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> Engine stand, rebulding my 2.0 /4
Black&White
post Jan 1 2010, 05:06 PM
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A quick ? Do I have to get the VW engine stand or will any stand do like the old V-8 ones. I am going to start my build soon but I getting all the tools readly for now.

Brad
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codices
post Jan 1 2010, 05:28 PM
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It depends upon the attachment brackets you have with the V-8 stand. I have a very generic V-8 stand that works well with the Type 4 bolt pattern as found with the 1.7, 1.8 and 2.0.

Dave
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VaccaRabite
post Jan 1 2010, 05:47 PM
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Depends. If you are only taking the engine down to a short block, and not splitting the case, then the standard HF engine stand will work fine.

If you want to split the case, or mount the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate with the engine on the stand, you need the VW adapter.

A VW adapter is only ~$40.
Zach
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McMark
post Jan 1 2010, 05:53 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The 'V8' stand works well enough for teardown, but you'll need a VW/Porsche stand for building. The bottom line is that you can only use two attachment points to hold the engine since when you split the case, you'll 'lose' the two other attachment points. The VW/Porsche stand uses a half circle to help support the engine case more fully.
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type47
post Jan 1 2010, 06:16 PM
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Consider the adapter "half-circle" offered by Mainely-Custom-By-Design" that you can use with a V-8 engine stand but mount a German engine.
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Black&White
post Jan 1 2010, 06:34 PM
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Looks like I need the VW adapter. Dose any one know of a place to get one in WA I know I can order one but I perfore in person shoping. And supporting local guys. Thanks for every ones help. Thanks to you guys I use my 914 as a daily driver when there's no ice. The 1.8 works well but I have a 2.0 that came with it. I like to keep the 1.8 as stock and play around with the 2.0.

Brad
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Dr Evil
post Jan 1 2010, 06:37 PM
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I have adapters that I make from the bell housings of transmissions for $50. Work great and are light (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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swood
post Jan 1 2010, 07:19 PM
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Will your adapter mount to this DR.? the holes are about 8.5" apart.


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Dr Evil
post Jan 1 2010, 07:35 PM
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I dont see why it wouldnt. The holes in the bell housing match the studs on the engine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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swood
post Jan 1 2010, 09:03 PM
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Just wondered how the modified bell housing would attach to the two-point connection of my setup. Got a pic?
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Dr Evil
post Jan 1 2010, 09:58 PM
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I dont have a pic at the moment. I cut the bell housing flat so that you just put your mount to it.
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arvcube
post Jan 1 2010, 10:47 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 1 2010, 04:37 PM) *

I have adapters that I make from the bell housings of transmissions for $50. Work great and are light (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


i'd like to see a pic, please
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Dr Evil
post Jan 6 2010, 11:11 PM
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Sorry, I spaced. I will get pics tomorrow of the almost finished ones I have in my shop and post them here since ya'll asked.
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Mark Henry
post Jan 7 2010, 10:11 AM
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Wood, isn't that a VW engine stand? you are doing a T4 right?

You can get cheapo china bench stands and they work OK if you weld a gusset onto them at the mount ears. About $25
Should fit in that stand.
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VaccaRabite
post Jan 7 2010, 10:26 AM
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QUOTE(swood @ Jan 1 2010, 08:19 PM) *

Will your adapter mount to this DR.? the holes are about 8.5" apart.

I have built 2 motors on a stand exactly like that one. its not the best out there, to be sure. But no adapter is needed.

Zach
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Dr Evil
post Jan 7 2010, 04:43 PM
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Here is a pic of a raw one. I need to remove the excess which creates nice flat spots for bolting.


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arvcube
post Jan 7 2010, 09:31 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 7 2010, 02:43 PM) *

Here is a pic of a raw one. I need to remove the excess which creates nice flat spots for bolting.


so, just for clarification, does that bolt right up to a standard harbor freight engine stand with the four adjustable arms? or does it require one of those vw 2 arm style mounts?
thanks
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Dr Evil
post Jan 7 2010, 09:39 PM
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It will mount to the HF unit. The best way to go about it is to cut the tubes off of the HF unit as the bell has a min 3.5" space to it, and then just bolt the flat metal tabs to it. You can mount a starter as well if you want to start it on the ground.
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Van
post Jan 7 2010, 09:42 PM
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Build it on a table - I drilled some holes for the head studs to go through:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy6sfBcuCOc


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy6sfBcuCOc
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bigkensteele
post Jan 7 2010, 10:54 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 1 2010, 04:37 PM) *

I have adapters that I make from the bell housings of transmissions for $50. Work great and are light (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Doc, please bring one or more to the ohio clinic. I would like to purchase.
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