 Am I missing an Engine Tin Piece?, Pass side bottom on 73 2.0 |
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| Tom_T |
 Apr 1 2010, 10:10 PM
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#1
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TMI....  Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California 
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So I crawled under the 914 last weekend & noticed a tin in the first pic on the bottom of the L bank rear (drivers side), but nothing but an empty screw hole on the R bank bottom-rear in the second pic - is that a missing tin similar to the L side???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
L Bank rear underside tins:  L Bank rear underside tins:  If so, can somebody post a pic of that R tin - either in or out of a 914, so I can see what I'm looking for? There's obviously a lot of work to clean this engine/trans & tins up & repainted or powder-coated for my resto! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
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| Sleepin |
Apr 1 2010, 11:13 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,647 Joined: 20-November 07 From: Grand Junction, Co. Member No.: 8,357 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I must be tired...I can't recognize those pics...but hopefully this helps.
Off of Pelican. (IMG:http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/parts/engine/Engine%20Sheet%20Metal%201.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-8357-1270185220.1.jpg) |
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| Tom_T |
Apr 1 2010, 11:45 PM
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#3
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 1 2010, 10:13 PM)  I must be tired...I can't recognize those pics...but hopefully this helps. Off of Pelican. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-10181-1270187141.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-8357-1270185220.1.jpg) Maybe #59 is the one I have in top photo, & #62 missing in bottom pic of my first post? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
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| Sleepin |
Apr 2 2010, 06:35 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,647 Joined: 20-November 07 From: Grand Junction, Co. Member No.: 8,357 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO.
I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif) |
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| dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Apr 2 2010, 08:08 AM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,832 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO. I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif) the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping. |
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Apr 2 2010, 08:13 AM
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#6
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
How is 10 bucks PLUS shipping cheaper than 20 bucks shipped?
The Cap'n |
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| gopack |
Apr 2 2010, 08:17 AM
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#7
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CHEESEHEAD in CA, MARK Group: Members Posts: 744 Joined: 7-August 04 From: Folsom, CA Member No.: 2,472 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Apr 2 2010, 09:08 AM) QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO. I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif) the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping. He said easiest but NOT cheapest! I figure that if a USPS flat rate box is used, the shipping should be about 10 bucks anyways! |
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| tat2dphreak |
Apr 2 2010, 08:47 AM
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#8
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) about $20 either way.
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| Sleepin |
Apr 2 2010, 08:50 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,647 Joined: 20-November 07 From: Grand Junction, Co. Member No.: 8,357 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
If you just want easy, pay me $2000 and I will fly out and install it myself! (that way you won't even have to think about it) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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| Tom_T |
Apr 2 2010, 01:34 PM
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#10
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Apr 2 2010, 07:08 AM) QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO. I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif) the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping. Thanx George - have Carrie put it that pending order stuff for me, along with a rear plasti-chrome bumper tow-eye plug! One less tin I need to Resto & Repaint/powder! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Thanx! |
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| Tom_T |
Apr 2 2010, 01:40 PM
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#11
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(Sleepin @ Apr 2 2010, 05:35 AM) Yup, you are right Tom. You are missing #62 by the looks of it. That is the piece that goes on the very back (towards back of car) of #3 cylinder. Pretty important piece IMO. I have found that one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to get a tin piece is to post a WTB here in the classifieds. I just replaced a piece of tin on my Dad's car for $20 shipped. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif) Thanx Sleepin & all! I agree it's important, but it probably got knocked loose when hit in the rear back in 5/85, and just never noticed it before. I'm in the process of stripping to shell & getting a body shop lined up to media-blast, repair accident & rust damage, prime/paint - so I have a way to go on this sucker! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)   (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
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| Drums66 |
Apr 2 2010, 03:40 PM
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#12
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914 Rudiments Group: Members Posts: 5,321 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Coronado,Cali Member No.: 151 Region Association: Southwest Region |
the easiest but not cheapest way is to give us a ring and we will send out today. We sell the piece for 10 bucks PLUS shipping. [/quote] If the road goes thru Atlanta....you're sure to get the right piece! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) or take your chances? |
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| BarberDave |
Apr 2 2010, 03:52 PM
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#13
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Barberdave Group: Members Posts: 1,605 Joined: 12-January 03 From: Wauseon Ohio Member No.: 135 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
Tom: I am missing # 4 in the pic., found out last summer . I got a replacement have yet to install ,probbly this weekend.Interested in oil temp after install,should go down a little. Better air flow? Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) |
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| Tom_T |
Apr 2 2010, 04:08 PM
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#14
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(BarberDave @ Apr 2 2010, 02:52 PM) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Tom: I am missing # 4 in the pic., found out last summer . I got a replacement have yet to install ,probbly this weekend.Interested in oil temp after install,should go down a little. Better air flow? Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) Yes - better cooling, as all the VW & Porsche air/oil cooled engines use tins designed to direct the cooling fan & other airflow where it needs to be to best cool that particular engine T-1, 2, 3, 4, etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Dave - did you ever find a voltmeter donation for the center console that you're restoring for proceeds to go to your handicapped charity? If not - guys & gals - Barber Dave needs a voltmeter for 914 center console he's restoring - Mark Heard & I already donated an extra clock & OT gauge we had respectively. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) So step up & search your parts stash for one you can donate for Dave's efforts here - he cleans up & restores 914 center consoles for Teeners here, then donates the proceeds to his charity! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Help him out! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) |
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| Pat Garvey |
 Apr 2 2010, 06:28 PM
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#15
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(Tom_T @ Apr 1 2010, 10:10 PM) So I crawled under the 914 last weekend & noticed a tin in the first pic on the bottom of the L bank rear (drivers side), but nothing but an empty screw hole on the R bank bottom-rear in the second pic - is that a missing tin similar to the L side???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) L Bank rear underside tins: L Bank rear underside tins: If so, can somebody post a pic of that R tin - either in or out of a 914, so I can see what I'm looking for? There's obviously a lot of work to clean this engine/trans & tins up & repainted or powder-coated for my resto! Sorry Tom - couldn't help myself! Is that the best yu can do for spider webs? Geez, I have 3 on leashes & six more with flea collars! Don'y think Spidey lives here - ask Ferg! Pat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
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| Tom_T |
Apr 3 2010, 09:56 AM
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#16
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(Pat Garvey @ Apr 2 2010, 05:28 PM) Sorry Tom - couldn't help myself! Is that the best yu can do for spider webs? Geez, I have 3 on leashes & six more with flea collars! Don'y think Spidey lives here - ask Ferg! Pat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) BTW all y'all - is it safe to clean the engine & trans case, suspension & shocks, etc. from years of oil leaks & road grime with POR Marine Clean, or is that too strong for the paint, aluminum & magnesium alloys, etc.?? ... &/or other safer cleaner suggestions?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) OK - OK - needles to say (pun intended) - other priorities Pat, like getting rockers off (good at both longs! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ), & trying to strip to shell & get pix for bodywork estimates, etc. Getting close to doing a post in garage for SoCal body shops to give me estimates (& McMark if not too much $$ to ship 2 shells & travel up there to Napa during process - as it's about = NYC - Atlanta distance-wise). Engine/Trans will come out as unit at my mechanic for refresh, while I do tins, etc., & while this shell-roller & ex-racer donor shell go to TBD shop for paint & body! If I ever get any CW entries on this 914 when it's done, then I should at least get a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) for "resurrection from the dead" from where it's come! Just pulled inner door seals on both door & found bad rust on the bottom skins above the seal (seal covered it), the donor pass is clean, but driver is also holed there but not as bad - so now I need to find a local late L door that's clean! Oddly enough - it appears from peeking behind the inner panels on this 8/72 &# MY 2L - that I have a new 3rd door type on it - a "Light Late"!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) It appears to be the late regulator & inner framework, but lacking the side impact reinforcing bars welded between the outer skin & inner frame (I can see them on the 74 donor shell's doors & know what to look for & where, but nada!) ~ & no CW's, they were never lightened by anyone removing them & doors were original to the vehicle! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ... probably just one of those early-73 MY anomalies which extended to the first 1-2,000 cars built! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) BTW - with all the El Nino rains - we're having a killer Black Widow season out here, & I was almost attacked by a humongous one when looking for the hide-a-key under the Honda my daughter drives everyday - to get it's Alt. replaced!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif) ... not sure which of those are "active" or not - so I shoot with the zoom when I can & approach with caution! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) PS - this is why I got such a giggle out of Steve G's prolific apologies over how "dirty" his Sahara's engine & underside was!!! I mean look what I've got to get into shape - even rust on the cylinder heads' fins!!! ... don't know whether to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) or (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
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