Intake runner paint - what's the best match? |
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914/4: 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 914/6: 70 71 72
Intake runner paint - what's the best match? |
tod914 |
Nov 12 2009, 05:34 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Looking to refinish my intake runners. What is closest matte/low gloss finish you guys have found? Does it need to be a high temp paint? Is it the same as the muffler paint? Danka
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IronHillRestorations |
Nov 12 2009, 07:12 PM
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#2
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,716 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
There's a Duplicolor engine paint that is close in color, but too shiney. The closest thing I've found is cold galvanizing paint.
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Tom_T |
Nov 12 2009, 08:36 PM
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#3
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
A pic of the actual OE finish might help Tod, myself & others on this.
I thought it was close to the grey on the mufflers on mine?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) In which case, there was that paint from the 356 resto place here: http://www.nlaparts.com/store/exhaust-grey-paint-p-653.html It was recco'd a while back on another O&H thread for proper paint on mufflers, |
tod914 |
Nov 12 2009, 09:13 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
It's a little more of a blue grey than the muffler from what I recall, but seems quite close. Perry, by chance do you have a manufacturer & paint code for that? I see Wurth makes a grey vw laquer, but I'm guessing it would be a gloss.
Tom, mine were also refinished in a light grey gloss which I don't like. |
tod914 |
Nov 12 2009, 09:26 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Just googled it. The different brands vary abit in tint. This one seems close after looking at the engine thread.
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/a_rail.asp |
scotty b |
Nov 12 2009, 09:43 PM
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#6
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Surprisingly enough I found Rustoleum has a grey in their " Professional " line that is pretty damn close. I put it side by side to the factory paint and was pleased
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Tom_T |
Nov 12 2009, 10:36 PM
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#7
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
It's a little more of a blue grey than the muffler from what I recall, but seems quite close. Perry, by chance do you have a manufacturer & paint code for that? I see Wurth makes a grey vw laquer, but I'm guessing it would be a gloss. Tom, mine were also refinished in a light grey gloss which I don't like. Tod, mine were never refinished & the cropped pic below I just found for you of my early-73 914-2.0's engine bay with a peek at them FYI. It almost looks like a satin or low-sheen grey enamel, but that could also be due to years of use & the mechanics cleaning them with stuff between 11/72 & 5/85 when it was a DD. BTW - Wurth also makes a flat or satin grey, but I don't think it's hi-temp, & then there are several other hi-temp greys in flat & satin around. IMHO - I don't think it was OE a zinc, but I could call my mechanic tomorrow & ask him if he recalls (Hans is an old hand German factory trained on the 914s)?? Hope this helps! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Tom_T |
Nov 12 2009, 10:39 PM
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#8
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Don't ask how the H**L that leaf got in there, it's been on blocks in the Garage for 24 years, & only out a couple of times to change out the oil, etc.! ....must've dropped in from the tree above the garage/driveway then!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
tod914 |
Nov 12 2009, 10:41 PM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Thanks guys. Scotty I was looking at the Rustoleum site. Tons of greys on there. By chance would still know which one it was? Looks like they have code numbers on the cans. Thanks.
Perry I tried that Ford Grey Engine Enamel for a pair of Boges and the branch tubes for the heating. It's close for the duct work, but abit light for the shocks. I'll tell you, these paints they used are extremely difficult to match. Especially the engine tin. Close, but no cigar. |
Tom_T |
Nov 13 2009, 12:16 AM
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#10
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Thanks guys. Scotty I was looking at the Rustoleum site. Tons of greys on there. By chance would still know which one it was? Looks like they have code numbers on the cans. Thanks. Perry I tried that Ford Grey Engine Enamel for a pair of Boges and the branch tubes for the heating. It's close for the duct work, but abit light for the shocks. I'll tell you, these paints they used are extremely difficult to match. Especially the engine tin. Close, but no cigar. Let me know when you find one for these & the engine tin, as I'll need to do mine too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
tod914 |
Nov 13 2009, 08:35 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing ? maybe ?
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Nov 13 2009, 08:45 AM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,835 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
Looking to refinish my intake runners. What is closest matte/low gloss finish you guys have found? Does it need to be a high temp paint? Is it the same as the muffler paint? Danka Wurth zinc spray is dead on down to the exact texture and the original stuff the factory used. Plenty on the shelf here at Automobile Atlanta |
ME733 |
Nov 13 2009, 09:15 AM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 842 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Atlanta Ga. Member No.: 9,209 Region Association: South East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ...Hello Tom,....well if you are going for a near concorse apperance, and you want the paint to last, and be cleanable without the paint having major problems...In other words last as long as possable, ...I would have everything powder coated. All sheetmetal, everything....Or .painted with ..."IMRON.".polyurethane enamel..Requires hardner...DUPONT product ...(if available) or equivelant. 1. most powder coating "painters" can custom match most anything. They are mixing powder colors. Have a few samples done of various "mixes" and choose the color that suits you or is "the match". 2. Have all the sheetmetal, intake runners, etc painted by a professional , color matched to original colors with a high temperature resistant paint. I have had very good results with "Imron" in the past but there are newer paints that are just as good, and less toxic. Consult a Good auto paint shop,and some "powder painting" shops. The processes, techniques, materials, and quality seem to be ever changing in a positive direction. BTW I am not a "concourse "oriented person.....for your consideration.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Tom_T |
Nov 13 2009, 12:06 PM
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#14
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Murry - Thanx for the valuable input (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
- is that "Imron" or "Ameron" paints? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I googled for "Emron" & nothing related came up. BTW - my wife's Dad was an exec for Ameron in Little Rock, but they're now owned by another conglomerate, but if it was them, I can ask my brother-in-law in LR what they're called now, since he lives near the plant. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Tod - one thing I'm mindful of - as Murry stated - is the long term care & longevity of the coatings which we use on our "Babies" - perhaps more so with me since I have & plan to keep mine "forever", whereas yourself & others have rolled through a few 914s. In that light, the OE coating on mine looks at least "semi-shiny" probably do facilitate cleaning oil & engine gunk off of it. A pure flat finish won't clean up well at all & tends to grip the crud! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ....not too dissimilar from using semi-gloss or gloss paint in a kitchen or bathroom. If George says the Wurth Zinc is dead on the OE, then that's probably the "A Ticket" & it will preserve them due to the high zinc content in that primer/finish. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
tod914 |
Nov 13 2009, 12:20 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
I have the Wurth distributor not too far from here. I tried that zinc paint once from them and it would brush off with your hand. Must of got a bad batch. Maybe I give that a try. All the high temp grey paints seem to be gloss.
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ME733 |
Nov 13 2009, 12:40 PM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 842 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Atlanta Ga. Member No.: 9,209 Region Association: South East States |
Murry - Thanx for the valuable input (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) - is that "Imron" or "Ameron" paints? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I googled for "Emron" & nothing related came up. BTW - my wife's Dad was an exec for Ameron in Little Rock, but they're now owned by another conglomerate, but if it was them, I can ask my brother-in-law in LR what they're called now, since he lives near the plant. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Tod - one thing I'm mindful of - as Murry stated - is the long term care & longevity of the coatings which we use on our "Babies" - perhaps more so with me since I have & plan to keep mine "forever", whereas yourself & others have rolled through a few 914s. In that light, the OE coating on mine looks at least "semi-shiny" probably do facilitate cleaning oil & engine gunk off of it. A pure flat finish won't clean up well at all & tends to grip the crud! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ....not too dissimilar from using semi-gloss or gloss paint in a kitchen or bathroom. If George says the Wurth Zinc is dead on the OE, then that's probably the "A Ticket" & it will preserve them due to the high zinc content in that primer/finish. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)... oops.....Had to go get the can out to remember the spelling (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) , post revised for added info...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
Tom_T |
Nov 13 2009, 12:59 PM
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#17
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
FYI y'all - Imron polyurethane 2-part paint by Dupont (one of the high end resto/body-&-paint shops' highly recommended brands - along with PPG (as well as some Euro brands for Porsches, etc.).
http://www2.dupont.com/Products/en_RU/Imron_en.html BTW minor factoid - this polyurethane paint/coating of today is based on the patents by my Dad & some other chemists at Koppers in Pittsburgh PA dating from the late 1950s-60s. He had my brothers & I help him as kids to paint every 3rd board to panel our basement with the polyurethane varnish which we all see/use today, each being a 1 pt. can of a different formula, to test them out! He passed last Dec 08, but he told my kids about it, & we stopped by the old house there to trade that story & some advice on groundwater leakage problems for the current owner, for showing my kids & I the house & basement with the paneling still intact & in good shape for45+ years old! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
ME733 |
Nov 13 2009, 01:26 PM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 842 Joined: 25-June 08 From: Atlanta Ga. Member No.: 9,209 Region Association: South East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ...TOM.. very cool, history Your dad was a , genus, genious, gennus...OH HELL ...smart . (just where is the spell checker, damn it!!!!..)...BTW bet your dad had the place well ventilated......THIS IS IMPORTANT....when using IMRON. use it in a very well ventilated area., or outside (like I did.) wearing a filter mask is absolutely essential.....This stuff can kill you if used in an enclosed area w/o ventilation....RUMOR HAD IT,.... that very unfortunate things can happen if you DISREGUARD the DANGER warning on the IMRON paint can. I used IMRON on all engine sheetmetal, for years, and never had any heat discoloration problems, fading, chalking, etc. etc. the Stuff,s bullit proof. The phisolophy of do it once , do it right , To me , certainly applies to IMRON.
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Tom_T |
Nov 13 2009, 01:35 PM
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#19
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ...TOM.. very cool, history Your dad was a , genus, genious, gennus...OH HELL ...smart . (just where is the spell checker, damn it!!!!..)...BTW bet your dad had the place well ventilated......THIS IS IMPORTANT....when using IMRON. use it in a very well ventilated area., or outside (like I did.) wearing a filter mask is absolutely essential.....This stuff can kill you if used in an enclosed area w/o ventilation....RUMOR HAD IT,.... that very unfortunate things can happen if you DISREGUARD the DANGER warning on the IMRON paint can. I used IMRON on all engine sheetmetal, for years, and never had any heat discoloration problems, fading, chalking, etc. etc. the Stuff,s bullit proof. The phisolophy of do it once , do it right , To me , certainly applies to IMRON. Oh heck, he's dead now, spelling won't matter - I'm sure he knows what you mean! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Those formulations were in the can & 1 part, so less VOCs (as are the newer Imron II products at their website), & we just brushed it on with the doors & windows open in warm weather......but then we didn't think of such things back then! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) It doesn't seem to have affected me much though! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) |
tod914 |
Nov 13 2009, 05:46 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
Very cool story Tom. I got a responce from ZRC in regards to their product. So a nogo on that one.
" Hi again, Mr. Worden. I apologize for the delay; I wanted to run this past our chemist. He thinks you’d be much better off using an automotive engine paint that’s made for high heat. The reason is this: When the car is on, the engine heats up. Then when you turn it off it cools down. That makes the coating expand and contract. And that will cause the ZRC to flake off. So you’re better off having the automotive engine paint that is only a barrier paint but will stay on than a galvanizing coating that won’t last. Sorry we can’t help you with this one. Lorraine DeWald ZRC " |
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