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> Glass fuel filters- What are your thoughts?, Yea or Ney?
URY914
post Oct 23 2009, 02:23 PM
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These things have been around for a long time. VW guys have been using them forever. Advanages being you can see the junk thru the glass and you can clean and reuse them. They are cheap at about $8.00.

Down side is they are glass and can break. IIRC they are not SCCA legal for this reason. If you use them do you install them in the engine compartment where it is less likely to be hit by a rock and break. But when they do break they allow gas to cover the engine. Or do you mount them up under the engine shelf out of the way so when they break they dump gas on the road? Has anyone ever heard of one breaking?

I have one for my street car and don't know if I should install it or get a typical OEM plastic/steel body one from my FLAPS.

What say you???







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J P Stein
post Oct 24 2009, 08:49 AM
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I've beed using one made by Russell (AN fittings) in conjunction with SS braided lines for 10-12 years. It's clear but I'm can't tell if it's glass or plastic tho I think it's the fromer. Mounted on the rear firewall. I clean it ever couple years. No leaks or breakage. I have no carb issues either. Ain't I lucky.
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ME733
post Oct 24 2009, 09:29 AM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Oct 24 2009, 10:49 AM) *

I've beed using one made by Russell (AN fittings) in conjunction with SS braided lines for 10-12 years. It's clear but I'm can't tell if it's glass or plastic tho I think it's the fromer. Mounted on the rear firewall. I clean it ever couple years. No leaks or breakage. I have no carb issues either. Ain't I lucky.

YES
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 24 2009, 09:32 AM
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Please show pictures...getting ready to do this next week. Converting my '70 to pump-up-front with an access panel off of a late model too.


QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 23 2009, 10:41 PM) *

Now I have a clean tank, new hoses, and new filter. It also didn't have a fuel pressure regulater so I added one. I'll finish the install tomorrow a.m.

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zymurgist
post Oct 24 2009, 09:44 AM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 23 2009, 10:38 PM) *

And the hose between the tank and the fuel line in the tunnel? It was crap also.
An accident waiting to happen...


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aircooledtechguy
post Oct 24 2009, 11:27 AM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 23 2009, 07:38 PM) *

And the hose between the tank and the fuel line in the tunnel? It was crap also.
An accident waiting to happen...

I would also recommend ditching those clamps you were using and switch to either of these since these styles won't cut into the hose and cause leaks. . .

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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 24 2009, 12:00 PM
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Confused (not the first time)...how are his clamps different form the second one in your recommended example?
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rfuerst911sc
post Oct 24 2009, 04:12 PM
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QUOTE(bcheney @ Oct 23 2009, 06:24 PM) *

I agree about the glass type...not good...Rick, where did you get the metal can type filters? Do you have any pics of what they look like?



Hi Brian the front fuel filter came with the CB Performance rotary fuel pump but it's a standard looking fuel filter can. The one I installed in the engine compartment is a Purolator # 54618. It's a standard can but comes in/on a mounting plate. This size with the plate fit perfect next to my battery and bolted to a plate near the battery towards the rear. Not sure what OEM part normally bolted on there.
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Katmanken
post Oct 24 2009, 10:19 PM
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I ran those things on my Karmann Ghia and my wife's bug for over 10 years with no problems.

Of course, the country of manufacture AND quality has probably changed by now......
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Cevan
post Oct 24 2009, 10:25 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 24 2009, 02:00 PM) *

Confused (not the first time)...how are his clamps different form the second one in your recommended example?


I think he means use the first one (FI style clamp) and not the second one, which will cut into the hose.
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ClayPerrine
post Oct 24 2009, 10:35 PM
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I use a small Ford carburetor fuel filter in front of the FI pump. This is on the suction side of the pump, so it never receives any high pressure. I found one that has the same size fitting as the large line on the tank, and the other side is a threaded pipe fitting. I hook a barb that has the same size fitting as the pump to it. That keeps the crap out of the pump. I did this because the sock in the tank had disintegrated, and when I checked they were NLA.


On the pressure side of the FI pump, before the injectors, I put in a filter from a Fuel Injected Nissan. It is quite capable of handling over 60 psi, and has the proper size fittings on both the inlet and the outlet to insert inline inside the engine compartment.


I don't remember the part number on the Ford filter, but it is a common one. I pull the old one and go buy a new one.

The inline filter was the same one used on my 87 Nissan Pulsar.


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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 24 2009, 10:54 PM
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That would make sense, but he said "I would also recommend ditching those clamps you were using and switch to either of these since these styles won't cut into the hose and cause leaks. . ."



QUOTE(Cevan @ Oct 25 2009, 12:25 AM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 24 2009, 02:00 PM) *

Confused (not the first time)...how are his clamps different form the second one in your recommended example?


I think he means use the first one (FI style clamp) and not the second one, which will cut into the hose.

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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 24 2009, 10:56 PM
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The fuel tanks socks are definitely available...got one today from AA.


QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Oct 25 2009, 12:35 AM) *

I use a small Ford carburetor fuel filter in front of the FI pump. This is on the suction side of the pump, so it never receives any high pressure. I found one that has the same size fitting as the large line on the tank, and the other side is a threaded pipe fitting. I hook a barb that has the same size fitting as the pump to it. That keeps the crap out of the pump. I did this because the sock in the tank had disintegrated, and when I checked they were NLA.


On the pressure side of the FI pump, before the injectors, I put in a filter from a Fuel Injected Nissan. It is quite capable of handling over 60 psi, and has the proper size fittings on both the inlet and the outlet to insert inline inside the engine compartment.


I don't remember the part number on the Ford filter, but it is a common one. I pull the old one and go buy a new one.

The inline filter was the same one used on my 87 Nissan Pulsar.

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type47
post Oct 25 2009, 07:37 AM
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I am hoping that the 2 clamps shown are OK to use as a VW mechanic installed the second one on an engine of mine. I think the clamp to avoid is the common hose clamp that you buy at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace where there are slots in the band which can cut the hose and therefore cause leaks, although, on second thought, one of the clamps pictured would seem to do the same. Factory FI clamps even have a slight upturned edge
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URY914
post Oct 25 2009, 08:13 PM
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I have changed all the rubber hoses, the fuel filter, and added a pressure regulator. Today I completed it all. Drove it and it still backfires thru the left side carb when I'm running steady in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm . Tried adjusting the idle screw all the way in and out on both throats and it nearly died so jets are not clogged.

I need to check to see if they are syn'd properly.

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type2man
post Oct 25 2009, 08:20 PM
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You might have an intake leak. Does it idle smooth after about 20 seconds of being at idle. Mine didn't idle smooth, it used to stumble, turns out I had an intake leak on one of the intakes that caused a popping while crusing on the expressway.
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URY914
post Oct 25 2009, 08:48 PM
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I'll check again but I've snuged things down pretty tight.

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carr914
post Oct 25 2009, 09:23 PM
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I've always run a BMW metal cannister filter that's the size of a Fosters beer can. I mount a bicycle water bottle cage to hold it.

T.C.

Paul, I thought your car sounded a little rough leaving the other day.
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JazonJJordan
post Oct 25 2009, 11:37 PM
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My 66 Chevy Pickup had one (still does today-) for 30 years and no problems but the concern is justified.
In the engine compartment hanging over a 160+degree engine and
too many parts to spark like the HiAmp starter a foot away,
does not seems wise.
Even if I have had no issues ...yet.
A pool of gas under the car -anywhere-
could be a disastrous end to you and yours.
For those old gas water heater garages- it really could be. Even just a crack.
I like them myself and they function. But they function at too much a risk for me on this car but would gladly have a clear plastic version. Relocated of course.
Good luck-
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campbellcj
post Oct 26 2009, 12:53 AM
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I have a large metal Canton filter up front and a metal inline filter (forgot the brand) in the engine compartment near the regulator and pressure gauge - both AN-6 screw-on types. The glass scares the crap out of me and plastic almost as much, knowing how a lot of people tend to neglect inspecting/replacing such things on their cars. Present company excepted, of course. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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ME733
post Oct 26 2009, 11:11 AM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 25 2009, 10:13 PM) *

I have changed all the rubber hoses, the fuel filter, and added a pressure regulator. Today I completed it all. Drove it and it still backfires thru the left side carb when I'm running steady in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm . Tried adjusting the idle screw all the way in and out on both throats and it nearly died so jets are not clogged.

I need to check to see if they are syn'd properly.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ..(.assumption the carburators are perfectly adjusted , inc. all linkages) float levels and float needle are perfect and not "hanging up"(or down) . THEN, well maybe....remove carbs and dump out the accumulated WATER., drain, fuel in tank check for WATER.. install NEW fuel filters .AND/ OR...valves need adjusting , broken valve spring, bent valve(s). head needs valve job.etc..Look for the reason the intake charge is reversing during the firing cycle.("BLOWING BACK"). Too early ignition timing can also be a problem.worn or bouncing points.loose wiring , breaker plate or points, in distributor...misreading the T.D.C.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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