Thread On Relocating Fuel Pump? Options

[kenshapiro2002]

I swear...I searched. Can't get down to less than 53 pages,and none of the first few pages have any pictures. I do remember seeing some thread here...I think...help?

[neil30076]

Sure, It's the black one on my wiring diagram - should be +12 with the ignition in the run position.
Don't hold your breath on the instructions for the SS line - remove all the access panels for the tunnel, just get your rear ( the car that is) up as high as you can, remove right rear wheel ( passenger side) pull the old lines, and start threading the new line in, takes a few twists and turns, but if you are lucky it'll go through first time, watch you don't get hooked around the clutch or other bits in there. Put the large rubber grommet at the tank end after you have got the line in, your chances of feeding through that are slim!
Good luck.
Neil

[kenshapiro2002]

That's what the instructions from Tangerine say too...really. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Hey...why is there a clutch in your tunnel? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Sure, It's the black one on my wiring diagram - should be +12 with the ignition in the run position.
Don't hold your breath on the instructions for the SS line - remove all the access panels for the tunnel, just get your rear ( the car that is) up as high as you can, remove right rear wheel ( passenger side) pull the old lines, and start threading the new line in, takes a few twists and turns, but if you are lucky it'll go through first time, watch you don't get hooked around the clutch or other bits in there. Put the large rubber grommet at the tank end after you have got the line in, your chances of feeding through that are slim!
Good luck.
Neil

[kenshapiro2002]

Question...on the late model access panel, the mount for the fuel pump is off center. Seems nonsensical to me since you can mount the pump to the bracket atany spot on the pump...it's just a hose type clamp.

[kenshapiro2002]

Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?

[SirAndy]

Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?

Just clamp a bolt in a short piece of fuel line ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (seriously)

Actually, the better approach would be to *use* the return line. There's no reason why you can't, in fact, you might gain a thing or two ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy

[kenshapiro2002]

Do tell (seriously)... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?

Just clamp a bolt in a short piece of fuel line ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (seriously)

Actually, the better approach would be to *use* the return line. There's no reason why you can't, in fact, you might gain a thing or two ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy

[VaccaRabite]

The way your carbs currently work, they fill the carb bowl, and the ball valve cuts off flow. Because the pump only works at 3psi, it does not have the oomph to overcome the ball valve to flood the carbs.

You can plumb the carbs in such a way that the overflow goes back to the tank, probably by using a regulator. in theory, this might be easier on your pump, as it would not be pumping against zero flow. And it would be helpful to be SURE that you are not flooding your carbs.

I don't do it, personally. Since you have the CD rotary pump (I think you ordered that, right?), you don't need to regulate against overflow and over/under pressure.

Zach

[kenshapiro2002]

I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?

The way your carbs currently work, they fill the carb bowl, and the ball valve cuts off flow. Because the pump only works at 3psi, it does not have the oomph to overcome the ball valve to flood the carbs.

You can plumb the carbs in such a way that the overflow goes back to the tank, probably by using a regulator. in theory, this might be easier on your pump, as it would not be pumping against zero flow. And it would be helpful to be SURE that you are not flooding your carbs.

I don't do it, personally. Since you have the CD rotary pump (I think you ordered that, right?), you don't need to regulate against overflow and over/under pressure.

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?

You coming to Joe's tonight? I'm going to take my 914, I think. You can see it in person.

The carpet has a cut out for the pump cover in later cars, I think... I have not put that part of the carpet back in on my car yet. It is meant to be easily reached.

Zach

[kenshapiro2002]

No...kept waiting for a post back saying it was on, and it never happened...taking the Harley to Fells Point. Ummmmm mussels!

I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?

You coming to Joe's tonight? I'm going to take my 914, I think. You can see it in person.

The carpet has a cut out for the pump cover in later cars, I think... I have not put that part of the carpet back in on my car yet. It is meant to be easily reached.

Zach

[VaccaRabite]

Boooo!

[kenshapiro2002]

The tank is empty...siphoned it almost empty and then just just ran it dry. So, after I get everything together, is it prudent to run the first bit of fuel into a container to make sure everything is clean?

[curt914]

"pick up the wire off #15 on the ignition switch, run it through an in-line 15A fuse to the new position, much easier than trying to reroute the old wire."

I dont want to be a party pooper and admittedly I am at work and cant check out a wiring diagrahm so Im not sure about #15, but....

The stock fuel pump is powered through a relay on the stock (fuel injection) configuration, yes?

I believe one of the reasons for that is that the ignition switch contacts were not designed for the load (as in current draw) that a fuel pump would present to those contacts for the entire time the car is on.

What I did was to buy an automotive relay and let the ignition switch power the low current section of the relay. That puts little extra load on the switch contacts.
The fuel pump is powered thru the high current section of the relay.
The relay is mounted up front on one of the vertical braces.


IF you were leaving your fuel pump in the back, you would use the relay already intended for the stock (fuel injection) fuel pump.
Its mounted on the relay board in the engine compartment. Some folks use that relay and just drag the wire up front
thru the tunnel if they are relocating the pump to up front. Pick your poisin I guess.

But I think a relay is the correct solution whether its one you add up front or the one already hanging out on your relay board in the back.

Good luck

Curt

BTW, another no-no about powering fuel pump Ive come across is that you should never power it from the coil. It's convienient and handy to do so, because the power to the coil goes on and off with the ignition, and its close to those new carbs...just what the doctor ordered. But apparently its not a good idea.

[kenshapiro2002]

Thanks. Being pretty much a rookie at electrical stuff, I'm gonna play it safe and just run the (+) wire forward and ground it up at the headlight ground point.

"pick up the wire off #15 on the ignition switch, run it through an in-line 15A fuse to the new position, much easier than trying to reroute the old wire."

I dont want to be a party pooper and admittedly I am at work and cant check out a wiring diagrahm so Im not sure about #15, but....

The stock fuel pump is powered through a relay on the stock (fuel injection) configuration, yes?

I believe one of the reasons for that is that the ignition switch contacts were not designed for the load (as in current draw) that a fuel pump would present to those contacts for the entire time the car is on.

What I did was to buy an automotive relay and let the ignition switch power the low current section of the relay. That puts little extra load on the switch contacts.
The fuel pump is powered thru the high current section of the relay.
The relay is mounted up front on one of the vertical braces.


IF you were leaving your fuel pump in the back, you would use the relay already intended for the stock (fuel injection) fuel pump.
Its mounted on the relay board in the engine compartment. Some folks use that relay and just drag the wire up front
thru the tunnel if they are relocating the pump to up front. Pick your poisin I guess.

But I think a relay is the correct solution whether its one you add up front or the one already hanging out on your relay board in the back.

Good luck

Curt

BTW, another no-no about powering fuel pump Ive come across is that you should never power it from the coil. It's convienient and handy to do so, because the power to the coil goes on and off with the ignition, and its close to those new carbs...just what the doctor ordered. But apparently its not a good idea.