GT Clone/Look 914 - which model to start with - 914 or /6? Options

[SirAndy]

Wonder why Andy didn't offer up his shell? Hmmmm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

It's still for sale ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[ChicagoPete]

Thanks for all of the responses so far guys.

To be clear, when I say that I have a budget, I don't mean the I have a limited dollar amount to work with. What I mean is that I'm going to set a dollar amount in advance that I think will cover the costs to build the car that I want to build. I don't want a sinkhole of a project, but I don't want to needlessly limit myself or waste money either.

Make sense?

Well, these things always seem to get legs once they are started. And, the dollar amount that you have established for yourself seems to DOUBLE, with extra time in unforeseen labor, parts that are unavailable and needed NOW, and those little odds and ends that might " be cool".

Be very careful, that it a slippery slope when going this route. They add up quick.

Ask Eric and TC, they are the most recent people who are doing GT replica's.

Perhaps, what you should do, go thru Armando's site, and make a list for yourself, what you want in parts and what you want in modifications to the car.

And once you have that list, then perhaps ask here what each of these are realistically going to cost?

Will you be doing most of the work yourself or having someone do it for you??

Peter

[jgara962]

You see it all the time at auctione like BJ where a bone stock car commands more as it was originally built than ones that are turned into tribute cars or clones.

I didn't think his intention was to flip his car for a profit.

But even then, if you need to restore the 914/6, it'll never command top dollars.
All the ones i have seen that went for over $30k were low mileage, original cars.
I don't think any restored /6 will sell in that range for quite a few years to come.

Given the choice between a nicely restored stock /6 and a nicely restored GT replica /6 i just don't think the stock car would fetch significantly more.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy

If you took a /4 and a /6 and built them to into a GT clone of the exact same level, would the /6 command significantly more money if sold? Would the difference even cover the initial outlay of the car? I don't know the answer. I do know that a /4 and /6 chassis built to the same level would both drive the same on the road and what it's VIN is wouldn't make a difference. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[RiqueMar]

I think we can all agree that the true question here is, "How important are those first three numbers to you?"

[SirAndy]

I do know that a /4 and /6 chassis built to the same level would both drive the same on the road and what it's VIN is wouldn't make a difference. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

If the VIN doesn't make a difference, then why NOT use a real /6 ???
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[RiqueMar]

If the VIN doesn't make a difference, then why NOT use a real /6 ???
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

Because real /6's cost more?

[SirAndy]

Because real /6's cost more?

I got mine for $500 ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Andy

[RiqueMar]

Because real /6's cost more?

I got mine for $500 ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Andy

Wow. I walked right in to that trap, lol.

[EdwardBlume]

I'd find a solid /4 even if money is no object. You can feel good about doing whatever you want and whatever makes sense on a /4 base. Whereas with a real /6 I'd be hesitant to really go too far...

[carr914]

Asking for advice is great, but in the end it will come down to you and what car platforms are available to start with.

I will give you 2 perspectives

#1, I had a 74 914 2.0 that I owned foe 14 years and thru the years it became a GT Look, close to what you are looking for. Flares, nice Fuchs, 2.5 Twin-Plug, rebuilt 901 Tranny with custom gears. I wasn't planning on getting rid of it, but I did and basically got the Motor money out of the car.

#2, My current GT Recreation. It is a Real -6 that the very next Vin was a Real GT.
I bought this car rusted to beat the band, so anything I did was going to be OK. I had a set of Factory Flares (the only thing that should go on a Real -6 IMHO) so they went on to make a M-471 Look. I had a few GT parts, but the car was just going back to -6 with Flares. Then I bought another Real -6 that came a Ton of Real GT parts. After trying to restore 2 914-6s at one time, I sold the 2nd car but kept all the GT parts to use on the 1st car. Then I have bought more & more Real GT parts. The parts alone that I have, would buy a Nice 914-6.

Do what you want with what you want, just be aware it will be a time consuming, money-grabbing mistress. Take your budget and double it Right Now. That way, you won't give up in the middle.

Some $$$ estimates

a 2.5 Twin-Plug will set you back at least $15k. The ignition will be $1,200 to $2,500

You will need a rebuilt tranny & what the heck have a spare handy - with special gears & lsd $2-2,500

Flares, bodywork, & paint $15k

Wheels & tires $1,500 - 6,000

T.C.

[RiqueMar]

.... I had a set of Factory Flares (the only thing that should go on a Real -6 IMHO) so they went on to make a M-471 Look....

TC, are you sure you don't share some blood with my Dad? He's the same way!

Me: "Dad, why don't you just get repros, it's the same thing for half the price?"
Dad: ".... I want the 'Porsche' stamp to come on mine..."

[sixaddict]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
This sounds like my brain on drugs ..
The 914-6 GT ( real or memorex) is a personal decision BUT if you plan on tracking it , build or buy a -4 . Hurt it badly and you just find another donor.
I have both.....I had porsche flairs to add to the real one and couldn't go through with it although it already has stiffening kit and some other "cuts" to prelclude its status as a virgin....... Found a GT replica sitting in a garage and frankly the money deal tells me you need to find one that someone has lost interest in because they are out there. Ran the real six off the track without damage and was convinced it was a bad plan hence the -4 route. That said, I fully believe today you can spend less and get a GT by starting with a -4. So my two cents is as schizo as this whole thread has been ...but now I feel so much better ...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
TOT
P.S. Incidentally the white one on bird site......high teens, no motor, no engine, mount, or aux oil color and 10 year old tires ......nice car but theres a 30K + conversion GT easily !!! TC sold his (blue car...right?) for nothing if I recall and it was respectable.

.... I had a set of Factory Flares (the only thing that should go on a Real -6 IMHO) so they went on to make a M-471 Look....

TC, are you sure you don't share some blood with my Dad? He's the same way!

Me: "Dad, why don't you just get repros, it's the same thing for half the price?"
Dad: ".... I want the 'Porsche' stamp to come on mine..."

[effutuo101]

I have to agree with Andy. Build on a /6 if you can get one for the right price.

In the long run even a tribute car built on the right number chassis would be worth more than a tribute built on the wrong set of numbers. You also won't have to mess with the wireing as it is already done as well as the dash.
The motor is it's own can of worms. I like the twin plug.

If I could afford a /6 I would have gone that route. At the time, I went with what I could afford on my car budget. It still took a long time to get done. I am still putting it back together. Maybe fire it back up on this weekend or Monday.

Now if you just want to get the look of the GT and all of the torque of the /4 and drive it while you spend 10k min. on the twin plug beastie, that works.

[pete-stevers]

Because real /6's cost more?

I got mine for $500 ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Andy

yup 500 but what are you selling it for???
I have been hounding a guy for his rough 6 to do a full orig resto
and i will be lucky if he even calls me back...
if i could grab a six roller for 2000 i would think i am ... lucky
....
very lucky
....


if i was just doing a GT look i would start with a four
oh yes and i did
resale...forget about it
if it is done well 50 cents on the dollar

[rfuerst911sc]

I'll add my 2 cents because that's all I have left after doing my conversion (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . I started with a 1975 rolling chassis . My vision was to create a M471 clone and I thought if I did all the work myself I could do it for around $12,000.00. To say the least I was waaaaaaaaaaay off on the estimate and I really don't think I did anything out of the ordinary. I don't have a super built engine just a stock 3.0 with Weber carbs I did not touch any motor internals. Yes I completely rebuilt the suspension with new polybronze bushings but stock torsion bars up front. I got in on the AA flared fender group buy a few years ago so saved some coin there. I bought lots of used parts off this site and others. Did all the chassis stiffening I thought was needed and did all the welding myself. I did farm out the repaint but got a great job for $2,000.00. Bottom line is if you are really going to do this as others have said double the budget you think it will take. I've been working on mine for 3 years plus and I just got it running this past week. For me this was a labor of love and never in my thought process was rate of return vs. investment because I'm not planning on selling her. I hope you go out and save another chassis from the crusher and enjoy every minute of the restoration. Good luck.

[JJ914GT]

I woukd say start with a solid car. rust repairs, etc, might add to the cost, the project will take longer and you might loose interest before even putting on flares, etc.
I would never use a real six, unless I was going for an exact GT replica. If you just like the GT look, start with a rustfree 914-4.
If you use an early 914 ( mine is a 1971 car) then at least the year is correct.
If you want the race it, and it's a real six,.. you won't feel happy when this happens,....:



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

(yes, that's a 914-6)

[badm]

Finding a 98% rust free 914/6 for $28000.00. Having a Master Card in my name only, to hide all the other costs of building my GT from my wife. Priceless!

Take what ever you think you will spend, times two. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[jcambo7]

I woukd say start with a solid car. rust repairs, etc, might add to the cost, the project will take longer and you might loose interest before even putting on flares, etc.
I would never use a real six, unless I was going for an exact GT replica. If you just like the GT look, start with a rustfree 914-4.
If you use an early 914 ( mine is a 1971 car) then at least the year is correct.
If you want the race it, and it's a real six,.. you won't feel happy when this happens,....:



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

(yes, that's a 914-6)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) That sucks man...

[JJ914GT]

It sure does. I've seen this car ( it's in the same workshop as my car ) and it doesn't look pretty..

I found the video of the crash on the internet:
Youtube 914 video

Here's the car before this all happened:
Link 914-6

[ChicagoPete]

There sure are alot of spectators awfully close to the racing circuit!!

Especially for how high that car went in the air!!


Peter