Clutch fork travel Options

[MrKona]

I had my flywheel resurfaced prior to re-installation.

I mated up my transmission and engine tonight and measured the clutch fork travel at approximately .6" (measured with a dial indicator mounted perpendicular to the fork). Pretty close to the .5" recommended in a Pelican tech article.

I then added one more shim underneath the clutch fork pivot ball, mated the transmission again and remeasured approximately .3" of free travel.

Is one measurement (+.1" versus -.2") better than the other, or am I splitting hairs?

- Bryan

[Dr Evil]

Splitting hairs. The big concept is that you have enough travel in the arm to disengage the spring plate. You only need a little free travel to make sure the TO bearing is not being pressed into the spring plate fingers all the time (premature failure of both the TOB and the pressure plate). It sounds like you have it set up fine.

However, since you placed a second shim under the pivot ball, you need to seal the threads of the ball or it will pee oil into your bell housing. 1 shim = self sealed, 2 shim = leak between the two shims.

[MrKona]

Splitting hairs. The big concept is that you have enough travel in the arm to disengage the spring plate. You only need a little free travel to make sure the TO bearing is not being pressed into the spring plate fingers all the time (premature failure of both the TOB and the pressure plate). It sounds like you have it set up fine.

However, since you placed a second shim under the pivot ball, you need to seal the threads of the ball or it will pee oil into your bell housing. 1 shim = self sealed, 2 shim = leak between the two shims.

Hi Dr,

Thanks for the information. I figured I was probably okay, as the TO bearing is definitely not in contact with the fingers right now. I was wondering if having only .3" might in fact allow the TO bearing to apply more pressure to the fingers and stress the PP spring mechanism too much. I was trying to think about from all angles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

What I didn't think about was sealing the washers. I'll take care of that. Thanks again.

[Dr Evil]

Splitting hairs. The big concept is that you have enough travel in the arm to disengage the spring plate. You only need a little free travel to make sure the TO bearing is not being pressed into the spring plate fingers all the time (premature failure of both the TOB and the pressure plate). It sounds like you have it set up fine.

However, since you placed a second shim under the pivot ball, you need to seal the threads of the ball or it will pee oil into your bell housing. 1 shim = self sealed, 2 shim = leak between the two shims.

Hi Dr,

Thanks for the information. I figured I was probably okay, as the TO bearing is definitely not in contact with the fingers right now. I was wondering if having only .3" might in fact allow the TO bearing to apply more pressure to the fingers and stress the PP spring mechanism too much. I was trying to think about from all angles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

What I didn't think about was sealing the washers. I'll take care of that. Thanks again.

Bryan,
How much the TOB pushes on the PP is adjusted at the cable and at the pedal stop. No worries there. For the pivot ball threads, I like just a dab of liquid teflon. It is the only time you can use sealant on the gear box and it works well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)