ATL area type IV megasquirt tuners? Options

[thenewwazoo]

My (fairly new-to-me) megasquirted '74 2L is running warm on the highway, and I suspect an overly aggressive ignition map might be to blame. As well, it's got some spots in the fuelling that are still rough around the edges, and I don't think I've got the patience to do anything but DRIVE the damned thing (who wants to fiddle around with the laptop when I could be enjoying the car?).

As a result, I think I'd like to buy some dyno time with a tuner that's familiar with both the type IV and the MegaSquirt... does anyone have any recommendations?

For reference, I'm tuned for ~14.5 at cruise and about 36 degrees of advance at 3100 RPM cruise on the highway. I'm seeing head temps settling around 360 with up to 385 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) on long uphill sections, and oil temps of about 230. Around town temps hang out at about 345 and 225.

Thanks in advance for the advice! This forum is a really great resource.

[Mike Bellis]

Are you running a MAP sensor? it sounds like you might be lean under load.

I took my MS to a dyno here. Cost me $200 for the day plus they let me use their wideband O2 to help.

[thenewwazoo]

Are you running a MAP sensor? it sounds like you might be lean under load.

I took my MS to a dyno here. Cost me $200 for the day plus they let me use their wideband O2 to help.

Yeah, it's running in speed-density mode (MAP sensor) with a TPS. I've got a wideband installed (in the tailpipe - not optimal, but okay), but I turned off auto-tune mode as it was making the system do weird things.

I know some really good tuners in the area that do MS tuning, but the TIV seems to be a wholly different beast. I'd prefer a tuner who's at least used to tuning air-cooled engines! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[brer]

hey, would be at all interested in sharing some 914 megasquirt info?
http://914megasquirt.ning.com/

pm me if you are interested.

[underthetire]

hey, would be at all interested in sharing some 914 megasquirt info?
http://914megasquirt.ning.com/

pm me if you are interested.

I can give you my MSQ file for MS2 3.0 with 2.88 code. It runs, but could always be better.

[904svo]

I live in wodstock am I still trying to get my Megasquirt to run on my test
engine, boy am I finding problems.
Lets have a get together and share knowledge.

[McMark]

I'm a huge proponent of crank triggering for MegaSquirt. Getting the signal from the coil is yucky. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

[thenewwazoo]

That may be, but you're also selling something, and my car runs quite well otherwise. More to the point, do you know of any Atlanta-area tuners that are familiar with the MS and the type 4?

[underthetire]

I'm a huge proponent of crank triggering for MegaSquirt. Getting the signal from the coil is yucky. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

I agree 100% with you on this, if you are running timing to. With fuel only it works fine.

[McMark]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) for fuel only, you can get away with coil triggering because any fluctuations aren't nearly as pronounced as they are for ignition.

That may be, but you're also selling something, and my car runs quite well otherwise. More to the point, do you know of any Atlanta-area tuners that are familiar with the MS and the type 4?

Once you're around here awhile, you'll understand that I'm not interested in selling anything you don't need. I was completely blown away with how much the signal improved when I switched from coil triggering to a VR sensor.

If you're car runs great without it, I'm just as happy. Your skepticism is healthy. Just keep in mind that coil triggering CAN cause erratic triggering signals, which can lead to mistimed spark events and improper fuel metering, especially at low RPM and idle.

[underthetire]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) for fuel only, you can get away with coil triggering because any fluctuations aren't nearly as pronounced as they are for ignition.

That may be, but you're also selling something, and my car runs quite well otherwise. More to the point, do you know of any Atlanta-area tuners that are familiar with the MS and the type 4?

Once you're around here awhile, you'll understand that I'm not interested in selling anything you don't need. I was completely blown away with how much the signal improved when I switched from coil triggering to a VR sensor.

If you're car runs great without it, I'm just as happy. Your skepticism is healthy. Just keep in mind that coil triggering CAN cause erratic triggering signals, which can lead to mistimed spark events and improper fuel metering, especially at low RPM and idle.

No sh*t. Mine was so erratic, it took the teeth right off the flywheel. Went back to just fuel, and flip the key and pretty much go. I'm currently selling of a bunch o crap to help fund my 2056 build, that will have EIDS on it.

[904svo]

I'm running Megasquirt with a 36-1 tooth wheel, but I'm using a Hall efect
sensor (no VR sensor) and the timing works great using wasted spark mode.
No EDIS required to run this, less parts to worry about.

[underthetire]

I'm running Megasquirt with a 36-1 tooth wheel, but I'm using a Hall efect
sensor (no VR sensor) and the timing works great using wasted spark mode.
No EDIS required to run this, less parts to worry about.

Agreed, but, with the eids system, no more Dizzy problems, no more cap and rotor. Actually less parts to worry about. A tooth wheel would for sure be better than the hall efect on the dizzy though. Since cranking speed of the wheel would be somewhere in the 250-350 rpm range, not reduced by half, i'd think you would get a much cleaner signal.

[904svo]

I'm running Megasquirt with a 36-1 tooth wheel, but I'm using a Hall efect
sensor (no VR sensor) and the timing works great using wasted spark mode.
No EDIS required to run this, less parts to worry about.

Agreed, but, with the eids system, no more Dizzy problems, no more cap and rotor. Actually less parts to worry about. A tooth wheel would for sure be better than the hall efect on the dizzy though. Since cranking speed of the wheel would be somewhere in the 250-350 rpm range, not reduced by half, i'd think you would get a much cleaner signal.

On the wasted spark system the only parts required are a 36-1 tooth wheel on the
crank, a Hall efect pick up to the Megasquirt and coils. Timing is adjusted in
Megasquirt timing table. Thats it. My dizzy used for cylinder location only which
is going to be used for twin plugs with the second set of plugs also control by Megasquirt.

[thenewwazoo]

... especially at low RPM and idle.

Okay, well, if you think that mistimed spark events could be common enough at 3000-3500 RPM to cause no loss in power but slow heat buildup, I'll take that under consideration. Basically, I'm looking for someone to take the rough edges off my fuelling map and validate my timing. I'm especially not interested in pulling the engine to install a crank sensor. When I pull the engine, it's going to get replaced with a Suby. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Thanks for the concern, though.

So... does anyone know of any tuners in or near Atlanta that will work with the MS? Apparently Jack Raby is in the area, but only works with SDS?

[underthetire]

I'm running Megasquirt with a 36-1 tooth wheel, but I'm using a Hall efect
sensor (no VR sensor) and the timing works great using wasted spark mode.
No EDIS required to run this, less parts to worry about.

Agreed, but, with the eids system, no more Dizzy problems, no more cap and rotor. Actually less parts to worry about. A tooth wheel would for sure be better than the hall efect on the dizzy though. Since cranking speed of the wheel would be somewhere in the 250-350 rpm range, not reduced by half, i'd think you would get a much cleaner signal.

On the wasted spark system the only parts required are a 36-1 tooth wheel on the
crank, a Hall efect pick up to the Megasquirt and coils. Timing is adjusted in
Megasquirt timing table. Thats it. My dizzy used for cylinder location only which
is going to be used for twin plugs with the second set of plugs also control by Megasquirt.

Thats all the eids system is. Just a coil pack.

[DBCooper]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) for fuel only, you can get away with coil triggering because any fluctuations aren't nearly as pronounced as they are for ignition.

That may be, but you're also selling something, and my car runs quite well otherwise. More to the point, do you know of any Atlanta-area tuners that are familiar with the MS and the type 4?

Once you're around here awhile, you'll understand that I'm not interested in selling anything you don't need. I was completely blown away with how much the signal improved when I switched from coil triggering to a VR sensor.

If you're car runs great without it, I'm just as happy. Your skepticism is healthy. Just keep in mind that coil triggering CAN cause erratic triggering signals, which can lead to mistimed spark events and improper fuel metering, especially at low RPM and idle.

Just as an observation you can take McMark at his word, he's 100 percent. He's also posted before about the problem of poor distributor ignition signals as a "for your information" offering to the Megasquirt inclined. Sharing his good experience with no strings attached.

I think you'll find most of the vendors around here (almost all) aren't hustling anything, they're mostly just advanced hobbists who are happy to help others. This group tends to heal itself, rejecting nasty foreign objects that would cause things to get infected and fester.

[JFJ914]

I'm running Megasquirt with a 36-1 tooth wheel, but I'm using a Hall efect
sensor (no VR sensor) and the timing works great using wasted spark mode.
No EDIS required to run this, less parts to worry about.

Agreed, but, with the eids system, no more Dizzy problems, no more cap and rotor. Actually less parts to worry about. A tooth wheel would for sure be better than the hall efect on the dizzy though. Since cranking speed of the wheel would be somewhere in the 250-350 rpm range, not reduced by half, i'd think you would get a much cleaner signal.

He's using COPs in wasted spark mode, no distributor.

[BIGKAT_83]

Should be no trouble finding someone in Atlanta to help. You do know that Diyautotune is in Sawanee up by the Mall of Georgia. They are Megasquirt.
www.diyautotune.com

Bob (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[904svo]

My (fairly new-to-me) megasquirted '74 2L is running warm on the highway, and I suspect an overly aggressive ignition map might be to blame. As well, it's got some spots in the fuelling that are still rough around the edges, and I don't think I've got the patience to do anything but DRIVE the damned thing (who wants to fiddle around with the laptop when I could be enjoying the car?).

As a result, I think I'd like to buy some dyno time with a tuner that's familiar with both the type IV and the MegaSquirt... does anyone have any recommendations?

For reference, I'm tuned for ~14.5 at cruise and about 36 degrees of advance at 3100 RPM cruise on the highway. I'm seeing head temps settling around 360 with up to 385 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) on long uphill sections, and oil temps of about 230. Around town temps hang out at about 345 and 225.

Thanks in advance for the advice! This forum is a really great resource.

Type 4 like to run about 13:1 to stay cool at those rpm's