Hey Brad, how's the Kitcarlson FI coming, Any progress on the replacement FI syste Options

[Jake Raby]

Great.... This is hitting at the perfect moment, as Webers are only going up more. Some places are getting 1,000.00 for a set that used to go for 600 bucks!

From what I hear prices are not going back down either..

I'm building a test engine right now for my blue beetle, so we could work on a system for individual runners and a DTM, as well as plenum based.

I have a 180 BHP 2316 thats ready for the dyno in a week or so, I'd love to see the differences.

[KitCarlson]

Mark, Brad,

The communications interface is 57,600b 8,n,1 no handshake, VT100 emulation, no echo.

Commands:
"t" to change modes, ">" to index value. "+" to increase, "-" to decrease.
"s" to save "y" to comfirm. Test your port ny connecting pins 2 and 3 to loop back,

Make sure you have the static timing set by having engine crank at 8deg and dist interruptor trailing edge on "A" sensor at center of sensor notch. Based on the picture you sent if crank was at 8 degrees you are about 30 degrees advanced at idle!

Kit

[Jake Raby]

DAAAAMMMMNNN! Ping!

LOL

[Brad Roberts]

We timed it not too long after that pic was taken. It starts/runs great. Just needs some tweaking. I'm still having com port issues on my laptop.

I may need to download some software instead of using Hyperterminal.

More info later today.


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[McMark]

I got it to talk! I'll spare the details. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Now for some tweaking.

[Brad Roberts]

Hyperterminal works fine. I was tweaking the system tonight. It took me 30 minutes to figure out that I could make live changes without saving it every time... DOH !! Nothing wrong with that.. but it takes forever. Now that I have that tidbit tuning will go much easier. We where driving it around making changes, but it was idling very high. We torqued down the intake manifolds and checked for vac leaks then started fooling with the timing. I stuck my hand near the exhaust and quickly figured out we had the timing set wrong.

I'll plug away at it tomorrow. The tables are easy to change. I will reread everything I have so far tonight.


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[KitCarlson]

Brad,
Make sure the base timing is set first with the engine off. Crank at 8 degrees, trailing edge of interrupter just past "center" of sensor "A". The center of sensor has notches ~ 0.050" where the emitters and detectors are located. Also make sure you run with the dist cap "on" to block external light .

In the TR (timing RPM) the first value should be 8 for the eight degrees. The second value should be zero, this is where the base idle will be. Timing = 8 (base) +TR + TM (timing MAP). This is what the communication reports in DEG. If base timing is wrong, all timing will be messed up.

At sub idle speeds "LT" indicated locked timing, it is used for starting, During LT (start-up for example the dwell starts at the leading edge of interrupter and spark happens at tailing edge. The width of the interrupter is about 40 crank degrees. If you want to test while cranking with timing light remove plug wires connect spare plugs to a plate connected to ground, this provides load for the ignition yet keeps engine from starting.
An alternate method is to, detach the red coil wire to defeat ignition put a scope on the tach out put. Slowly turn the crank, you will see a 50mS blip at 8 deg BTDC and 8 deg BBDC if all is correct. If you do not have a scope, connect a small test light (< 1 amp) or white LED with series resistor to +12V the other lead to the Tach Out and you have a solid state timing light! Just look for the timing mark when the light blinks.

If your timing is too advanced you will find you will have to add more fuel as you bring the idle down. If timing is correct, set idle speed with air screw on throttle body.

I made the "save" to keep from saving all the time. EEproms can wear out after 100,000 writes, that is many setup changes, but I still worry about things wearing out. I detect when changes are made and suggest a "S" save is necessary before shutting if you want to retain changed setup data. Just look before shutting off for the "S". There are ways to make it automatic, however it adds hardware complexity and cost. The system has 3 levels of memory, FLASH for factory default setups, EEprom for EEprom setup retention, and RAM for normal operation. I sure you have noticed adjustments can be done real time without a miss or tick. You just need to make sure whatever adjustment you make is in an active cell (correct for temperature, MAP,rpm ...). All this is planned to be improved in the near future.

As you experiment with the tuning don't hesitate to ask questions. I can learn from your experinces and improve the user interface.

Kit

[KitCarlson]

Brad, Mark,
I am starting to have kittens wondering how the tuning is going....
Kit

[McMark]

Too many projects, not enough time.

[Brad Roberts]

I wont fool with it again until Saturday. It is not billable so it gets done in my "free" time.


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