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> The restorers holy grail.... or not?, Galvanized 914's.
Would you buy one? Fully repaired and hot dip galved, ready to paint.
In a heart beat I hate rust, and want to drive year-round.
Damn, I'd pay 5k for a galvied, epoxy primed tub [ 26 ] ** [56.52%]
Thats cool, but I'll shoot my own epoxy if I can have it for 4k [ 2 ] ** [4.35%]
I'm a puss and will NEVER EVER, drive wet. It's only worth 3k to me [ 2 ] ** [4.35%]
You're a dumbass, you can't hot dip a 914 tub! [ 10 ] ** [21.74%]
I wan't one but it's only worth .......to me. [ 6 ] ** [13.04%]
Total Votes: 46
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rsrguy3
post May 26 2010, 12:22 PM
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This is a purely hypothetical thread. You see I love my teener, and, I'd like to use it as a daily, cause I'm sure I can get 35-40 mpg from it. I live in northern Utah.... so It would see it all, heat, rain, AND snow, I'll be using a set of the new diamond shaped studded Hakka's for winter. Nokian
I get it, some of you think that this is a stupid thought, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) but I'm one of those sicko's that loves snow driving, so I'll deal with the ridicule. Have all the fun with me you can on this one, turn it loose. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Oh, If you don't think it will work, why?
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6freak
post May 26 2010, 12:32 PM
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I love driving in the snow as well, easy to get sideways (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) ...but not in my 914-6.....i went with #1
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Bruce Hinds
post May 26 2010, 12:41 PM
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I love it! Drive it man! That's what it was built for. It bugs the whits out of me to hear all the pussies say "I don't drive it in the rain." The're missing all the fun! The reason they were built was for German weather. I drove mine all year long when we were in Colorado, but they don't use salt on the road. I love driving it when it's slippery, it's just too much fun.
There's one town as you head west of Denver and just get back into the mountains that has ice racing each year. Some of those nuts actually put bolts in the tires for the studs and tear up the ice. I'd always wanted to do that with the teener.
Go for it!
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McMark
post May 26 2010, 12:44 PM
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Add some fender 'mud flaps' and pull them each spring to clean out the crud.
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pete-stevers
post May 26 2010, 01:04 PM
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really neat idea...i wonder what all is involved in the galvanizing process?? how many tanks, what chemicals and the likes....
I think it would be the cats meow for a serious resto!!
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rsrguy3
post May 26 2010, 01:05 PM
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So, whats it worth to you?
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JeffBowlsby
post May 26 2010, 01:40 PM
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Hot dip galvanizing, even if you could find a facility with tanks large enough, will warp the body panels.
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McMark
post May 26 2010, 02:24 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That's what I've heard from welding shops that galvanize huge gates.
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pete-stevers
post May 26 2010, 02:45 PM
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porsche did it...what type of process did they use?
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McMark
post May 26 2010, 02:51 PM
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From this thread on Pelican

QUOTE
These panels were galvanized when the steel was still flat. The panels were then formed. Normal galvanizing would warp steel thin enough for body panels beyond recognition. Also, any air pockets between welded together components become very dangerous when galvanizing. Large vent holes would need to be placed wherever there was an enclosed volume in a built unibody.
-Scott
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Scott S
post May 26 2010, 02:52 PM
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QUOTE(Bruce Hinds @ May 26 2010, 10:41 AM) *

I love it! Drive it man! That's what it was built for. It bugs the whits out of me to hear all the pussies say "I don't drive it in the rain." The're missing all the fun! The reason they were built was for German weather. I drove mine all year long when we were in Colorado, but they don't use salt on the road. I love driving it when it's slippery, it's just too much fun.
There's one town as you head west of Denver and just get back into the mountains that has ice racing each year. Some of those nuts actually put bolts in the tires for the studs and tear up the ice. I'd always wanted to do that with the teener.
Go for it!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Georgetown. I am one of those nuts. Burned up 2 craftsman drills bolting a set of junk yard tires for my old GTI back in the 90's.... GREAT fun! All the events I did in those days were under the SCCA.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Building a "new" 914 would be really fun - gotta have a flared version tho'!! I would pay 3-4k for a totally brand new, galv and primered shell...
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Rand
post May 26 2010, 03:34 PM
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I've seen plenty of rusty galvanized metal. On the other hand really well-sealed paint works fine over non-galvanized. The big rust issues 914s had shouldn't happen again because they should be repaired well, painted well, and a modern sealed-battery used so acid doesn't eat the paint and then the metal.

Then keep everything clean and keep a good eye out for signs of breached (scratched, cracked, etc) paint, or rust. If the paint is breached, even galvanized will rust. If the paint is stuck tight on well-prepared metal, it won't rust.

Just my $.02 before exchange rate.
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JamesM
post May 26 2010, 04:03 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ May 26 2010, 11:40 AM) *

Hot dip galvanizing, even if you could find a facility with tanks large enough, will warp the body panels.



I am curious to know if anyone has ever tried this? The reason i ask is because after a quick google search i find cases of people having hot dipped large chassis pieces of other cars without issue. Now i understand that other cars are not 914's but my thoughts on it are you never know until you try. I am all for experimenting to find new solutions so if you want to do testing on the 75 tub in my driveway its all yours, and if it turns into a twisted pile of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) at least then we can say its been attempted.

Check out the pic at the bottom of this thread...

http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t...lvanizing+frame

doesn't look to warped to me though they do mention letting it air cool rather then quenching it. Maybe there is a trick to it?

Another thread on a lotus forum that might have other options to look into...
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/elan-f14/a...sis-t19847.html




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JamesM
post May 26 2010, 04:13 PM
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more...

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f7/so...vanizing-23440/
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veltror
post May 26 2010, 04:47 PM
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From my thread you will see that the amount of metal that is being put back into my car is all galvanised so i am nearly there...
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SirAndy
post May 26 2010, 08:05 PM
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QUOTE(rsrguy3 @ May 26 2010, 11:22 AM) *

I'm one of those sicko's that loves snow driving

Any old VW and Porsche was build to handle in the snow. There's plenty of snow to go around in Germany. I learned car-control by driving on snow and ice.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1135137096.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1135137154.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1135137203.jpg)

Attached Image

Attached Image
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rsrguy3
post May 26 2010, 08:42 PM
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Now Andy.... that's what I'm talking about!
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rsrguy3
post May 26 2010, 08:48 PM
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We'll be cutting up James 75 to experiment this week. We have a local galvanizer that has the facilities to do a whole car. We'll do a door and some other sections for testing first. The applicator in the town I used to live in has done it to Land Cruisers in the past, and says the finished product was stunning. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) As far as other options are concerned, I'm not having a lot of luck finding E-coat applicators, any ideas?
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charliew
post May 26 2010, 09:50 PM
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If you are cutting a car up. Are you guys interested in selling me the trunk pieces that go between the rear shock towers back to the tranny support? I want some to try to add the box for the starter and turbo but I want to try and use the same suff so it will look the same all over. I think I will use the left side of the floor that is flat to replace the round plug on the right. I want the upright part also the complete width between the towers.

The panels will probably need to be acid dipped first right on the parts you are going to try? Before getting dipped? This is a good idea if it works but I know painting over galvanize is hard to get perfect results. You've seen all the trucks that have peeled to the galvanize right?

I built a gal tin storage shed and found out the specs for the neighborhood called for painted steel so I painted it. About ten years later it is mostly coming off. I treated it with vinegar and used kiltz and then rustoleum but it still didn't stick. As it started peeling it rusted pretty bad where it held the moisture till the paint fell away. Also I stacked some gal tin and it got wet and really rusted bad and was only stacked about 3 months.
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Tom_T
post May 27 2010, 12:55 AM
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You'd also have to cut the longs open, pull out the heater tubes/etc., then galv everything including the longs, then reinstall the heater tubes & re-weld the outer longs back on - cuz you'll want heat driving in snow/cold & they'll fry in there in the galv tank.

While galvanizing seems attractive option, as Charlie & others have said above - it also has it's drawbacks & isn't a perfect barrier to rusting.

IIRC from Sir Andy, that it was not until the 76 or 77 MY when Porsche started dipping the finished unitized bodies into Zinc Phosphate for rust protection, but I believe that was a "cold dip" process, & our 914s missed it since the last 76 MY was built in 75. Read below on this doc from Jeff Bowlsby's site -

Attached Image

Let's see your test run & how the primer & paint adheres.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

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