 Re-welding the windshield frame, what gauge steel is the body? |
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| bcaschera |
 Feb 10 2010, 03:16 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None  |
So... I am going to attempt to re-attach the windshield frame on my teener. The welder i currently have at my disposal is a flux stick welder and im afraid that this thing will just burn holes right through the factory steel. I know that mig is better but this is available to me and it is already a hack job so (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) to get me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) . Any input on this subject will help.
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Replies(1 - 19)
| charliew |
Feb 10 2010, 03:28 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
Eastwood sells a "stitch welder" for ac welders. It turns the amperage on and off at short intervals and works as good as a ac welder can on thin sheetmetal. I've had one for 20 years and use to use it a lot but have gone on to mig and tig. Most parts of the body are about 17 ga. Someone thats cut the windshield will need to chime in though.
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| bcaschera |
Feb 10 2010, 03:46 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None |
i could be wrong but i believe that the w/s frame is a little thicker than the rest of the body panels. So i should be ok with the flux weld... sloppy but sufficient.
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| charliew |
Feb 10 2010, 03:48 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
If it's cut off why can't you see the thickness?
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| bcaschera |
Feb 10 2010, 03:51 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None |
it was initially cut with a grinder so i am afraid it looks significantly thicker that it actually IS...
see what i mean? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)  |
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| McMark |
Feb 10 2010, 05:12 PM
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#6
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
A little careful work with a file will take off the edge.
Good luck with the stick welder. Yer gonna have fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
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| dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Feb 10 2010, 05:23 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,872 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(bcaschera @ Feb 10 2010, 02:16 PM)  So... I am going to attempt to re-attach the windshield frame on my teener. The welder i currently have at my disposal is a flux stick welder and im afraid that this thing will just burn holes right through the factory steel. I know that mig is better but this is available to me and it is already a hack job so (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) to get me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) . Any input on this subject will help. Congrats on bringing your 914 back to its original configuration. I would suggest of course like everyone else that you use a wire feed welder and before you weld it back together that you take some careful measurements and actually then tack the frame and place a top and a windshield in to check the fit. Secondly I would weld some reinforcement steel inside the frame as just welding it back together will not make it as strong as it once was now that it is cut in half. Years ago we repaired quite a few rolled 914s and if the reinforcements are not welded in the frame sturucture is weak and unsafe. |
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| underthetire |
Feb 10 2010, 05:26 PM
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#8
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
stick (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) = (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif) =where did my metal go.
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| bcaschera |
Feb 10 2010, 06:09 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Feb 10 2010, 03:23 PM) QUOTE(bcaschera @ Feb 10 2010, 02:16 PM) So... I am going to attempt to re-attach the windshield frame on my teener. The welder i currently have at my disposal is a flux stick welder and im afraid that this thing will just burn holes right through the factory steel. I know that mig is better but this is available to me and it is already a hack job so (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) to get me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) . Any input on this subject will help. Congrats on bringing your 914 back to its original configuration. I would suggest of course like everyone else that you use a wire feed welder and before you weld it back together that you take some careful measurements and actually then tack the frame and place a top and a windshield in to check the fit. Secondly I would weld some reinforcement steel inside the frame as just welding it back together will not make it as strong as it once was now that it is cut in half. Years ago we repaired quite a few rolled 914s and if the reinforcements are not welded in the frame sturucture is weak and unsafe. About the top... there is a targa top but no targa bar, soo.... i dont think that it will be exactly "back to original". But good enough for gov'ment work, ya know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) |
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| scotty b |
Feb 10 2010, 06:13 PM
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#10
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Don't........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
get a mig setup. |
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| rick 918-S |
Feb 10 2010, 06:13 PM
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#11
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,466 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region 
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Here's a crude sketch. Sorry I can't even draw stick people.
Sleeve the body section of the post. Slide the upper section over the sleeve and you have a back up strip to weld to. Attached thumbnail(s) 
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| bcaschera |
Feb 10 2010, 06:23 PM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) rather than a butt weld right? I was even thinking of cutting a hole with a hole saw to weld the interior of it as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Is this excessive or just a bad idea??
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| bcaschera |
Feb 10 2010, 06:25 PM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 10 2010, 04:13 PM) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Don't........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) get a mig setup. Because it is too high amperage or because its sloppy? Extrapolate please. |
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| scotty b |
Feb 10 2010, 06:25 PM
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#14
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Do yourself a huge favor. Borrow the welder, find some scrap 20 gauge and try welding it BEFORE you attack the car with it. Then go find a mig setup to borrow. If you still want to try it then do like Rick illustrated. Plug weld the sleeve. Trying to butt weld with a stick welder will most likely end in disaster.
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| rick 918-S |
Feb 10 2010, 06:26 PM
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#15
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,466 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region
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QUOTE(bcaschera @ Feb 10 2010, 04:23 PM) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) rather than a butt weld right? I was even thinking of cutting a hole with a hole saw to weld the interior of it as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Is this excessive or just a bad idea?? The sleeve will be stronger the the original section of the post. I would use 18 GA. Form it to fit tightly in the post and plug weld the lower section. |
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| scotty b |
Feb 10 2010, 06:28 PM
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#16
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
[quote name='bcaschera' date='Feb 10 2010, 04:25 PM' post='1272308']
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 10 2010, 04:13 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Don't........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) get a mig setup. [/quote] Because it is too high amperage or because its sloppy? Extrapolate please. [/quote] Because it requires higher amps therefore it burns hotter, ( warping and burning through ) it is harder to deal with, it is more awkward to do. I am a certified welder and wouldn't ever consider sticking any sheet metal. It's just not a good idea. |
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| bcaschera |
Feb 10 2010, 06:30 PM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 1-October 09 From: san jose Member No.: 10,873 Region Association: None |
Good to know that was my original concern. Maybe my friends father-in-law will let me use his TIG.
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| rick 918-S |
Feb 10 2010, 06:35 PM
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#18
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,466 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region
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[quote name='scotty b' date='Feb 10 2010, 04:28 PM' post='1272312']
[quote name='bcaschera' date='Feb 10 2010, 04:25 PM' post='1272308'] (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 10 2010, 04:13 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Don't........... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) get a mig setup. [/quote] Because it is too high amperage or because its sloppy? Extrapolate please. [/quote] Because it requires higher amps therefore it burns hotter, ( warping and burning through ) it is harder to deal with, it is more awkward to do. I am a certified welder and wouldn't ever consider sticking any sheet metal. It's just not a good idea. [/quote] I've done it. It sux ass. There was a time when we didn't have mig welders in the shop. Yes I'm that old... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/howard.gif) |
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| Katmanken |
Feb 10 2010, 08:01 PM
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#19
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You haven't seen me if anybody asks... Group: Members Posts: 4,738 Joined: 14-June 03 From: USA Member No.: 819 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I agree with Scottyb - no to the stick.
That's how I learned, and it's great for thick parts, but REALLY sucks on 914 sheet metal. It will blow big holes through that metal in a heartbeat unless it is backed up with a chill plate. Because the frame is a tube, you can't get the chill plate in there. Use George's suggestions for adding reinforcement and the cut the frame to fit with a real windshield in place. Then remove the windshield, hold the frame in place and tack that sucker in place with the stick. A tack weld or two on each side should suffice. Then stop. Take it to somebody with a MIG or TIG setup so you won't have to do this over and over and.... |
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| underthetire |
Feb 10 2010, 08:08 PM
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#20
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
[/quote] A. But good enough for gov'ment work, ya know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) [/quote] Hey, I work for the gubment. Let me tell ya, that statement does NOT hold water. Close enough would be .00001 or less of an inch! Bunch o anal propeller heads I tell ya. |
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