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> My car refuses to shift into 2 gear, I have no clue were to start
John
post Mar 28 2004, 02:13 AM
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That car looks really really dirty/muddy. Is the dirt there red/orange or is it just the pics?

Have you drained the trans yet? If notI would suggest draining the gear oil out and refilling with new 80-90W gear oil. Brand is not as important as having it clean. Besides, I would suggest changing it rather soon again (to try to make sure there isnt a bunch of dirt/mud in there as well).

From your pic, I think that it looks like it is trying for third gear not second. I think second is in the middle as it is shown, but all the way back. (The gear shifter lever will be forward, but the rod will push toward the back of the car)

First and reverse should be with the lever (at the transmission) toward the transmission forward and back.

Fourth and fifth should be with the lever (at the transmission) away from the transmission forward and back.

To disconnect the gear shift lever, keep rotating the plastic cover down and notice there is an allen screw (cone screw) in the lever at the transmission. With a 6mm allen wrench, remove the special cone screw and do not loose. Then with the cone screw removed, the shift rod should twist off of the shift arm at the transmission.


Once the shift rod is loose from the shift arm at the transmission, you should easily be able to work the transmission shifter by hand. It can be difficult to shift the transmission by hand but it should go into the gears. You may have to select other gears before being able to go into the one you want. You should be able to feel the transmission shift into each gear as the brake bands are compressed into the slider rings inside the transmission. The friction will change as each "slips into gear".

If you can't manually get the transmission to shift into second gear with the shift linkage removed, something internal to the transmission could be bent, broken, or out of adjustment.

I had one that wouldn't shift into second that was a relatively easy fix. The shift fork slid on the shift shaft far enough that the slider ring could not engage the gear. It turned out that whoever had "rebuilt" the transmission removed the wave washers (a special spring steel lock washer) and replaced them with "star" lock washers. I reinstalled wave washers, lined up the forks, reassembled the transmission and problem solved all for the price of a gasket set and 3 wave washers.

Unfortuanately, you may not have anyone in the area familiar with the transmission, but maybe your mechanic will be able to help you out. Also, unfortunately, the engine should be removed for any transmission work as the trans must be disassembled to make any adjustments.

(Yes I know one can do it in the car, but you are asking for input shaft seal problems if you do this).

Good luck!
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SirAndy
post Mar 28 2004, 02:19 AM
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QUOTE(JOHNMAN @ Mar 28 2004, 12:13 AM)
I think second is in the middle as it is shown, but all the way back. (The gear shifter lever will be forward, but the rod will push toward the back of the car)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

second will be towards the rear of the car, in the middle.
if you disconnect the shift rod, it'll be easier to move by hand.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Andy
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Bleyseng
post Mar 28 2004, 09:31 AM
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while you are in there try cleaning and lubing the shift bushings.


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weird_looking_cactus
post Mar 28 2004, 09:57 AM
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If you guys are wondering most the dirt here is red. Someone stiped the allen screw down. So the only way to get it out is to drill it out. Im wondering if it will be easy to replace. If I drill it out.
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Bleyseng
post Mar 28 2004, 10:04 AM
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Use a cobalt drill bit and a Easyout to remove it. The bottom of it is a cone shape that fits into the shift rod. If you just drill it out all the way you will have problems reinstalling. Shoot some PB Blaster in there to loosen it up also. Order a new cone screw to use.

I use a (I think) a 5mm allen (hex) that on a socket so I can get good purchase in it to remove them. When they a cranked down the cone screws are hard to remove. If you are using a hand allen key to remove it, it will be hard.

Geoff
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weird_looking_cactus
post Mar 28 2004, 10:39 AM
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I got it out with a flat head screw driver. But you guys ROCK thank thank thank. I know its just a my linkage/bushings. I guess it wasn't switching into third gear all the way ether. But I put it into second gear my manuel when I tryed to drive it it just keep poping out right when I started and it was super hard to drive and hold it into gear. What what bushing do you guys think is my problem.
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Gint
post Mar 28 2004, 10:41 AM
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Replace them all, change the fluid and adjust the shift rod.
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weird_looking_cactus
post Mar 28 2004, 10:55 AM
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Ok Im looking in my manuel at the parts I need to replace. On page 89. So I just need to get #8 and #25. I know there is more then this. Just give me the number. Then I will call up the porsche dealer in Salt lake city and order them.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Mar 28 2004, 11:01 AM
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There are also two bushings under part#26, and another that is not shown at the firewall.Don't order them from the dealership. go to Pelican, performance products, tweeks, or your other favorite. I'm sure HPH(brad) has them also.
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Bleyseng
post Mar 28 2004, 11:01 AM
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Call Rich Bontempi at High Preformace House or email him
Toll Free Order Line 1 877 914-4YOU

This is where BradR is working and the WCC will be nearby. Rich will send you all the correct ones.

Geoff
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weird_looking_cactus
post Mar 28 2004, 11:05 AM
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Cool so if I tell him what Im looking for he should know everything I need right that way I won't have to try and figure out all the parts I need.
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Bleyseng
post Mar 28 2004, 11:13 AM
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Rich and Brad know 914's inside and out. And could Fedex the stuff to you in a day.

Rich is a good guy to talk to sometimes those two are around on the weekend so try calling later on. Brad sneaks in to the shop to catch up on working on other peoples cars like Andy, Britan, Chrisreales....

Geoff
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rhodyguy
post Mar 28 2004, 11:56 AM
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there is a bushing in the firewall, one where the rod enters the bracket on the trans, the ball cup, and two in the shifter itself. order them all. as mentioned get them from independent vendors. when you put in the firewall and bracket bushings heat them up in some water in the microwave, not too much, they will go in much easier. if you look at the bottom of the shifter, the springs for the 1st- reverse lock out plate are probably coated with dirt and muck, so clean that up also. do the search for redbeards shift lingage/shifter install and adjustment(pelican also). very straight forward and it works.

kevin
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weird_looking_cactus
post Apr 3 2004, 03:11 PM
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Well I got my bushings I have got the rear coupler bushing on. Im having trouble getting the firewall bushing off. How the heck to do I do it its driving me crazy. He only sent me 3 bushings. Im not sure were the last one goes its called the special shift housing bushing. Also he wrote a note "There are 2 bushings at the front of the rear shift rod-They are expensive let me know if you need them. Rich" When I called him he never offered to sell them to me so now I don't know if I need them or not. My problem is just it won't switch into second or third gear but I can do it by hand. If I stick it in by hand it will slip out when I try to drive it. Thanks
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Bleyseng
post Apr 3 2004, 03:16 PM
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That doesn't sound good but maybe Gint can help you adjust the shift rod. Rarely does the firewall have to be replaced, only if its sloppy .
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weird_looking_cactus
post Apr 3 2004, 03:22 PM
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Haha well the firewall bushing is missing a big chunk out of it from me. So Im going to replace no matter what. This sucks I always get screwed when I don't know what Im doing. Like I paid 11.00 bucks for the firewall bushing and probley didn't even need it. And if I need to get the other bushings he didn't tell on the phone about those are going to cost me plus Im going to have to pay for shipping again which is another $14.
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rhodyguy
post Apr 3 2004, 04:19 PM
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heat up the firewall busing in hot water and it will go in much easier. for a side shifter there is: front to back, 1. 2 round bushings inside the shiftl ever assem, 2. 1 round at the firewall, 3. 1 round on the shift rod support housing on the trans, 4. 1 ball cup bushing for the shift selector on the trans. there are 2 coupler bushings at the connection point for the f &r shift rods. see what mike says before you order any thing else.

kevin
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ChrisFoley
post Apr 3 2004, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(weird_looking_cactus @ Apr 3 2004, 04:22 PM)
And if I need to get the other bushings he didn't tell on the phone about those are going to cost me plus Im going to have to pay for shipping again which is another $14.

It is unlikely you need the bushings that go in the swivel coupling at the front of the rod in the engine comp.
Since you say it comes out of gear even after you make sure it is in manually, I would think the problem is inside the gearbox.
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weird_looking_cactus
post Apr 3 2004, 04:28 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Apr 3 2004, 02:19 PM)
heat up the firewall busing in hot water and it will go in much easier. for a side shifter there is: front to back, 1. 2 round bushings inside the shiftl ever assem, 2. 1 round at the firewall, 3. 1 round on the shift rod support housing on the trans, 4. 1 ball cup bushing for the shift selector on the trans. there are 2 coupler bushings at the connection point for the f &r shift rods. see what mike says before you order any thing else.

kevin

Thats my problem I can't get the firewall bushing out to be able to stick the new one in.
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Mike9142.0
post Apr 3 2004, 05:04 PM
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Do you have the shift rod removed from the fire wall bushing?
It will not come out of the body if the rod is still in it.
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