a stainless steel worm drive clamp that you can get at the local hardware store or go factory clamp when you order the boot cover. The other cover you listed as a rear cover might be the one for a "tail shifter". I don't think the bushing is about to fall out, it's just that it moves in the "cup" for different gears. It was nice to meet you at the tech.

[flipb]

Yes, the pictured cover fits over the linkage. Don't know how close to concours ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) you want to make the car but you could hold the cover on by a stainless steel worm drive clamp that you can get at the local hardware store or go factory clamp when you order the boot cover. The other cover you listed as a rear cover might be the one for a "tail shifter". I don't think the bushing is about to fall out, it's just that it moves in the "cup" for different gears. It was nice to meet you at the tech.

Thanks, Jim. Great meeting you too. And Josh, if you're reading this... your car looks even better in person. Got home from the tech and read your whole build thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[flipb]

Figured I'd re-awaken my old thread to share my updates. Pretty much a shameless "pat myself on the back" thread.

Bought the car in September of 2009.

First winter: New clutch & Flywheel, valve adjustment, new shift bushings, clean up & tune up, reinstall MIA cooling flaps & thermostat, replace fuel pump

Second winter: Replace Weber Progressive with dual 40mm EMPI carbs. Replace Master Cylinder after it pissed out all the fluid from the rear brakes circuit. Replaced headlights with H4's. Today I got my sisal mats from Cocomats.com - they look fantastic and could pass for OEM.

Current projects: Stainless rockers are off the car (First time I've had them off, longs look pristine underneath, although I know some of it was reconstructed by a PO), they'll be getting powder coated this week. I'd like to figure out why the radio quit working recently (no fuses appear blown). Carbs need tuning. Odometer hasn't worked as long as I've owned the car and speedo is bouncy - I have a new GEMO speedo cable but I think I might need a new angle drive too.

Other than carbs and Monza exhaust, it's very original mechanically... including narrow tires, brakes, suspension. I'm bringing her to Summit Point in April for the PCA chapter's High Performance Driving Clinic - kind of an intro course. I'm nervous about what mechanical issues could result from pushing hard on the track, but I push pretty hard on twisty roads too... and so far, so good.

And I've managed all of this without owning a set of jackstands! It is the expensive way to go, however...

[type47]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) way to go with all the jobs on your car. Good weather in NOVA will be here soon. If your speedo needle works but your odo doesn't, then the speedo cable and the angle drive are OK. If your odo doesn't work, chances are it's the little plastic gear inside has cracked or split and no longer holds tension on the shaft and can't turn the numbers. Investigate North Hollywood Speedo or Palo Alto Speedo to send gauge for refurbishing.

Have fun at Summit. I've signed up for a Jun 5 weekend and Halloween weekend DE's.

First Potomac PCA tech is coming up Mar 19. Not a requirement for HPDC but you can get your car up on a lift and have a look-see.