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> engine woes, engine rebuild
Lennies914
post May 3 2010, 10:06 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Sorry Dave, no easy way. But I'm glad to hear you're getting started on it.
Have fun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jcambo7
post May 4 2010, 12:00 AM
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arkitect
post May 21 2010, 03:54 PM
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Here is my latest find, found this engine for $100. Any idea with this case number what it is? Also, lot of end play on the crank, about 1/4" without a flywheel on.

The heads looked actually pretty good, except for the pulled out stud.

Dave


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arkitect
post May 21 2010, 03:59 PM
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Here is another case I have for a 1.8, which one should I use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)


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Dr Evil
post May 21 2010, 04:01 PM
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Engine looks kinda turdy. Why do you want a 1.7? Why not 2.0?
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Jeffs9146
post May 21 2010, 04:12 PM
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Engine Numbers Link

It is a 70-72 1.7L

Andy,

I saw this motor yesterday and he just wants a driver on a lower budget!

He only paid $100 for the motor! The Valves are brand new and the heads have had recent work done. It was obvious that the reason the person parked it was the pulled rocker stud! It looks like he could fix the stud and get it running but the movement in the crank doesn't look good to me!

What he wants to know is, if 1/4" of forward and back movement in the crank without the flywheel on is enough to forget about fixing this or not. How involved is it to fix the crank?

I don't know enough about how much movement is ok and what is not!

I did a search and found this about endplay! Measuring the End Play of the crank
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bandjoey
post May 21 2010, 08:22 PM
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Heat gun from Harbor Freight and a stiff scraper will get the tar out. It's not hard at all but a boring messy job. Good looking project. Have fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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ConeDodger
post May 22 2010, 10:43 AM
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I agree completely with the recommendations for McMark and Raby Aircooled Technology.

If I was looking for a driver, I would build a 2056 with carbs. Nice little power boost over the stock engines of any size. DJet is good with the 2056 as well but cam choice is critical. The next important thing to remember is that the heads are critical. You can spend as little as you want on the rebuild and if you don't pay a lot of attention to the heads you could end up doing it twice which is now a lot of money. On several occasions I have seen heads that have been rebuilt which have cracks in them or loose seats. I am not saying that Len Hoffman is the only place to go and I doubt Len would tell you that either, but Len has a careful process that gives you the best chance of your heads not giving you problems. Now, the problem; Len will not work with old original castings any more. Your rebuilder should bake the bare heads in an oven at 400 degrees F. This is the temperature at which bad things happen in a running Type IV engine. My operating cylinder head temperature in the engine I am using right now is 250 degrees F. and rises to 300 degrees F. when I spank it like a bad Catholic girl or go to a 5th gear cruise on a hot day. At 400 degrees, Len sees valve seats actually just fall out of the casting. Now, imagine this happening in your new engine; disaster! It will mess up the head which will need rewelding and machining to restore its shape before it can be rebuilt again. It will take out the cylinder and if you're lucky just the top of the piston. If it goes through the top of the piston, it probably will destroy everything inside the case and ventilate the case as well.

I am not saying you cannot do a cheap on the fly rebuild. You probably can but know where you are going from the start. Minimum, you need a cam with valve train and valve job, as well as a gasket kit and bearings. I would guess even do it yourself you are looking at $1000.

Don't be afraid to spend some money. There is nothing more expensive than a car you will not drive because it doesn't run right or reliably. Buy a $100 bike and you will hang it from the rafters, buy a $2000 bike and you will put a 1000 miles a year on it.

Talk to McMark, he is close and very trustworthy.
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craig downs
post May 22 2010, 11:23 AM
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The way you get the proper end pay is you need a flywheel and 3 shims. You bolt on the flywheel and measure the end play. Then you find the 3 of the right size shims to get your proper end play which is between 4-6 thousand.
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Jeffs9146
post May 22 2010, 12:54 PM
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OK that should help him!!

So he doesn't need to crack the case for that and if he fixes the rocker stud he should be able to run the motor!
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arkitect
post May 29 2010, 12:14 AM
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Rob and Craig,
Thanks for the advice, figured it out that I will spend some money, I want to put it together as economically as possible. Plan on breaking the case apart, new bearings, seals, new cam for a dual carb setup. New 96mm pistons and sleeves...and head work.


Any suggestions on size of carbs....linkage? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Dave
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arkitect
post May 29 2010, 06:30 AM
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And the engine I am working with is a 1.7, with the larger pistons should increase to a 1.9.

Dave
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arkitect
post Jun 16 2010, 06:51 PM
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Well, thinking of changing directions of dual carbs to Megasquirt FI. Need to do some more research.

Thought everyone would get a kick out of the following:

Question - Finally got my 73 back in my garage...now for the question...How do you get a 914 in your garage when you have a 30 degree driveway and no motor in the car?
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arkitect
post Jun 16 2010, 06:57 PM
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I guess I'd better qualify that with that's the driveway is up hill. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Jun 16 2010, 07:22 PM
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Push it with another car.
Lot of friends pushing.
Some sort of winch.
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arkitect
post Jun 16 2010, 08:49 PM
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Zach,
Internet problems...sorry.

Right last guess. I used an electric wench. Tied off the wench with chains to 4x4 thru the 2 door openings of my garage.

Pointed the 914 in the right direction, up the driveway. Pulled the cable out to find that I was about 6 feet short. Conned my wife into pushing up the hill with a rolling start and throwing something under the rear tire to stop it rolling back in the street...worked on the 6th try. Then was close enough to hook onto the front hook under the car.

Started pulling the wench up and verrrryyyy worried when the chains became very tight, hoping that my door jambs will hold. Slowly pulled it up with my door jambs intact.....Sorry no picts, too worried at the time.

Dave

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Lennies914
post Jun 16 2010, 09:47 PM
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QUOTE(arkitect @ Jun 16 2010, 07:49 PM) *

Zach,
Internet problems...sorry.

Right last guess. I used an electric wench. Tied off the wench with chains to 4x4 thru the 2 door openings of my garage.

Pointed the 914 in the right direction, up the driveway. Pulled the cable out to find that I was about 6 feet short. Conned my wife into pushing up the hill with a rolling start and throwing something under the rear tire to stop it rolling back in the street...worked on the 6th try. Then was close enough to hook onto the front hook under the car.

Started pulling the wench up and verrrryyyy worried when the chains became very tight, hoping that my door jambs will hold. Slowly pulled it up with my door jambs intact.....Sorry no picts, too worried at the time.

Dave

Maybe you forgot that you do have friends. Just threaten us with some cold beverages and an excuse to drive the 914 and we're there! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)
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arkitect
post Jun 16 2010, 10:21 PM
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Lennie,
I don't think 4 of us could have pushed it up the hill....but if you and Jeff are available some time Saturday I want to get your opinion on parts that I need....and beer will be available.

Dave
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Jeffs9146
post Jun 16 2010, 11:41 PM
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I am not sure about this weekend but if I am available I will come out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I am trying to get the boat running!
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Root_Werks
post Jun 17 2010, 09:14 AM
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Looks like a fun project. Hope the 1.7 you found works out for you.

Keep us posted with lots of pics!
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