running on #1 and #3 only (2.0 four) Options

[dflesburg]

running on #1 and #3 only (2.0 four)

spraying fuel out tail pipe.

new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points, condensor

disabled cold start line.

checked MPS for vacume.

thinking it might be trigger points.

experienced thoughts please....

[TheCabinetmaker]

Trigger points fire in pairs. 1&3 and 2&4. Turn the connector on the diz around, I'll bet the other two fire.

Edit: wait! you said fuel out the tail pipe. Trigger points wouldn't cause that (I don't think). No pulse, no fuel. Sounds like your getting fuel, but no spark.

[rmital]

thinking it might be trigger points.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[r_towle]

Also check your grounds on the top case bolt, rear, under the plenum.
Each injector is grounded.

Rich

[realred914]

running on #1 and #3 only (2.0 four)

spraying fuel out tail pipe.

new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points, condensor

disabled cold start line.

checked MPS for vacume.

thinking it might be trigger points.

experienced thoughts please....

cuold well be worn trigger points take then out and examine if the taper is worn off the wear blocks then it is likely time to replace them with new. this symptom of rich running and is often double pusles from teh points causing more fuel to be injected.
this is a consumabel item that must be replaced once and while

ps it is best to pull out the distrubutor to get at teh points.

[rmital]

actually it is more likely the grounds:
diagonal failure is trigger points
side to side or (#1 and #3)or (#2 and #4) failure is grounds

[rmital]

actually it is more likely the grounds:
diagonal failure is trigger points
side to side or (#1 and #3)or (#2 and #4) failure is grounds

I think I read that in the Tech Tips.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

Fuel coming out of the tail pipe I would GUESS the head temp sensor, is defective. Ground the wire that is attached to it on the neg terminal of the battery once it warms up a bit and see if the problem goes away.

running on #1 and #3 only (2.0 four)

spraying fuel out tail pipe.

new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points, condensor

disabled cold start line.

checked MPS for vacume.

thinking it might be trigger points.

experienced thoughts please....

[dflesburg]

wouldnt disconnecting the fuel line to the cold start valve eliminate cyl head temp problems?

The two cylinders closest to the fire wall are the ones that are not igniting.

That would mean #2 and #4 not firing correct?

[realred914]

actually it is more likely the grounds:
diagonal failure is trigger points
side to side or (#1 and #3)or (#2 and #4) failure is grounds

true very true however I have seen cars that got the injector wires swapped so that 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 are swapped if that is the case trigger points could cause 1 and 3 to both flood for trigger point failure. a ground failure to injector will result in no fuel or lean, not rich and flooded

the head temp sendor is also suspect but I would think that would effect all four pistons not just two of them.

head temp is fairly easy to test with ohm metre be sure to wigggle teh wire a lot when testing to check for intemitent short or open on wire never put ohm meter on harness back to brain only on the senodr pigtail when removed from harness. test both hot and cold cold couple thosand ohms, hot is close to zero ohms

[Cap'n Krusty]

The cold start valve has NOTHING to do with the CHT sensor. If the CSV is constantly energized, there's a fault in the wiring from the starter through the thermo time switch. If that were the case, your starter would likely be continuously engaged, as well. If the CSV wire is unplugged and it still leaks, the valve is bad. Rare almost to the point of "never happens". If you have bad trigger points, by far the majority of the time the affected pair of injectors won't fire at all, rather than firing too often, but I suppose it "could" happen. Bad grounds also mean the affected pair of injectors won't fire at all. BTW, the location of the injector wires doesn't mean very much, because each injector fires twice per cycle. The CHT, the MPS, and a leaking CSV all affect the whole engine rather than a pair of cylinders, and it seems to me that you may have other (mechanical) issues. I'd adjust the valves, look at the movement of the rockers, and do a compression test before I went any farther. Both affected cylinders share the same cam lobes.

The Cap'n

[Root_Werks]

Years ago I had a 74' 2.0 FI that was running crazy rich, I tried what seemed like everything. I took it to a local shop giving up and figured just spend the money. Really glad I did.

Wound up the ECU was double firing 2 of the injectors. The shop bench tested the trigger points to be good, but the injectors themselves were blinking the little diod tester thingy way to fast on 1&3 or 2&4, can't remember the pair anymore.

I was actually there when he discovered this. One of his Mechanics ran home and drove his 75' 2.0 914 into work. We swapped ECU's for a dummy's test, ran perfect.

Back then, I just had my ECU rebuilt for I think $75.

Might be something similar? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[dflesburg]

So if my valves are not closing all the way on 1 and 3 that would explain what is happening?

[Root_Werks]

One of a few things that could be causing the issue.

You have to start with a few of the basic known goods BEFORE suspecting the FI:

Good valve adjustment, not that one was just completed, but done correctly or plug wires weren't crossed.

Other simple things like, points, cap, plugs and wires all in good or new condition.

I assume all that has already been verified good and correct which leads to some sort of FI issue. Like others have already said, could be trigger points, my thought was a bad ECU and so on.

Do you have anyone local you can swap out a part or two with?

Swap out the MPS, no change, put old one back.
Swap out ECU, no change, put old one back and so on.

Keep us posted! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[dflesburg]

okay, before everyone starts making fun of me...

You have to start with a few of the basic known goods BEFORE suspecting the FI:

Good valve adjustment, not that one was just completed, but done correctly

Lets say we never did adjust the valves. Bought the engine a couple years ago and just put it in and drove it.

Drove it around about a year now. never adjusted the valves...

[Root_Werks]

okay, before everyone starts making fun of me...

You have to start with a few of the basic known goods BEFORE suspecting the FI:

Good valve adjustment, not that one was just completed, but done correctly

Lets say we never did adjust the valves. Bought the engine a couple years ago and just put it in and drove it.

Drove it around about a year now. never adjusted the valves...

Probably not the issue then.

Not trying to poke at anyone's mechanical skills, but has anything been touched or changed.....like spark plug wires?

Trying to get a baseline for variables. If nothing was changed, then the issue is most likely a failed FI part.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[fly]

Injectors dont all work

I had a similar problem with my 1.8. We found a simple issue that fixed it, at least in my case. I dont know the name of the part but under the battery is a small box that looks like it is holding 4 cigarettes. Each has a wire going to it. If any of the wires are broken you will need to connect them. Mine were broken off and I took it to an aviation radio shop, they were able to solder them back in correctly. No cost and it fired up right away.

You probably eliminated this by now. Hope it helps

[dflesburg]

Issue Resolved...

#2 Fuel injector leaking like an open hose.

These were "new" a year ago..

Thanks everyone for all thier help.

Especially JOHN who came from Evansville to Dayton to help.

Too bad I popped an MPS while trying to fix it.

Lesson Learned. Now I have two parts that need rebuilt.. one green fuel injector and one MPS.