Engine lid hinge nut is stripped Options

[bandjoey]

What size would you drill and then tap the welded in nut to? Sure would be nice if there was a quick release pin for the engine lid. Thanks.

[URY914]

Is the the nut that is part of the "L" bracket?

[URY914]

Can't you drill it out and use a longer bolt and put a nut on the outside of the striped one?

[jt914-6]

Bill....the stock nut is a 6mm X 1.0 thread. Try running a tap that size in it first. The next metric size up would most likely be a 8mm which may be too big for the "L" bracket. If it won't tap out you might weld a 6mm X 1.0 nut on top of the stock one and use a longer bolt.....or replace the "L" bracket.....

[bandjoey]

Yes it's on the L bracket. I did the tap, but the nut is too far gone. Nothing longer can go in because the lid itself scrapes a couple of mm's over the welded nut when the lid opens. I guess I'll have to grind off the welded nut to make that work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Or.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I think I'll grind the squares off of a carrage bolt and jb weld that into the stripped nut and nut it from the bottom. It should have clearance, and at the worst, I'll be grinding off the original nut anyway.

Why isn't there a quick release hinge pin ($$Million dollar idea someone??) for the lid. It's really a pain to put it on and work under, after having the lid off for so long. Thanks guys.

[detoxcowboy]

Yes it's on the L bracket. I did the tap, but the nut is too far gone. Nothing longer can go in because the lid itself scrapes a couple of mm's over the welded nut when the lid opens. I guess I'll have to grind off the welded nut to make that work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Or.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I think I'll grind the squares off of a carrage bolt and jb weld that into the stripped nut. It should have clearance, and at the worst, I'll be grinding off the original nut anyway.

Why isn't there a quick release hinge pin ($$Million dollar idea someone??) for the lid. It's really a pain to put it on and work under, after having the lid off for so long. Thanks guys.

been ther done all the same you did, I used a through bolt with a nut and that got me through for a long time, you could grind off the old nut and weld another, or just get new brackets and weld those on. I bought new brackets, striped nut could be your only issue or not.. alot of times twice for me these brackets just fatigue and the metal on the firewall behind them does too..

[detoxcowboy]

Can't you drill it out and use a longer bolt and put a nut on the outside of the striped one?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[URY914]

Can't you drill it out and use a longer bolt and put a nut on the outside of the striped one?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[tradisrad]

I tapped mine with an M7 x 1.0 and got the bolt at the local hardwear store.

[bandjoey]

Ah Ha. There is a 7x1 I'll look at that first, if I have a 7 tap. Then one of the other great suggestions. Thanks Again for the ideas.

[tradisrad]

my tap is a craftsman

[bandjoey]

my tap is a craftsman

my banker is my wife
and my drug is #914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[sean_v8_914]

slot the lid tabs. place stud on bracket (car side) attach with wing nut.

[McMark]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 7mm x 1.00 is the way to go.

I've never modified an engine lid for 'quick release' because I've never felt it was necessary.

[ClayPerrine]

I have a 7mm x 1.0 tap you can borrow.

[realred914]

Bill....the stock nut is a 6mm X 1.0 thread. Try running a tap that size in it first. The next metric size up would most likely be a 8mm which may be too big for the "L" bracket. If it won't tap out you might weld a 6mm X 1.0 nut on top of the stock one and use a longer bolt.....or replace the "L" bracket.....

You can buy 7 mm bolts too, Id do that first, I think I did one of my cars with an english sized screw, maybe it was like a #10-32 or #12 or so, I forget. just find the next closest diameter screw/bolt and tap to that size. yes the length gets in the way. no big deal, with the next diameter tap, it works fine, no biggy!!!

have fun

[kpfoten]

I just fixed mine last week--took my dremel, sectioned the nut with a disc into like 8 segments and popped them off the l-bracked with a needle nose pliers. Then I put a new nut/bolt in. Took like 10 minutes, although threading the bolt into the nut is a PITA. There is not much room to work with--I was too lazy to set my welder up and weld a nut on the l-bracket, but oh well.. Good luck!

[detoxcowboy]

7mm is available but not at your local hardware store, you may have to get it online, for some reason 7mm gets skipped everywhere I go, 6mm 8mm no 7mm, tooke me a stroke of luck to get 7mm nuts for the clutch cable

[realred914]

7mm is available but not at your local hardware store, you may have to get it online, for some reason 7mm gets skipped everywhere I go, 6mm 8mm no 7mm, tooke me a stroke of luck to get 7mm nuts for the clutch cable

Kragens auto parts has 7 mm bolts in teh blister packs on the rotating parts display rack. true the 7 mm is not the most common, but it can be found try automotive parts stores for this. I much rather you tap to a 7 mm than an 8 mmm, that will give you a better looking bolt fit and give you one more extra chance if it ever strips again! You may not get the length that is right, but a long 7mm bolt can be cut donw in length.

good lucky

[bandjoey]

Will a 7mm tap go through without drilling the hole to tap size? If not what's your drill size recommendation? Thanks Clay. I'll call U if my set doesn't have the tap.