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> Glass fuel filters- What are your thoughts?, Yea or Ney?
IronHillRestorations
post Oct 26 2009, 12:19 PM
Post #41


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I ran a CR glass filter for years without any problem. The reason I got that one is you could put a 3/8" barb on one side and a 5/16" on the output side. At the time (1984) it was the only decent looking aftermarket fuel filter at my FLAPS.

I wouldn't use one today though, as CR probably has them made in China, and you can get all kinds of metal canister filters.
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aircooledtechguy
post Oct 26 2009, 08:06 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 24 2009, 11:00 AM) *

Confused (not the first time)...how are his clamps different form the second one in your recommended example?

Sorry. It's probably hard to tell from the second photo, but the second clamp is actually a "stamped" clamp meaning there are no holes in the clamp to cut through the hose. whereas the clamps on his hose use slots cut into the band for the worm gear to grab hold of as it tightens. This allows the edges of the clamp to grab the rubber and cut into it as it tightens. Not right away but over a few months the clamp will cut in and become loose causing possible leaks under the tank. That's not an issue on the stamped type or the band type.

Sorry for the confusion. . .
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URY914
post Oct 26 2009, 08:11 PM
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I was laid off from my job this afternoon. I have plenty of time now to look for the problem
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 26 2009, 08:14 PM
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Thanks!


QUOTE(aircooledtechguy @ Oct 26 2009, 10:06 PM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 24 2009, 11:00 AM) *

Confused (not the first time)...how are his clamps different form the second one in your recommended example?

Sorry. It's probably hard to tell from the second photo, but the second clamp is actually a "stamped" clamp meaning there are no holes in the clamp to cut through the hose. whereas the clamps on his hose use slots cut into the band for the worm gear to grab hold of as it tightens. This allows the edges of the clamp to grab the rubber and cut into it as it tightens. Not right away but over a few months the clamp will cut in and become loose causing possible leaks under the tank. That's not an issue on the stamped type or the band type.

Sorry for the confusion. . .
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 26 2009, 08:15 PM
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I love not working!

QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 26 2009, 10:11 PM) *

I was laid off from my job this afternoon. I have plenty of time now to look for the problem
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URY914
post Oct 26 2009, 08:27 PM
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tat2dphreak
post Oct 26 2009, 09:22 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 26 2009, 09:11 PM) *

I was laid off from my job this afternoon. I have plenty of time now to look for the problem

that sucks man, I'm sorry to hear that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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ClayPerrine
post Oct 26 2009, 10:02 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 26 2009, 08:27 PM) *

Not working will be great. Not getting paid will be a bitch.



I am in my 8th month of unemployment. It sucks when you are used to getting up and going to work.

It also makes you feel like a real loser......



Keep looking. You will find something.
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URY914
post Oct 29 2009, 08:54 PM
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I think I found the real problem this afternoon. The car was still running like shit with the left side carb back popping and I couldn't get it to idle properly.

I was thinking it must be a air leak but everything was tight. I took some carb cleaner and sprayed it at the manifold to cylinder head gasket right between the two barrels, where the single stud is. The engine raced up the RPM. I found it! So I tighten down the nut on the stud. Spray it again and get the same result. Engine races. WTF?

I look at the studs and notice the center stud has twice has much sticking out from the nut than the other two. The others have about 5 threads showing and the center one has 10-12 threads showing. I pull the carb and manifold off the head and the center stud is not the same as the others. It has a non threaded shoulder that is keeping it from threading into the head. The manifold has a thin base on it. When the manifold is installed over this stud, the nut contacts the shoulder before it is able to tighten the manifold base to the head. The nut is tight but not the manifold.

I double nutted the stud and backed it out. It came out with ease. I replaced it with a bolt and tightened down. The manifold is tight to the head now. I fired it up and drove it around the block. It drove like a new car... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 29 2009, 08:59 PM
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Doesn't that shit feel great!
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URY914
post Oct 29 2009, 09:16 PM
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It's always somethin' with these cars......
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sww914
post Oct 29 2009, 11:33 PM
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I liked collecting unemployment. My house was clean and I got good at video games.
Those glass filters are junk, they unscrew themselves regularly.
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Justinp71
post Oct 29 2009, 11:47 PM
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I know a guy that's engine caught on fire from a glass filter...
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 30 2009, 05:27 AM
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State pension is even better...doesn't run out. Now, if the fuckin' Republicans will stop effin' around, your benefits will get extended 13-20 weeks.


QUOTE(sww914 @ Oct 30 2009, 01:33 AM) *

I liked collecting unemployment. My house was clean and I got good at video games.
Those glass filters are junk, they unscrew themselves regularly.
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URY914
post Oct 30 2009, 04:30 PM
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I returned the glass filter today to the shop I bought it from. My carb linkage decided to break while I was these so I fixed that.
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Rod
post Oct 30 2009, 05:03 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Oct 30 2009, 02:54 AM) *

I think I found the real problem this afternoon. The car was still running like shit with the left side carb back popping and I couldn't get it to idle properly.

I was thinking it must be a air leak but everything was tight. I took some carb cleaner and sprayed it at the manifold to cylinder head gasket right between the two barrels, where the single stud is. The engine raced up the RPM. I found it! So I tighten down the nut on the stud. Spray it again and get the same result. Engine races. WTF?

I look at the studs and notice the center stud has twice has much sticking out from the nut than the other two. The others have about 5 threads showing and the center one has 10-12 threads showing. I pull the carb and manifold off the head and the center stud is not the same as the others. It has a non threaded shoulder that is keeping it from threading into the head. The manifold has a thin base on it. When the manifold is installed over this stud, the nut contacts the shoulder before it is able to tighten the manifold base to the head. The nut is tight but not the manifold.

I double nutted the stud and backed it out. It came out with ease. I replaced it with a bolt and tightened down. The manifold is tight to the head now. I fired it up and drove it around the block. It drove like a new car... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Superb! Not so great about the job, sorry to her that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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