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rsrguy3 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 136 Joined: 4-April 09 From: Utah Member No.: 10,234 Region Association: None ![]() |
This is a purely hypothetical thread. You see I love my teener, and, I'd like to use it as a daily, cause I'm sure I can get 35-40 mpg from it. I live in northern Utah.... so It would see it all, heat, rain, AND snow, I'll be using a set of the new diamond shaped studded Hakka's for winter. Nokian
I get it, some of you think that this is a stupid thought, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) but I'm one of those sicko's that loves snow driving, so I'll deal with the ridicule. Have all the fun with me you can on this one, turn it loose. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Oh, If you don't think it will work, why? |
6freak |
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#2
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MR.C ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,740 Joined: 19-March 08 From: Tacoma WA Member No.: 8,829 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
I love driving in the snow as well, easy to get sideways (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) ...but not in my 914-6.....i went with #1
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Bruce Hinds |
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#3
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V-8 madness ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 748 Joined: 27-December 06 From: Port Orchard, WA Member No.: 7,391 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
I love it! Drive it man! That's what it was built for. It bugs the whits out of me to hear all the pussies say "I don't drive it in the rain." The're missing all the fun! The reason they were built was for German weather. I drove mine all year long when we were in Colorado, but they don't use salt on the road. I love driving it when it's slippery, it's just too much fun.
There's one town as you head west of Denver and just get back into the mountains that has ice racing each year. Some of those nuts actually put bolts in the tires for the studs and tear up the ice. I'd always wanted to do that with the teener. Go for it! |
McMark |
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#4
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
Add some fender 'mud flaps' and pull them each spring to clean out the crud.
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pete-stevers |
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#5
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saved from fire! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,648 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
really neat idea...i wonder what all is involved in the galvanizing process?? how many tanks, what chemicals and the likes....
I think it would be the cats meow for a serious resto!! |
rsrguy3 |
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#6
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 136 Joined: 4-April 09 From: Utah Member No.: 10,234 Region Association: None ![]() |
So, whats it worth to you?
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JeffBowlsby |
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#7
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914 Wiring Harnesses & Beekeeper ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,897 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Hot dip galvanizing, even if you could find a facility with tanks large enough, will warp the body panels.
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McMark |
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#8
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That's what I've heard from welding shops that galvanize huge gates.
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pete-stevers |
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#9
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saved from fire! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,648 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
porsche did it...what type of process did they use?
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McMark |
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#10
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
From this thread on Pelican
QUOTE These panels were galvanized when the steel was still flat. The panels were then formed. Normal galvanizing would warp steel thin enough for body panels beyond recognition. Also, any air pockets between welded together components become very dangerous when galvanizing. Large vent holes would need to be placed wherever there was an enclosed volume in a built unibody. -Scott |
Scott S |
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#11
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Small Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,698 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Colorado Member No.: 633 ![]() |
I love it! Drive it man! That's what it was built for. It bugs the whits out of me to hear all the pussies say "I don't drive it in the rain." The're missing all the fun! The reason they were built was for German weather. I drove mine all year long when we were in Colorado, but they don't use salt on the road. I love driving it when it's slippery, it's just too much fun. There's one town as you head west of Denver and just get back into the mountains that has ice racing each year. Some of those nuts actually put bolts in the tires for the studs and tear up the ice. I'd always wanted to do that with the teener. Go for it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Georgetown. I am one of those nuts. Burned up 2 craftsman drills bolting a set of junk yard tires for my old GTI back in the 90's.... GREAT fun! All the events I did in those days were under the SCCA. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Building a "new" 914 would be really fun - gotta have a flared version tho'!! I would pay 3-4k for a totally brand new, galv and primered shell... |
Rand |
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#12
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Cross Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,410 Joined: 8-February 05 From: OR Member No.: 3,573 Region Association: None ![]() |
I've seen plenty of rusty galvanized metal. On the other hand really well-sealed paint works fine over non-galvanized. The big rust issues 914s had shouldn't happen again because they should be repaired well, painted well, and a modern sealed-battery used so acid doesn't eat the paint and then the metal.
Then keep everything clean and keep a good eye out for signs of breached (scratched, cracked, etc) paint, or rust. If the paint is breached, even galvanized will rust. If the paint is stuck tight on well-prepared metal, it won't rust. Just my $.02 before exchange rate. |
JamesM |
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#13
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,080 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() |
Hot dip galvanizing, even if you could find a facility with tanks large enough, will warp the body panels. I am curious to know if anyone has ever tried this? The reason i ask is because after a quick google search i find cases of people having hot dipped large chassis pieces of other cars without issue. Now i understand that other cars are not 914's but my thoughts on it are you never know until you try. I am all for experimenting to find new solutions so if you want to do testing on the 75 tub in my driveway its all yours, and if it turns into a twisted pile of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) at least then we can say its been attempted. Check out the pic at the bottom of this thread... http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t...lvanizing+frame doesn't look to warped to me though they do mention letting it air cool rather then quenching it. Maybe there is a trick to it? Another thread on a lotus forum that might have other options to look into... http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/elan-f14/a...sis-t19847.html |
JamesM |
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#14
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,080 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() |
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veltror |
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#15
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 930 Joined: 27-April 08 From: Potters Bar Herts UK Member No.: 8,978 Region Association: None ![]() |
From my thread you will see that the amount of metal that is being put back into my car is all galvanised so i am nearly there...
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SirAndy |
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#16
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Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 42,199 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I'm one of those sicko's that loves snow driving Any old VW and Porsche was build to handle in the snow. There's plenty of snow to go around in Germany. I learned car-control by driving on snow and ice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1135137096.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1135137154.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2-1135137203.jpg) ![]() ![]() |
rsrguy3 |
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#17
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 136 Joined: 4-April 09 From: Utah Member No.: 10,234 Region Association: None ![]() |
Now Andy.... that's what I'm talking about!
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rsrguy3 |
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#18
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 136 Joined: 4-April 09 From: Utah Member No.: 10,234 Region Association: None ![]() |
We'll be cutting up James 75 to experiment this week. We have a local galvanizer that has the facilities to do a whole car. We'll do a door and some other sections for testing first. The applicator in the town I used to live in has done it to Land Cruisers in the past, and says the finished product was stunning. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) As far as other options are concerned, I'm not having a lot of luck finding E-coat applicators, any ideas?
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charliew |
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#19
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 ![]() |
If you are cutting a car up. Are you guys interested in selling me the trunk pieces that go between the rear shock towers back to the tranny support? I want some to try to add the box for the starter and turbo but I want to try and use the same suff so it will look the same all over. I think I will use the left side of the floor that is flat to replace the round plug on the right. I want the upright part also the complete width between the towers.
The panels will probably need to be acid dipped first right on the parts you are going to try? Before getting dipped? This is a good idea if it works but I know painting over galvanize is hard to get perfect results. You've seen all the trucks that have peeled to the galvanize right? I built a gal tin storage shed and found out the specs for the neighborhood called for painted steel so I painted it. About ten years later it is mostly coming off. I treated it with vinegar and used kiltz and then rustoleum but it still didn't stick. As it started peeling it rusted pretty bad where it held the moisture till the paint fell away. Also I stacked some gal tin and it got wet and really rusted bad and was only stacked about 3 months. |
Tom_T |
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#20
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TMI.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,321 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
You'd also have to cut the longs open, pull out the heater tubes/etc., then galv everything including the longs, then reinstall the heater tubes & re-weld the outer longs back on - cuz you'll want heat driving in snow/cold & they'll fry in there in the galv tank.
While galvanizing seems attractive option, as Charlie & others have said above - it also has it's drawbacks & isn't a perfect barrier to rusting. IIRC from Sir Andy, that it was not until the 76 or 77 MY when Porsche started dipping the finished unitized bodies into Zinc Phosphate for rust protection, but I believe that was a "cold dip" process, & our 914s missed it since the last 76 MY was built in 75. Read below on this doc from Jeff Bowlsby's site - ![]() Let's see your test run & how the primer & paint adheres. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
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