The Dreaded Hot Start Dilema, I've got some ideas but I want to hear yours Options

[76-914]

OK, first I would like to say this will be cross posted, as Cap't Krusty got me for that last year! I recently had the hot start issue visit me at the CVS parking lot. Being ignorant I called AAA, not knowing that I could have waited it out. I have a spare starter and ordered another ignition switch before reading Sir Andy's post describing this, shall I say phenomenon. Another post mentioned there are insulation kits to prevent this. How well do they work? Who sells them? If this is simple and works why not. Has anyone ever ducted a starter e.g. our alternators?? It would be easy to do. It should be easy enough to fab a ducted aluminum cover, if req'd. From the far side, a small CO2 canister ducted to the starter via the rear trunk. Just open the trunk and press the CO2 button for 10-15 sec's and viola. Just a small hole in the trunk for the CO2 discharge hose. Maybe, I don't know. Just thinking out loud here. Beats crawling underneath with a hammer. Let's hear some ideas. Seems like a simple fix but what do I know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I have less than a 1000 miles in a 914.

[Rand]

See this is what I don't get, you will cut and hack a new wire in, ignition switch or whatever and yet knock this "patcher" who uses a Ford solenoid

Just to be clear Mark, no knocking from me at all. My apologies if it came across that way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
I'm not a purist at all and have no problem with anyone doing whatever they want to fix anything, whether that means modifying wiring or adding a relay.
No question the relay works. It's a set and forget solution. I've just found that for me it's an extra widget I don't need because clean connections work without it.

[charliew]

This fix, "fixed vw's that were only a few years old" It is a permanent fix in my opinion. Cleaning and reseating connections is only good for a few years and each time you replug a connector it only gets looser. This experience comes from many years of trouble shooting business machines that are usually in a much drier inviorment. As for cutting and hacking you remove the starter wire from the ignition sw and put it on the relay, then you run a wire from the battery terminal on the starter to the common on the relay, then a wire to the terminal on the solenoid that used to have the ign sw wire on it and thats it, also ground the other side of the relay coil. Two-three new fabricated short wires and a mounted relay. I never used a ford type relay. The type that is used for headlamps is plenty big enough. 30 amps. On the first bugs I just modified a horn relay and it was good enough. Put it by the battery under the seat and ran the wires through the grommet that the battery cable went through. The first one I did was a 58/64 bug sedan that I had converted to 12v in 68. The 12v starter that would work with the 67 1500 bus flywheel was the trick back then.

[pbanders]

FWIW, I had hot start issues for years. I fixed them by installing a rebuilt starter, fixing all my charging system grounds and other cabling, and making sure that my charging system (alternator, regulator, and battery) were performing as they should (see www.ratwell.com and the article on the charging system for full procedures). Net result is that despite living in Phoenix and driving my car in 110 deg. F conditions, I've never had a hot start issue since, and my system is does not use a hot start relay.

[Tom]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
When I got my car, I went through the electrical system replacing bad connectors and cleaning others. The relay board 12 and 14 pin connectors had a lot of corrosion on the pins. Also completely removed and cleaned the trans ground strap and cleaned the surfaces it connected to. 4 years later, no hot starter issues. A lot of work, but this will put the car back to like new electrically for the start circuit.
Tom