I thought 245's on 16x8 Fuchs were supposed to fit?, using 911 offset (10.6 mm) Options

[tomeric914]

Tires - 245/50R16 BFG G-Force Sports
Rear brakes - 911 vented
Hubs - stock 914/4 drilled and studded for 5-bolt

ok, so the flares are on the car but not painted yet. Time to fit the wheels and tires that I just got mounted and balanced. They clear, but this is way too close for comfort. I've got maybe 2-3 mm.

I could cut the flange down like the narrow body cars (that would get me another 10mm) but though I should ask first. Are the rest of you fat rear tire folks with factory rear flares in the same boat?

As the suspension compresses, the tire moves inward. I'd just like a little more margin for error.

[rick 918-S]

Trim or roll the flange. You'll be fine.

[ConeDodger]

This reminds me of something I keep hearing from our flare experienced peeps. You should have your tires and wheels before you mount your flares. You just need to roll your fenders like Rick said. Camber grows more negative as the suspension deflects upward.

[carr914]

Trim & Roll

I personally like 225s on an 8" wheel - that would have given you the room

Also Steel Flares ( Factory or AA) will not allow the same meats as a F/G flare

[tomeric914]

Thanks all! I will trim the flare and get everything in epoxy this morning.

[ClayPerrine]

First ... the 951 wheels (944 offset) fit better.

Second ... The tire size should be 245/45/16 to get them to clear the fender.

I have a couple inches on the rear with the 944 wheels.


The 245/50 BFGs are a little fatter (I had them at first) than the Bridgestones that I have now.

[siverson]

> You should have your tires and wheels before you mount your flares.

Yup!

-Steve

[SirAndy]

Thanks all! I will trim the flare and get everything in epoxy this morning.

Don't trim. Roll the lip instead. That way, you don't lose the strength that lip is adding to the shape of the flare ...

As for the wheels, make sure your suspension is settled. Did you roll the car around a couple of feet? Do you have all the weight in the car? Engine, gas, full interior? Is the rear already aligned? Camber set?
All these will affect your tire fitting.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)


And for the love of 914s, get some spacers for those front wheels!!!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

[PanelBilly]

At least you found out before the car was any farther along. I didn't think about it until the body work was complete and ready for paint. When I rolled the edges it changed the panels ever so slightly and I needed to rework them so they would be perfectly flat again.

Keep in mind I go overboard on everything. I have some photos of the process, but they're at home. I'll try to find them tonight and add them to the thread

[tomeric914]

Don't trim. Roll the lip instead. That way, you don't lose the strength that lip is adding to the shape of the flare ...

Actually, you lose the strength when the lip is rolled too and a pocket is made to retain water. The depth of the lip defines the strength. I trimmed it this morning. It'll be just fine.

As for the wheels, make sure your suspension is settled. Did you roll the car around a couple of feet? Do you have all the weight in the car? Engine, gas, full interior? Is the rear already aligned? Camber set?
All these will affect your tire fitting.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Yes to all of the above and put additional weight in the trunk and pushed down more and...

And for the love of 914s, get some spacers for those front wheels!!!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

LOL, yes.

[tomeric914]

This reminds me of something I keep hearing from our flare experienced peeps. You should have your tires and wheels before you mount your flares. You just need to roll your fenders like Rick said. Camber grows more negative as the suspension deflects upward.

I did have my tires and wheels beforehand and knew full well that it was going to be close. I figured it was better to ask first and make sure there wasn't something obvious that I missed!

[Speedster Mike]

Tom,
If those were fiberglass flairs I would just grind off a 1/4 " of the lip for just a little extra room...They look like they need to be smoothed up anyway. If they are medal I would still consider grinding off 1/4". You still have a lot of fender lip left. That should'nt weaken the flair. Get the car off the jack stands and make sure you roll it back and forth at least 15 feet in both directions to make sure the car is a normal sitting height. I have GT flairs also and actually have got 16x9s fuchs on back with 1/4" spacers to move mine out a little more and clearence is fine.....understand (every) application is different! Good luck.
Mike

[charliew]

I disagree that trimming is as strong as rolling. If that were true why are there c perlins used in structural metal buildings and not just a c channel? The reason the flare is not rolled is the added cost of the production. But there is the chance that the curl might hold water for a few minutes but not much longer. I guess if you drive in mud it could be a problem but I do wash the mud out from under my 4x4 after each muddy excursion.

[Eric_Shea]

Roll it.

I keep telling people how close 8's are in the 911 offset...

[tomeric914]

I disagree that trimming is as strong as rolling. If that were true why are there c perlins used in structural metal buildings and not just a c channel? The reason the flare is not rolled is the added cost of the production.

Purlins are 'C' or 'Z' shaped so that they have a bearing surface against the rafter. It also allows the purlin to be bolted, screwed, welded to the rafter.

The strength of the flange is influenced primarily by the depth of the web. This is also referred to as its moment of inertia. The higher the moment of inertia, the more the shape will resist bending.

The 914 front fenders are rolled from the factory, the rears are trimmed. Rolling would have lead to other deformation problems with the flare. Trimming avoided those problems.

[tomeric914]

Roll it.

I keep telling people how close 8's are in the 911 offset...

Hey Eric, you didn't tell me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

My understanding was that the 911 offset rim was the one to use with flares. I agree that the 944 offset would have solved the problem on the flare side, but it also would have pushed the rim closer by 8mm to the inner fender which could be a problem under full compression. As the suspension compresses, the wheel and tire move further inward.

Wheel widths, offsets and backspacing can be found here http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/WheelWts.html

[PanelBilly]

Here the inside view of the lip rolled over.

[kconway]

Roll it.

I keep telling people how close 8's are in the 911 offset...

Yup, real close with 225 x fatty 60 series.

[rfuerst911sc]

On my GT clone with AA metal flares I have 911 offset 8 inch Fuchs with 245/45x16 Yoko's. I have aprox. 1/8th inch clearance to the non rolled lip. I see no issue on mine. The fronts on the other hand can probably be spaced out at least 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch with 205/55 x 16 on 7's.

[Eric_Shea]

I see no issue on mine.

If you have 1/8th inch of clearance you will! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) Also, 45's vs. 50's and different mfgs are all different.

but it also would have pushed the rim closer by 8mm to the inner fender which could be a problem under full compression. As the suspension compresses, the wheel and tire move further inward.

8mm you've got... compression or no compression. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net-1110-1277241776.1.jpg)

I would definately NOT like 1/8th of an inch though... rolled or not. (I prefer rolled vs, tire cutters though) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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