So... I am going to attempt to re-attach the windshield frame on my teener. The welder i currently have at my disposal is a flux stick welder and im afraid that this thing will just burn holes right through the factory steel. I know that mig is better but this is available to me and it is already a hack job so and to get me . Any input on this subject will help.

Eastwood sells a "stitch welder" for ac welders. It turns the amperage on and off at short intervals and works as good as a ac welder can on thin sheetmetal. I've had one for 20 years and use to use it a lot but have gone on to mig and tig. Most parts of the body are about 17 ga. Someone thats cut the windshield will need to chime in though.

i could be wrong but i believe that the w/s frame is a little thicker than the rest of the body panels. So i should be ok with the flux weld... sloppy but sufficient.

If it's cut off why can't you see the thickness?

it was initially cut with a grinder so i am afraid it looks significantly thicker that it actually IS...

see what i mean? Click to view attachment

A little careful work with a file will take off the edge.

Good luck with the stick welder. Yer gonna have fun.

Congrats on bringing your 914 back to its original configuration. I would suggest of course like everyone else that you use a wire feed welder and before you weld it back together that you take some careful measurements and actually then tack the frame and place a top and a windshield in to check the fit.
Secondly I would weld some reinforcement steel inside the frame as just welding it back together will not make it as strong as it once was now that it is cut in half.
Years ago we repaired quite a few rolled 914s and if the reinforcements are not welded in the frame sturucture is weak and unsafe.

stick = =where did my metal go.

About the top... there is a targa top but no targa bar, soo.... i dont think that it will be exactly "back to original". But good enough for gov'ment work, ya know.
Click to view attachment

Don't...........


get a mig setup.

Here's a crude sketch. Sorry I can't even draw stick people.

Sleeve the body section of the post. Slide the upper section over the sleeve and you have a back up strip to weld to.

rather than a butt weld right? I was even thinking of cutting a hole with a hole saw to weld the interior of it as well Is this excessive or just a bad idea??

Because it is too high amperage or because its sloppy? Extrapolate please.

Do yourself a huge favor. Borrow the welder, find some scrap 20 gauge and try welding it BEFORE you attack the car with it. Then go find a mig setup to borrow. If you still want to try it then do like Rick illustrated. Plug weld the sleeve. Trying to butt weld with a stick welder will most likely end in disaster.

The sleeve will be stronger the the original section of the post. I would use 18 GA. Form it to fit tightly in the post and plug weld the lower section.

[quote name='bcaschera' date='Feb 10 2010, 04:25 PM' post='1272308']
--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 10 2010, 04:13 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
Don't...........


get a mig setup.
[/quote]

Because it is too high amperage or because its sloppy? Extrapolate please.
[/quote]


Because it requires higher amps therefore it burns hotter, ( warping and burning through ) it is harder to deal with, it is more awkward to do. I am a certified welder and wouldn't ever consider sticking any sheet metal. It's just not a good idea.

Good to know that was my original concern. Maybe my friends father-in-law will let me use his TIG.

[quote name='scotty b' date='Feb 10 2010, 04:28 PM' post='1272312']
[quote name='bcaschera' date='Feb 10 2010, 04:25 PM' post='1272308']
--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 10 2010, 04:13 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
Don't...........


get a mig setup.
[/quote]

Because it is too high amperage or because its sloppy? Extrapolate please.
[/quote]


Because it requires higher amps therefore it burns hotter, ( warping and burning through ) it is harder to deal with, it is more awkward to do. I am a certified welder and wouldn't ever consider sticking any sheet metal. It's just not a good idea.
[/quote]

I've done it. It sux ass. There was a time when we didn't have mig welders in the shop. Yes I'm that old...

I agree with Scottyb - no to the stick.

That's how I learned, and it's great for thick parts, but REALLY sucks on 914 sheet metal.

It will blow big holes through that metal in a heartbeat unless it is backed up with a chill plate. Because the frame is a tube, you can't get the chill plate in there.

Use George's suggestions for adding reinforcement and the cut the frame to fit with a real windshield in place. Then remove the windshield, hold the frame in place and tack that sucker in place with the stick. A tack weld or two on each side should suffice.

Then stop.

Take it to somebody with a MIG or TIG setup so you won't have to do this over and over and....

[/quote]


A. But good enough for gov'ment work, ya know.
Click to view attachment

[/quote]


Hey, I work for the gubment. Let me tell ya, that statement does NOT hold water. Close enough would be .00001 or less of an inch! Bunch o anal propeller heads I tell ya.

Flame on, bought one of those 89 dollar HF flux core wire feeds for a one time repair, and you know, the dam thing actually works ok for small stuff. I would loan it to you if I still lived in San Jose.

110%

I did a lot of rust repair with a ac stick welder and some with a ac stitch welder attachment but it also required a HUGE amount of grinding and welding. You learn a lot about striking the arc and moving on and off of the edge of the molten metal, you also learn that it's by far the most costly way to do a sheetmetal repair. I've also spent many hours with a torch welding sheetmetal this is a good way to learn about heating sheetmetal and it is formable after it is welded to a degree. I now know tig is the least damaging to the base metal but it needs to be really clean metal. Mig is the welding that almost anyone can learn pretty quickly but the prep and reseal of the weld is what makes the best welds last nomatter how they are done. The damage is with the heat to the base metal beside the weld bead, it gets really brittle. When I was learning I would torche weld a seam in the bottom of a old jeep tub and sometimes a long crack would happen 5 minutes after I finished right through the center or beside the bead. Torch welding puts a LOT of heat in the weld area. Tig has the most confined heat source and the fact you can start hot and cut the heat back is a big advantage in applying heat over the length of the weld.

My old friend that has a fab shop can weld aluminum and stainless and mild steel like a robot. He can also weld sheetmetal great but he hates it because of the contamination and the contortions you usually need to be in to get the job done. He aquired a complete 1942 ford jeep mostly for free. It had most of the driver side, where the shovel and axe grooves are, missing and nearly all of the floor was gone. Everywhere there had been oak in a channel the metal was gone, including the rear panel. It still had the ford name on the rear thats why he wanted it. I spent 370 hours rebuilding the entire body including the seat frames, windshield frame supports under the front fenders and even the glovebox door needed repair. I did it with a mig and .023 wire. All of the sheetmetal was replaced with 16 ga as that was the easiest to get, he had a lot of it left over from other jobs. 16ga new metal is probably 100% easier to weld than 20ga new metal in my opinion.

Thanks for all the advise everyone . Ill hold out for a mig or borrow a tig. If any of yall happen to see a mig setup in the san jose norcal region for cheep; soot me a line would you? . Im keeping my eyes peeled and will post pics when i get around to doing this damn thing. thanks again.

If things do not go as planned.. Check this out!
Click to view attachment

Good to see that you are saving this car.

All the East Coast guys thank you for not cutting it up!

Did i mention that it is a salvage title?? So i dont know if i am saving it or just going to learn how to weld with it. The longs and the hell hole are great, there is however rust on the hood the driver side front fender and the lower section of the windshield frame. Im thinking ill just play with chop and rake of the wind shield until i find a shell then i guess... ill send it back east and let you guys chop it up.

i just found this so now i guess i have to install the windshield:

VEHICLE CODE
SECTION 26700-26712



26700. (a) Except as provided in subdivision (, a passenger
vehicle, other than a motorcycle, and every bus, motortruck or truck
tractor, and every firetruck, fire engine or other fire apparatus,
whether publicly or privately owned, shall be equipped with an
adequate windshield.
( Subdivision (a) does not apply to any vehicle issued
identification plates pursuant to Section 5004 which was not required
to be equipped with a windshield at the time it was first sold or
registered under the laws of this state, another state, or foreign
jurisdiction.

only if it's gonna be a street car.

it is

Lots of room for interpretation....LOTS

I personally feel after driving it that it is currently perfectly adaquate