engine pictures Options

[mipstien]

im trying to see what i have and don't have in my engine bay and why i seem to have missing vacuum hoses.
can i get a few pictures of peoples engine bays. possibly one with smog equipment and one without. and what is an anti flash back valve?

[avidfanjpl]

What model or engine number do you have in there? There are more variations on a theme than you might know.

I can tell you there are folks here that can tell from your picture what you may be missing, but that picture you should put up is key.

Everyone wants to see what you are missing!

John
avidfanjpl

[mipstien]

75 2l djet. i can get pictures but im missing the evaporative filter and anti flash back pieces. and also when i was out checking out the vacuum lines we created suction on both sides of the distributor and it caused it to idle a lot smoother. although not perfect.
ill try and get pictures in a couple of minutes

[mipstien]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=97278&hl=

that is a picture of the engine. although not a great picture its something ill brb with more

[mipstien]

hoses that are disconnected are to the air filter, and there is one that goes to the oil that connects to the air filter.
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[mipstien]

disregard that yellow hose there it is just an extension while testing. it connects from the intake manifold to the distributor (back side)
but when i connected it to the front of the distributor it ran better????? why?

im also confused about the oil(oel) hose. in all the pictures it looks like it connects underneath the intake housing but my engine doesn't have that connector?

why does the distributor have 2 vacuum connects and only one has to be connected?

[avidfanjpl]

Ok. I see some things.

The PCV Valve is the OEL connection toward the distributor. Important connection. When connected it really lowers the idle. This needs a hose going to the manifold, but I am not that familiar with your model engine as I am with the 73 engines.

Another missing hose is the aux air valve hose that goes from near the drivers front (with a red wire coming out the bottom of the valve) over to the airbox, which you seem to maybe not have?

The aux air valve is important too, but go to Pelican Parts and start reading the whitepapers on the site. They even have all the hose paths laid out there.

I have printed them myself and they are pretty damn good.

I think someone here with your exact model can really help much more.

Best of luck!

John
avidfanjpl

[mipstien]

i have the aux air valve with both of its plugs in it. but one is disconnected from the filter housing.
as for the OEL lowering the idle i need to seriously raise the idle. it basically doesn't idle and just dies. i have a lot of pictures of the hose diagrams

http://members.rennlist.org/chuxter/914Hoses.html

like those and a few more... im jjust so lost i need to disconnect everything and start over i think (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
i'd still like to see an engine like mine with the smog equipment and without just to see what it should sorta look like.

[mipstien]

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[mipstien]

so i got to messing with this again today. i removed the AAR completely and the engine idles fine at barely over 1k. although it doesn't run any different when its hot or cold without the AAR.
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[mipstien]

aar valve shows the correct ohms and it seems to be opening and closing. although it obviously doesn't let as much air through when its on as when its completely off... anyone got any ideas? anything to try? its sittin the fridge right now to test how open it gets.
i just took it out and it definitely is opening and closing.
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[Tom]

You can look in the originality and history section for a lot of engine bay pics. Just remember that they will be stock.
Looking at your pictures I see a lot of rust. Have you checked out the longs and hell hole?
You may be better off droping the engine/trans and cleaning everything up good and rewiring/rehosing with the engine out of the bay. So much easier to work on. Then when you have it all sorted, it shouldn't be too much trouble to get the idle straightened out. This is what I did to mine as it wasn't running very well when I first got it. I found and repaired a lot of bad wires and connections, but when I pulled the tin I got my biggest surprise. Lots of "stuff" up under the tins blocking cooling air.
With everything I found repaired and the engine back in, it ran great. So those bad wires and connections really made a difference. Plus it looks really nice now and clean too.
While the engine is out, you can better address the rust issues.
Good luck,
Tom

[underthetire]

If you haven't found this yet http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetfund.htm

It helped me out a bunch when I was still messing with the stock system.

[detoxcowboy]

so i got to messing with this again today. i removed the AAR completely and the engine idles fine at barely over 1k. although it doesn't run any different when its hot or cold without the AAR.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Mipstien, I gave you all the links showing hose diagrams including the elbow w/ dual connections from the manifiold. Also a couple links to trouble shooting and if you read into those you will find out how to recondition your AAR valve.. and how to test it ect.. see below.. you have all thew info from your previous threads, I hope you read them , I feel fopr you trying to uncover and discover without yet knowing what is supposed to be there and what it is supposed to do.. see your previous posts for the links, here is a cut and paste from a portion of the links..
good luck..

Function: Provides additional air to the engine during warm-up to overcome drag due to internal friction of a cold engine.
Normal Value(s): about 14 ohms of resistance from the connector to the body of the unit.
Failure Modes
Stuck open: Fast idle. Check by removing input hose to the regulator after the car has been running for 10-15 minutes. If you feel suction on this line, the regulator is stuck open. See below for rebuild and rejuvenation procedures.
Stuck closed: Poor running (low idle) after cold start. Check on cold engine by removing the input hose immediately after starting. If you do not feel suction, the regulator is stuck closed. See below for rebuild and rejuvenation procedures.
Broken heater lead or heater coil: Engine stays at fast idle for a long time after starting (more than 10 minutes). Check by removing the regulator and grounding the case and applying +12V to the input lead. In a few minutes, if your heater is working, you should feel the base of the AAR getting warmer - eventually, it gets quite warm. If the lead is broken where it enters the AAR, you're out of luck. It is actually insulated through the crimped connector into the AAR - a really crappy design, as it's easy for the insulation to break down and short it, or for it simply to break off due to stress from handling. If it's broken right at the connector, you may be able to salvage it by rebuilding (see below)
Shorted heater lead or heater coil: Check this if you blow the 25A (red) fuse on the relay board every time you try to start the car. See below for rebuild procedures.
Notes: The regulator is open when cold, and closes over time as a heater inside the unit (+12V supply) acts on a bimetallic strip. The opening inside the AAR has a slot that starts off wide and gets narrow. The idle stays high while the wide part is open (~3-4 minutes), then drops off as the narrow part remains exposed (~10 minutes for fully closed). Even if the heater is non-functional, the engine heat will eventually close the regulator. Because the regulator is no longer available new or rebuilt, you will have to obtain a used unit or repair your own unit - you are on your own here!
Does Yours Close Too Fast?: If you'd like for the AAR to stay open longer, try adding 2.5 ohms (four 10 ohm/10W power resistors in parallel) in series with the heater. This will reduce the heater power from ~14W down to ~10W, and cause the AAR to close more slowly. Should add a few minutes to the fast idle part of the cycle. Please exercise caution - that resistor pack can get hot, make sure it is safely secured.
Rebuilding and Rejuvenation: These things are NLA and working units don't show up for sale very often. I recently sacrificed a frozen unit to figure out the best ways to revive them and/or rebuild them.
How does it work?: First, you have to understand how the AAR works inside. Click here to see a diagram of its guts. It's not so clear from the diagram, but the way this thing works is that in the top part of the unit, there's a cylinder with a slot cut in the side. The cylinder is open on the top, and rotates in the bore of the top part of the body. When the cylinder rotates, the slot moves past the opening in the side, so that air flows from the top port, through the open cylinder, through the slot, and out the side port. When the slot rotates away from the side port, air flow is shut off. The cylinder rotates because it's driven by a shaft on the bottom, that has a bimetallic strip connected to a slot cut in the bottom of the shaft. The other end of the bimetallic strip is secured by a screw to the body of the AAR. It's adjustable so that the AAR can be temperature calibrated. In the bottom of the AAR is a heating coil that warms the bimetallic strip when the car is running.
Rejuvenation: This is your best bet, if your heater is still working and the lead is in good condition. AAR's are exposed to all kinds of muck in the airflow path, and are often stuck. The bimetallic strip can't provide very much torque to turn the shaft, so the cylinder has to move freely in the bore. Remove the AAR from the car. Turn it upside down and flush the side port with penetrating lubricant (e.g. WD-40). Flush, flush, flush, and flush some more. Plug the top port, fill it up with penetrating lubricant, and let it sit upside down for at least a day. Clean it out, flush it a few more times, then try again. If it still doesn't open and close, repeat the procedure until you tire of doing it and give up, and proceed to the rebuild procedure.
Rebuilding: This is NOT a guaranteed process, take this on only as a last resort. Your first challenge is to get inside of the AAR. This is not an easy task. I have heard that you can "pop" the top of the AAR off by jamming a large round screwdriver in the side port, securing the base in a vice, and levering the top. Personally, from my tries at doing this, I suspect that you will instead break off the side port, and/or destroy the guts when it comes flying open, or chop you hands to pieces. Your call, several people have told me that they've done this and it works, I couldn't get it to work for me. An alternative procedure is to take a Dremel cut-off wheel (please use safety glasses, and perhaps, a full face shield), and to very carefully go around the perimeter of the flange on the body and cut it off, so that you're removing just the top part of the flange (it should form a ring). Your goal here is to leave a shoulder of the flange, so that you can epoxy the top back on when you're done. Good luck.

Assuming you're successful and haven't been fatally injured by this process, remove the top. You should see the ceramic insulator with the heating coil in the bottom of the unit. If yours is in good shape, DON'T TOUCH IT. Put it aside. If your heater lead is broken or your heater is burned out, you have to remove the ceramic part completely. I don't believe you can do this without destroying it, because the ground pin and the heater lead pins are riveted through. Before proceeding, try to open the crimp that's holding the heater lead on the bottom of the AAR as much as possible, so the wire can slide through. You can get the ceramic heater out by inverting the unit, then using an awl or a punch to punch-out the center rivet. Rip it all out and toss it. You will be replacing the heater with three small 5 ohm, 5 Watt rated, wire wound resistors in series. Arrange all three in the bottom of the unit, and secure them to the base with epoxy or JB weld. One end goes to the ground pin in the base, the other goes to a wire that exits the AAR through the port in the bottom. Set aside. BTW, I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS - Dave Darling said he did it and it works.

Next step is to get the cylinder freed up. If yours is really stuck tight, you will probably have to remove the top port to be able to extract it. First, mark the angle of the top port to the top assembly of the AAR with a marker or a piece of tape. Clamp the top, stick a round screwdriver into the top port, and lever it off the top of the AAR. You can press it back on later with a vice and peen the edge to make sure it's secure. You should now be able to see the top of the cylinder in the bore when looking in where the top port was attached. Below, you'll see that the bimetallic coil is held on by a small screw. Carefully mark the exact position of the slot where the screw is attached - this is the temperature calibration position, you'll need to attach it later to this exact spot. Remove the screw, and pull off the bimetallic coil, the other end is engaged in a slot in the shaft that drives the cylinder. Soak everything in penetrating lube - the shaft, cylinder, etc. Next, you'll notice a small pin in the shaft, that limits the rotation of the shaft, and that must pass through a key slot in the body of the AAR if you want to remove the cylinder. Stick a flat end screwdriver in the slot in the end of the shaft, and GENTLY try to turn the shaft. Won't budge, right? OK, here's what I did. Invert the top and gently tap on the bottom of the shaft with a hammer a couple of times. Not too hard - you'll break off the pin. Now, turn the unit back over, find a small round end tool (I used the butt of a scredriver), and use it to tap the cylinder back down into the bore. Repeat this process until you can start to turn the shaft. Once you can get it to rotate, move it to the position where the pin is lined up with the slot, and then drive it through, and remove the cylinder. You'll find the bore is full of rust and muck. Keep cleaning, lubing, and testing the cylinder in the bore until it moves with almost no effort.

Reassemble, I would press on top port AFTER I put the cylinder back in, but BEFORE, I put the bimetallic coil back on. Make certain you DO NOT use the shaft of the cylinder for a pressure point, push from the body of the unit with a vice. Peen the top to hold it in place. Reattach the bimetallic coil to the exact position you marked when removing it. Use high-temperature epoxy to form a complete seal between the top and bottom of the unit, and wait 24 hours before testing to make sure the epoxy is fully set. Congrats, you should have a fully-functional AAR!

[SirAndy]

A little cleaning wouldn't hurt either ...


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Andy

[mipstien]

im confused as to why you folks won't answer my questions. they are questions about WHY not how to.
i would like to know why my car idles perfect with the valve off whether hot or cold.
also want to know why putting the vacuum hose on the front of the distributor it runs smoother than on the back where it was intended to go?
i have read every single thing on the rennlist site. but im still confused which is why im asking questions. im not sure why everyone wants to send me to another web page every time i ask something its kinda frustrating when a straight answer is easier than pointing me down the road and having me walk there. i understand if you teach a man to fish, but i learned to fish. i have an actual question because the other sites, including searching on here for hours, has turned up no answer's to my questions.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/skull.gif)

and i cleaned the thing, the previous owner cleaned it. a lot of trial and error has already happened.

[mipstien]

and im sorry im frustrated and really don't like the way forums work sometimes.
also at this moment i do believe that my plug wires are off and the fireing order is obviously not right. i need to find out TDC and get the wires on correctly.

[BigDBass]

Hi,
Can't offer up any how or why, but can offer sympathy and encouragement... Hang in there. It'll be worth it in the end.

[underthetire]

im confused as to why you folks won't answer my questions. they are questions about WHY not how to.
i would like to know why my car idles perfect with the valve off whether hot or cold.
also want to know why putting the vacuum hose on the front of the distributor it runs smoother than on the back where it was intended to go?
i have read every single thing on the rennlist site. but im still confused which is why im asking questions. im not sure why everyone wants to send me to another web page every time i ask something its kinda frustrating when a straight answer is easier than pointing me down the road and having me walk there. i understand if you teach a man to fish, but i learned to fish. i have an actual question because the other sites, including searching on here for hours, has turned up no answer's to my questions.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/skull.gif)

and i cleaned the thing, the previous owner cleaned it. a lot of trial and error has already happened.

Don't get your panties in a bunch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Your AAR is stuck. It needs to come out and soak overnight in PB blater, or it's not getting voltage. Thats the first one.

Idle's better with the line on the front- it's advancing the distributor. Some cars have a line on both sides of the distributor, some only on the front. That is basic for any old car. So more learning to fish is in order. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[mipstien]

Hi,
Can't offer up any how or why, but can offer sympathy and encouragement... Hang in there. It'll be worth it in the end.

no doubt its my dream car and i can't wait. the car isn't the frustrating part :/
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